Michael's ZIP

Outboard designs up to 14'

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Roberta
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby Roberta » Sat Nov 25, 2017 9:26 am

Not sure what you are using, Mike, but I would wash any amine blush off prior to sanding to prevent imbedding it in the epoxy when sanding. Then clean off with a product called DuPont final clean or denatured alcohol prior to recoating. Also, I would used a coarser grade of sandpaper between coats of epoxy to get a better mechanical bond. Make sure you are using thin coats as opposed to thicker ones. Thin coats can be built up without washing and sanding if done within 24 hrs.

Roberta
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

PeterG
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby PeterG » Sat Nov 25, 2017 11:30 am

I think Roberta and Bill are right, I've seen this happen with a couple of epoxy paint systems on ships undergoing blast and paint... There was amine blush on the surface, could have been caused by a few different things but sanding it smooth and cleaning with solvent like denatured alcohol should correct that. Ditto on thin coats too. Good luck!
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby BarnacleMike » Mon Nov 27, 2017 8:09 pm

Better.

So, using the denatured alcohol obviously worked. What is special about using denatured alcohol? Does it simply evaporate faster than water? Is there something else about using it?
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-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

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DrBryanJ
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby DrBryanJ » Tue Nov 28, 2017 6:11 am

Michael: Some things will not dissolve in water, but will in alcohol. Others need acetone or other types of solvent. Unless you know exactly it is trial and error to find out.
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."

JimmY
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby JimmY » Tue Nov 28, 2017 10:25 am

I believe the alcohol dissolves oils (from your hands, and apparently from cured epoxy). But you have to wipe it on and off to remove the oils. If you just poured it on and let it evaporate, the oils would still be there.

Glad this worked for you. I went through a few cans of alcohol (both types!) with my Squirt.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby BarnacleMike » Sun Dec 17, 2017 8:38 pm

Moving on to Frame #2...

I wanted the dashboard set at an angle, like several people have done. Here are some pictures of how I decided to go about it.

Basically, I made a 10° wedge of mahogany with my planer/jointer. The wedge spans the full height of the dash beam. I cut the wedge to match the curvature of the gussets, and then sandwiched the wedges between the gussets and the dash beam.
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-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

joshuab
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby joshuab » Sun Dec 17, 2017 11:00 pm

Very cool! That is a neat idea.
I cut twice and it's still too short :mrgreen:

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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby joshuab » Sun Dec 17, 2017 11:01 pm

Very cool! That is a neat idea.
I cut twice and it's still too short :mrgreen:

PeterG
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby PeterG » Mon Dec 18, 2017 9:15 am

Clever idea! It saves a step and some extra wood to set an angled dash. Tipping the deck beam will flatten the deck curvature slightly compared to the vertical deck beam, but probably not a significant amount in this case?
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby BarnacleMike » Mon Dec 18, 2017 8:10 pm

Hopefully, the crown of the deck will remain pretty much the same. I am fairing off the raised forward edge of the dash beam so that it is level with the back edge. Theoretically, when I'm done, the top surface of the dash beam will be no different than if the beam was set vertically.

Theoretically. :)
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

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vupilot
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby vupilot » Mon Dec 18, 2017 8:45 pm

By tipping it you may also lose some height after fairing off the top rear edge so the deck lays flat. Or are you already compensating for that? With dash frame flat the steering wheel mount diameter is exactly the height of the dash frame so you dont really want to lose any overall height of the beam.

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby BarnacleMike » Wed Dec 20, 2017 10:24 pm

Ah, yes... I meant to say the "raised aft edge" of the dash beam earlier. Looking AT the dash, it's so easy to consider it the "front" even though the dashboard is on the back of the frame.

Anyway... Yes, I basically compensated for both of those issues. I over-cut the crown slightly, so that I'd have some room to adjust. I have been fairing down that raised aft edge, and so far everything's looking fine.

When I was planning out the dash, I allowed for the height of the steering bezel (about 5 inches, if I recall), plus a little extra room.

I think it should be fine. But, if I do run into trouble later on, I have a backup plan. I'll simply add a shim to the crown of the dash beam if needed. If I run out of room for the steering bezel, I'll let the bottom part hang down a little, and I'll add a complementary wood "steering mount", similar to the way Rick Bohn did his Zip. It's slightly visible in this shot:

Image
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby BarnacleMike » Thu Dec 21, 2017 8:08 am

The current state of frames 2 and 4...
Attachments
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-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby BarnacleMike » Sat Dec 30, 2017 8:29 am

Since I'm making the tilted dash beam an integral part of the frame, I'm doing much of the dashboard layout & cutting work now, while it's easier to work on. I recently got a router... a Dewalt compact router, as I had seen in Joshua Burks' videos. So far, I have made the oval cutout for the instrument inlay. I rounded over the front with a 3/8" round-over bit, and cut out the back with a 3/8" rabbeting bit. I've got my plywood template for the gauges ready, and now I'm working on a piece of cherry for the inlay.
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Last edited by BarnacleMike on Sat Dec 30, 2017 8:32 am, edited 1 time in total.
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Michael's ZIP

Postby BarnacleMike » Sat Dec 30, 2017 8:31 am

...and here is the Faria Euro Beige tachometer that I bought to be the centerpiece gauge in the inlay.
Attachments
DSC_0530.jpg
-Michael

Built Utility "Perseverance" — completed Aug 2016
Currently building a Zip
My Boatbuilding Blog: http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
My Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com


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