20ft Texas Barrel

A forum for contacting other builders of Ken Hankinson designs. These designs are now a part of the Glen-L family.

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Bill Edmundson » Thu Aug 10, 2017 7:06 am

Matt

Cut the sheet in half. I cut my strips long ways. But, up on the bow I did a few cross grain. They seemed to take the twist a bit easier. I'm not really sure that it matters as long as you're consistent. I did the same as you and shaped the pieces with my trusty bench belt sander.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
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jenko
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby jenko » Thu Aug 10, 2017 7:18 am

I ripped all my sheets at 4'' and as Bill said had to go down to 2'' at the bow .
I set up the table saw . Got my son to help and did all the ripping in one go

TomB
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby TomB » Thu Aug 10, 2017 7:30 am

Matt,

Ripping an 8' sheet would be a hassle! Break the sheet down first. If the pieces you need are, say 6"x36", cut 36" off the end of the sheet and then rip down to 6" so you would get 8 pieces, about 6" wide and 36" long with the grain showing end to end.

The word you are looking for is "spiling". I'm sure Google can tell you all about it. It is the shaping of the edge of a board to match up with its neighbor on a complex shape, the "slight banana shape". There are probably more ways to do spiling than there are builders. Stand one board next to the board already installed and use a compass to mark a line representing a uniform gap between boards and then cut to the line so the two board match up. Others just use a piece of wood riding alone the edge of the installed board and a pencil to replace the compass. I use a block plane laying on the bench to keep the edge square and take a little off by eye. For most of the hull, you can trace the last spile on the next board and get really close.

You'll get the hang of it.

Tom

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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby PeterG » Thu Aug 10, 2017 7:49 am

Just me, but I would have found it a hassle to cut 6" strips across a sheet of plywood instead of ripping lengthwise :lol:

Seriously, Bill had it right, you can cut the plywood sheets down to manageable size like 4' x 4' and rip 6" strips (or 4" or 3") as needed. It seems 4' long strips will work great for your hull sides and bottom. You've done a lot of work so far, but I agree with Billy C that you may want to remove the installed strips and start over to keep from fighting with rippled planking later. I hate rework but sometimes time spent fixing stuff now eases migraine headaches and aggravation later. You should look at Billy C's Belle Isle project (his posts have the link) and look at Mark Bronkalla's Monaco project: http://www.bronkalla.com/index_boat.html

Scribing as slug suggested means placing the strip your fitting near the one that's installed, leaving a small gap, lay the strip flat against the battens without pushing into place. Set the compass equal to the widest part of that gap. Then put the point of the compass against the edge of the installed strip and the pencil on the strip you're fitting, draw/transfer the shape of the installed edge along the new strip. Sand the new strip to that line and it should fit very close. Use this for each and every strip you install. Sounds like fun, right? You'll get the hang of it quickly and start cranking out those strips in no time.
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby ToddM » Thu Aug 10, 2017 7:50 am

Hercdrvr wrote:Help me with my technique.

Slug posted to use a compass and scribe technique, I don't get it, how did everyone Custom fit each plank?

Thanks for the advice,
Matt B


Temporarily install the next plank as close to the last plank as possible. Theoretically, the two planks should touch at two points or one point. Set your compass spread to the width of gap between the two planks where the gap is largest. Then, run your compass from one end to the other with the pencil line drawn on the temporarily installed plank. Uninstall the temporarily installed plank and cut, plane, sand to the line. The new planed edge on the plank should be a mirror edge to the edge on the installed plank. If you want to see it done, go on Youtube and look up, scribing molding, or scribing baseboard, or scribing cabinets, or maybe scribing planking.

After a few planks, start planing or sanding your line so that the outward edge of the to be installed plank is just a hair acute, rather than 90. That way, if the edge is not sanded as a perfect mirror, the next take will be easier and more accurate.

A belt sander is great for taking gross amounts of material, but for the last 1/16 inch or so, you might want to try a block plane. It takes awhile getting used to, but it is much easier to be accurate and sure with a block plane than a belt sander.

edit: Haven't watched it, but here is a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yrqj_W1z_wM

another edit: I have since watched the video, and one thing the builder does in the video that I would NOT do is screw into the battens without first drilling a pilot hole.

last edit, I promise: I have never scribed material on a boat. I have never built or worked on a boat. The scribing process described above is my experience on cabinets and other woodworking projects, but I am assuming, (look out), that the process and results are the same.

