20ft Texas Barrel

[Hercdrvr]

It’s like magic.
So now the question is:
1. tie the dash lights to ignition “on”
2. or to the NAV lights
3. or a dedicated instrument light switch? When running at night I like to keep interior blacked out.
Matt B

[Biss]

Looks nice. I had the same thoughts when I was doing my electrical. In the end, I just swapped out all my bulbs with LEDs and they come on with the key switch. I have the other interior lights and nav lights on a three position pull switch. Don't really notice the gage lights during the day.

[hoodman]

I have the dash lights wired in with the nav lights. I get why you would possibly want them switched separately though. The other thing you might want to consider is if you want to be able to just have the stern light on if you're anchored at night. I have a 3 way switch for this (off-anc-nav).

[Aussie]

I have mine switched on there own. Option to have them off or on when I want to.

[Jimbob]

I have a separate nav switch that controls the front light and the rear flag pole light independent of the key on/off switch. You might be parked somewhere with the motor turned off and want to be seen.
My gauges are wired to the key on switch because if I am running at night, I want to know what the engine is doing. That circuit runs with the nav lights also so the gauge lights aren't on in the daytime.
If you don't want the gauges lit, why don't you just wire a rheostat (dimmer switch) between the key on switch, and the gauge lights? Just like a car.
Jim

[TomB]

Matt,

I've been planning to replace the Faria filament bulbs with LEDs. Here is a threat on the subject http://www.glen-l.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=29451 Maybe there is a red option that doesn't blow out your night vision.

Tom

[Hercdrvr]

I cut the channel for the 1/4” stainless inlay. I didn’t have a dado blade so I just made a few passes with 1/8” wide blade on the table saw. Like most things with my boat construction, it’s not perfect but close enough. The cutout channel is a little too wide at the ends. Look at left side of picture. How would y’all fill the 1/32” extra gap? I was thinking, just let the epoxy I use to secure the stainless in place ooz out and fill any gaps.
Next is to polish the stainless up nice and bright.
Matt B

[mrintense]

Looks great Matt. If the gaps are far enough outboard, will they be covered by other pieces. 1/32nd is pretty thin and I don't think anyone will notice.

[Jimbob]

Hi Matt,
Bet you could squeeze some famowood mahogany putty into the gap if it bugs you. You might not even notice once you get the stain and finish on the dash.
Jim

[Hercdrvr]

Sanded and polished the 1/4” stainless inlays for the dash. I Started with 400 grit and worked up to 3000 grit and then the polishing wheel.
Matt B

[steveh41]

Great looking dash Matt!

Re: instrument lights you might consider a separate switch with dimmer so you could dial in the effect you want. LED's are great... you can get red or blue as well as white. Personally I prefer the "warm white" to the "cool white", seems to look more natural to the eye...

Regards,

Steve

[mrintense]

Nice work on the dash Matt. That is a nice effect. Once the centers are cut out and the instruments are in there, it is going to be a beaut!

[Biss]

Really cool, looks nice!

[Hercdrvr]

Closing up the bow with sub deck and getting the dash angle and deck overhang of the dash figured out.
About a 15 degree angle suits me.
Matt B

[JimmY]

Lookin' good Matt.