Fisherman

Outboard designs up to 14'

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epiziali
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Re: Fisherman

Post by epiziali » Mon Feb 11, 2019 6:00 pm

Was able to get sheer clamps in. Photo of steam set up. Amazing how we’ll steam works. I’ll get battens in next. It’ll be a few weeks before I can spend more time on it. I’ll post another update then. I think I have approach to fairing figured out. Thanks for all the tips.
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epiziali
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Re: Fisherman

Post by epiziali » Sat Feb 16, 2019 8:03 am

Battens are in! Picked up some hardware.
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epiziali
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Re: Fisherman

Post by epiziali » Wed Mar 06, 2019 2:40 pm

Update: Somewhere in the middle of fairing. Figuring things out as I go.

Any tips and tricks on working the the stem from chine to bottom and battens are welcome. I know I'll get it done, but it's taking me as long to figure out the approach as it is to remove the material. :(
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epiziali
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Re: Fisherman

Post by epiziali » Thu Mar 07, 2019 12:13 am

getting into some trial and error with sheer towards stem. my plans explain that sheer clamp will need fairing close to a 45 degree angle toward stem. But it does not look like it will to me. If I go to 45 degrees, it looks like sheer ply will end up being concave inward. I am assuming I want a nice cone shape/more less straight from chine to sheer.

The pic where my scrap is closest to frame three, it looks like ply is straight.

closer to stem where I have more or less a 45 degree angle, the ply will concave inward if I were to clamp flush to sheer clamp.
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DrBryanJ
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Re: Fisherman

Post by DrBryanJ » Thu Mar 07, 2019 6:12 am

I think a lot of these boats are designed with a slight concavity between the shear and the chine near the stem. I'm not familiar with the the fisherman, but when I looked at the drawing on website it looks like there is a little.
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

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TomB
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Re: Fisherman

Post by TomB » Thu Mar 07, 2019 7:04 am

Plywood curves develop in on one direction. As the plywood curves from side of boat to bow, expect a flat line from sheer to chine with a twist. A little crowning or cupping is possible with a lot of force, but not much. I suspect a little (1/32" maybe) needs to come off the sheer to take the out the concave. But...it is hard to know for sure as the plywood is going through a twist and the straight across line may not be where you think it is (been there, fixed it with a shim), better to start fitting your planking and check/adjust to get full contact across the sheer and chine based on what the planking tells you.

Tom

epiziali
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Re: Fisherman

Post by epiziali » Thu Mar 07, 2019 1:07 pm

Thanks guys!

Ok. That makes sense. It occurred to me after post there is concave in stem. It actually seems like more than a little. If that’s my guide I think I got the vision now.
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Eric

epiziali
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Re: Fisherman

Post by epiziali » Thu Mar 07, 2019 4:03 pm

Tom-I found the instructions on attaching side planking. It just says, "Note that no mention is made of fastening side planking to frames although they are coated with glue."

So there ya go...the answer was right in front of me... :D
Eric

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Re: Fisherman

Post by TomB » Thu Mar 07, 2019 4:14 pm

Nothing in the fastener schedule? There should be some screws or nails in there somewhere, probably just around the perimeter. Tom

epiziali
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Re: Fisherman

Post by epiziali » Thu Mar 07, 2019 5:47 pm

This just pertains to vertical frame members 1, 2, 3. There is indeed a schedule for everything else...lots of screws go every where else.
Eric

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hoodman
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Re: Fisherman

Post by hoodman » Fri Mar 08, 2019 1:53 am

Yeah you just don't want to perforate the ply panel vertically on the frames with screws.
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PeterG
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Re: Fisherman

Post by PeterG » Wed Mar 13, 2019 12:51 pm

It looks like you haven't faired your Sheers enough yet? Think of it this way, the upper outer corner of the sheer (when boat is upright) is the starting point or upper corner of the angle to mate against the side planking, that angle points to the outer surface of the chine. You fair the sheer at the angle you need to have the plywood planking make full flat contact against the sheer and chine. As you get closer to the stem the sheer goes to a triangular cross section. Here is a link to a Malahini/Ski Tow pictorial, the lower photo shows the sheer being faired:
https://www.glen-l.com/weblettr/weblett ... itow5.html
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
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epiziali
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Re: Fisherman

Post by epiziali » Thu Mar 14, 2019 1:02 pm

Thanks Peter.

I have made some good progress fairing the sheer clamps.

Current state: I have a full 8 foot 4mm length scrap that I am using to check my contact points. I can see that I have a nice consistent contact with sheer clamp from frame 3 to stem. But I also see that I have ~1/8 to 3/16 gap on underside of chine (from chine to sheer clamp). I can pretty much close this by clamping it tightly, but feel like there is a lot of torque on the chine when doing this.

Thinking through options:

Take more material out of bottom side of sheet clamp (top side of boat). Which would make for steeper angle on sheer clamp and close gap on chine. My concern with this is that 1/8 of an inch in angle on sheer clamp won't translate to the 1/8 I need on chine. But maybe it will? So that is my question with this approach.

Or, shim it. Which seems like a pretty easy solution.

Separate items:
I will be transition back to fairing bottom from frame 3 to chine. It seems like it will be beneficial to detach my batten closest to keel, and kerf it. Anyone have experience with this approach/ recommend one way or the other?

Plywood. My local supplier/s have either 1/4 inch doug fir 3 ply; or 3/8 inch 5 ply clear birch in marine grade. I noticed folks like okuame. I am sure I can track down just about anything. recommendations welcome!

Thanks
Eric

epiziali
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Re: Fisherman

Post by epiziali » Thu Mar 14, 2019 6:29 pm

Pic of fit to sheer
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Eric

epiziali
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Re: Fisherman

Post by epiziali » Thu Mar 14, 2019 6:30 pm

Pic of gap
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Eric

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