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DrBryanJ
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby DrBryanJ » Thu Aug 10, 2017 9:02 am

Matt, Another way to match the edges is to use a router. I like a small trim router with a thin straight bit. I made a small fence that would ride along the edge I want to copy. Clamp the piece you need to trim in position and run the router between the two pieces. Just make sure you have the fence against the good edge not the edge you want to trim. (Don't ask how I know that :oops: :oops: ) I have a few photos in my posts under modified malahini. Page 4 and 5 I think.
Bryan

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My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."

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billy c
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby billy c » Thu Aug 10, 2017 10:13 am

Lots of those strips to go on and many need only a little adjustment. Block plane is the quickest as long as you keep it in your tool pouch so you don't spend hours looking for it.
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Hercdrvr
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Hercdrvr » Thu Aug 10, 2017 1:21 pm

Ok, great info everyone!! I think I found the problem, as I fit each piece I'm only holding it against the previous piece to shape it and not clamping it down to conform to the hull. So what fits holding it in place distorts when I staple it down.

I'll tear off the wonkie ones and redo them. I have no problem taking a couple steps back, it's all part of the process.

Nice to have your experience following along and backing me up when I need help.
Matt B

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Bill Edmundson » Thu Aug 10, 2017 1:54 pm

Matt

You'll return it to somebody in the future.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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Jimbob
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Jimbob » Thu Aug 10, 2017 3:26 pm

I'm a little late to the party, but here are some pictures of how I fitted each piece and the tools that I used.
If there was a lot to trim, I used the bandsaw first, and then finished up with the block plane. If you look closely at the picture where I scribed the line, you will see that the new piece is tacked into place to hold it while I drew the line.
Jim
Attachments
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Last edited by Jimbob on Thu Aug 10, 2017 3:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Jim Neeley
Sacramento, CA

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Jimbob
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Jimbob » Thu Aug 10, 2017 3:34 pm

Don't feel bad about fixing your problem. As bill says, make it a miraculous recovery.
Here is one of my big screw ups. Fortunately I caught it early. I had to shape the underlying battens and sheer clamp, and reinstall the plywood.
Anyway, these are some of my favorite pictures.
Jim
Attachments
20141005_165550.jpg
The fixit. I used scrap pieces to align the edges whenever I added planks.
20141004_134439.jpg
The screw up with the planks removed, before reshaping of the underlying structure.
Jim Neeley
Sacramento, CA

ToddM
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby ToddM » Tue Aug 15, 2017 8:09 am

DrBryanJ wrote:Matt, Another way to match the edges is to use a router. I like a small trim router with a thin straight bit. I made a small fence that would ride along the edge I want to copy. Clamp the piece you need to trim in position and run the router between the two pieces. Just make sure you have the fence against the good edge not the edge you want to trim. (Don't ask how I know that :oops: :oops: ) I have a few photos in my posts under modified malahini. Page 4 and 5 I think.


I went back and read your experience spiling on the Malahini. Thanks. That answered so many questions I had and a few that I did not even know to ask. I assume you used the same process for trimming your plywood planking? And if so, did you have any problems with the fence maintaining contact with the installed plank on the concave portions of the hull?

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DrBryanJ
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby DrBryanJ » Tue Aug 15, 2017 9:52 am

The malahini does't have plywood planking. It is made with long sheets of ply scarfed or butt edged together. On the concave area around the bow, I did not have any problem, probably because I kept my fence relatively short.
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."

Hercdrvr
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Hercdrvr » Fri Sep 22, 2017 3:23 pm

Back to work on the Barrelback. I tore off the plank that was wavy and got it replaced. Total of 5 planks today, slow and steady is my road to completion. I'm finally getting a system for this cold molding business.
Matt B
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This wavy wonkie plank had to come off.

Hercdrvr
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Re: 20ft Texas Barrel

Postby Hercdrvr » Tue Oct 10, 2017 8:24 am

Weather cooled off and I’m in boat building road gear again. 12 planks before noon, I love it when the Texas summer heat finally breaks.
Matt B
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