bending and attaching chines
Moderator: BruceDow
bending and attaching chines
Question #3 I am attempting bend and align the chines. I am able to bend the chines but when I bring them next the stem, they come in at a 45 degree angle. It is if I have to twist the chine so it is parallel to the side of the stem. It appears to be the same problem for alignment with the transom. If that is true how in the world do you twist an oak 1x2?
Re: bending and attaching chines
The dreaded twisting chine at the stem, every builder goes through this challenge. Twist the chine as much as you can when you attach it to the stem and add material during fairing if needed. It’s not a big deal.
Matt B
Matt B
Re: bending and attaching chines
Easier to laminate two 1/2" by 2 pieces.
Roberta
Roberta
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".
Re: bending and attaching chines
I installed the sheers first, and used clamps braced against the sheers to help with the twisting.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!
Re: bending and attaching chines
I agree with Roberta on laminating the chine. I never try to bend full size stock on the chine or sheer.
Jimmy has a good point too, sheer first. I gives you a better idea of where angle of the chine needs to be.
Matt B
Jimmy has a good point too, sheer first. I gives you a better idea of where angle of the chine needs to be.
Matt B
- galamb
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Re: bending and attaching chines
Yes, trying to bend full sized stock can sometimes result in an unintended consequence 
The (replacement) did go on fine but I soaked them in water for almost two days (save the end that needed to be fastened to the stem) and I fastened at the stem "first" - gave me a ton more leverage getting the rest into place (my chines were 26' long). The "soggy" chine was much more co-operative and only took a few days to dry back out.

The (replacement) did go on fine but I soaked them in water for almost two days (save the end that needed to be fastened to the stem) and I fastened at the stem "first" - gave me a ton more leverage getting the rest into place (my chines were 26' long). The "soggy" chine was much more co-operative and only took a few days to dry back out.
Graham
Yes, Plywood is "real" wood
A "professional" is someone who gets paid for their work - it doesn't necessarily mean they are good at it
Yes, Plywood is "real" wood

A "professional" is someone who gets paid for their work - it doesn't necessarily mean they are good at it
