Barrelback 20'

[billy c]

Will
Looks like you are Marking up rudder shaft and tiller in the boat and as Doug mentioned in this post above, heading off to find Bill's machinist
Exciting times with that PCM coming!

Billy

[Bill Edmundson]

...... A bag of chips and a biscuit is a pretty good price.

Especially since I could expense them! They did the shaft key also.

Bill

[jenko]

I drilled a series of holes and then filed square for the keyway and used a round file for the bolt relief.

[Jimbob]

Hi Will,
I just filed a flat spot. Easy to do. Don't think it needs a key. It ain't going anywhere.
Jim

[slug]

On my application in the Gentry, the bolt and its accurately machined hole determine the clearances that maintain the rudder at the correct position in the keel, otherwise it can "go somewhere".....to the bottom!

Doug

[Roberta]

I marked mine up to locate the correct height and position and had a local machine shop cut the keyway and bore the shaft for the bolt in the tiller. Not very expensive and they did a proper job. Slug is absolutely right. You don't want that very expensive rudder to go to the bottom. With the stresses placed on the rudder on our larger boats, you really shouldn't rely on just the bolt to maintain the orientation of the rudder to the tiller.

Roberta

[alycat]

Thanks guys for the responses!!! I am going to mark it it and get it keyed and drilled.

Another note, do you guys recommend 4200 or 5200 for the sealing of shaft log, strut and rudder?? I was leaning towards the 4200 just because at some point it could be removed if needed.

And another announcement, the engine came yesterday, so I am trying to figure out how to get it in the boat!!

[Roberta]

A true thing of beauty!!! WOW!!! I used an engine lift with a chain fall hoist hooked on the boom. The chain fall allows slow and smooth raising and lowering. You do need to be mindful of clearances. I barely made it over the sides as the whole thing does hang pretty low. Rafters and a chain fall works, but strong rafters are needed and the boat on dollies is needed. A gantry setup with a chain fall is also good if the gantry has wheels or the boat on dollies.

Roberta

[billy c]

My cat helped me with mine

[FFRCOBRA]

Billy- It's always nice to have good help.
Roberta- total agree on the chain hoist. It's what I used as well. Makes a nice easy decent into the boat. I also used an engine leveler. Adds space between the engine and chain hoist but I was hanging from a rafter so I had the space.
Will- nice engine! I have a similar photo. Also on the chain hoist.







Craig

[alycat]

That is a nice helper you have there!!!... Hard to find good help!! It is a very nice engine. I am trying to figure out the motor mounts. The engine is going to sit at a 13 deg angle. The mounts have some travel, but I think you would position it in almost the right position and then fine tune. Did you pre-position your inside mounts? And I suppose the mounts need to be level, not at an angle?? Any tips I will surely take!!

I have a friend of mine who has a business with a overhead shop crane, i am seeing about using.... Since the boat is sitting on the trailer and not a cradle, it is pretty high in the air.... So that is posing some problems with using an engine hoist, and I am not sure my garage rafters (2/4's) would support the weight.

[FFRCOBRA]

Yeah, my rafters are 2x10 or 2x12. I shared between two rafters and also had some 4x4 posts on each side of the boat so the span of the rafters wasn't more than 7-8'. Worked okay but a commercial shop would be better. On the trailer makes it a cinch to get there too.

Are you sure the engine sits at a 13 degree angle? One of the reasons I chose that engine and trans was the output shaft was at a downward angle right out of the transmission. My engine sits pretty darn level in my boat. This is the best pic I can find here at work. It shows the motor beds (chunky lighter colored blocks) were exactly parallel with the stringers resting on two frame members :

[alycat]

I have the 71c velevet drive, there is not an angle built in.

[Roberta]

Yup, a 71C will require the engine to be mounted at the same angle as the prop shaft. Our 8 degree down angle transmissions allow us to reduce that angle by the 8 degrees. I do lose some clearance as the Liberty A projects down more than the 71C causing me to raise the motor up an inch or two.

Roberta

[billy c]

Will-
that is a pretty engine. yes with the 71C you have a straight line to the prop shaft. ...Not a bad thing in the barrelback where you lose depth quickly as you go toward the stern. I found the clearance for the engine hatch covers is better if the engine does run at an angle as drawn in the plans.
I had my boat on the trailer also when the engine went in. it does make the lift pretty high. you can take the wheels off the trailer and block the axle which will gain you a few inches. access to the shop crane would be ideal for shoehorning the engine into the compartment. if your engine mounts have a little extra length to them, you can position the engine forward or aft once in the boat.
Billy