FF in Kathleen GA

Hercdrvr · Post by **Hercdrvr** » Sat Oct 06, 2018 9:28 pm

Sure, why not? Let er rip.
Matt B

Post by **billy c** » Sun Oct 07, 2018 6:54 am

Conrad
looks good

use your metal detector over that and get all the dander off before running thru your saw and planer.
Billy

Conrad · Post by **Conrad** » Sun Oct 07, 2018 11:17 am

If the keel is laminated with epoxy...why would you need screws from the bottom?

TomB · Post by **TomB** » Sun Oct 07, 2018 2:22 pm

To expand the question...screws between keel and sheer clam laminations (#8 @ 6"?), and then more screws through the hull layers and the laminations (#8 @ 3"?)...that's a lot of screws, why?

Answered as if I was the designer...If there is a little weakness in the woodgrain in one layer or another, the screws hold things together and prevent cracks from opening. If there is a little distraction while measuring epoxy components, the screws hold things together. Differential expansion between solid lumber and plywood may lead to eventual joint failure (not sure I agree with that one), the screws hold things together. Building with what you've got, suspect as it may be, screws hold things together. Something dynamic happens when the bottom of the water and the top of the water get too close together while the boat is cruising in the middle, screws hold things together.

I not putting in that many screws, but its on me not the designer.

Tom

Conrad · Post by **Conrad** » Sun Oct 07, 2018 3:13 pm

TomB wrote:To expand the question...screws between keel and sheer clam laminations (#8 @ 6"?), and then more screws through the hull layers and the laminations (#8 @ 3"?)...that's a lot of screws, why?

Answered as if I was the designer...If there is a little weakness in the woodgrain in one layer or another, the screws hold things together and prevent cracks from opening. If there is a little distraction while measuring epoxy components, the screws hold things together. Differential expansion between solid lumber and plywood may lead to eventual joint failure (not sure I agree with that one), the screws hold things together. Building with what you've got, suspect as it may be, screws hold things together. Something dynamic happens when the bottom of the water and the top of the water get too close together while the boat is cruising in the middle, screws hold things together.

I not putting in that many screws, but its on me not the designer.

Tom

Well, if I do place screws in it, I'll do it after the flip

Conrad · Post by **Conrad** » Mon Oct 08, 2018 6:44 pm

Well, here is the proposed fix for the chine logs...havent glued them on yet, I'll set them in tomorrow, but it should allow for the angle fix once shaved down properly.

Hercdrvr · Post by **Hercdrvr** » Sun Oct 21, 2018 8:28 pm

Chine fairing should work out nicely with the added lamination. Looking good sir,
Matt B

hoodman · Post by **hoodman** » Sun Oct 21, 2018 9:26 pm

It seems almost everyone has to do this. I did it myself and have seen it done across multiple different designs. Just part of the process. It's looking good, you're getting it.

Conrad · Post by **Conrad** » Fri Feb 01, 2019 10:02 pm

So, we've had some massive water damage in the house and my wood working business has been keeping me super busy as well. On top of all that, I am heading on a quasi deployment to SC and haven't gotten the flyer where I want her before I move her. That being said, I am super close to putting the first 2 pieces of plywood on. I need to fair the keel and I don't want to be hanging on top of the boat to do it. so I am considering the attached(not drawn to scale) jig to allow a sliding oak board to go back and forth with an adjustable clamping mechanism to fair the keel perfect with the battens. let me know what you think. I'm considering 2 handles to help hold the board in case the router kicks a bit.

John

specialk · Post by **specialk** » Mon Feb 04, 2019 9:55 am

Conrad...
I made a center line down keel...
And used a belt sander to make that bevel. ...
Of course checking frequently. ..

chugalug · Post by **chugalug** » Mon Feb 04, 2019 11:55 am

On my build,I had to cut kerf into front of battons and wire them down to build form.Then after plys on and flip,could glue back together and glue to inside of ply.

Conrad · Post by **Conrad** » Fri May 03, 2019 5:29 am

Life Happens.

I haven't quit building, but between the house repairs and being out the door a lot, we have been on an extended hold. We also got PCS notification, so we may be going to Germany, Alaska, or Panama City. Who knows? Either way, I will need to have the hull on by Jan to move her.

hoodman · Post by **hoodman** » Sat May 04, 2019 4:31 am

I moved not long after the flip. Definitely easier to move the boat when it's already on it's own trailer. It's perseverance that builds a boat more than anything else.

Conrad · Post by **Conrad** » Fri May 31, 2019 7:36 am

Dumb question...do you epoxy between the battens and the bottom ply? How thick?

TomB · Post by **TomB** » Fri May 31, 2019 9:48 am

Conrad,

Have a look at the instructions. For the Tahoe under Planking - "Epoxy glue is applied liberally to all initial mating surfaces and between all layers." Your results may vary.

I used syrup consistency, and rolled it on the plywood then used an acid brush to get the frames and battens as thick as possible without running. Then picked up the plywood and stuck it on with staples...Messy!

Tom

Glen-L.com

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