Tom's Tahoe

[TomB]

Carl, I appreciate your vote of confidence. I wasn't at all sure I could pull it off, its good enough for me.

The shop has a nice thick layer of dusts...

The boards next to the king plank are kind of wild grained and lighter than the rest of the boat. I'm not sure I like them...maybe time for a dye job.

I had left the cover boards 1/16" thick and faired them to the finished decking. I still need to fair cover boards a bit between the fore and aft decks.

The fore deck has been extended 12", so most of the cowls are in the design cockpit space. The reason---I like long hoods.

Tom

[kens]

Very beautiful work.
Those cover boards with lighter color, personnally I wouldnt worry about as long as they are symetrical left side/right side.
If you try to stain them, they might not stain equally.
Very nice work, you'r looking like one of those Van Dam boats !!!!

[TomB]

Thanks Ken. Vandam sets a high standard. If this was a Vandam boat, it would have yellow cedar as the inside hull layer, a perfectly matched veneer layer, and somebody with a clue working on it.

I'm looking at the two deck planks either side of the king plank. They all come from the same board and are more-or-less book matched (all good) except they have a LOT of ribboning which I would like to tame a bit. The cover boards are light too but don't showing such dramatic ribboning. I can't work on the boat much for the next few weeks. The raw wood may age a little and make the pieces more acceptable and I may be able to mess with some stain/dye on scrap and help it that way. I had color concerns with several hull planks and they look fine now so there is probable too much thinking going on.

Tom

[kens]

I can say that my little canoe build, with the strip planked western red cedar, I opted for some few planks of same wood/different color, and they did stand out as I wanted/different colors.,,,but,
The designer/seller of the plans did mention that if the wood of same species, it would eventually revert into the same color.
With a couple years into this canoe, he is correct, the same species wood/lighter color, it is all blending into same color with age.
Just my $.02 on the species/color thing.

[Ibrew2be]

Tom, you have done really outstanding work on your build. Thanks for sharing your progress along the way with the rest of us.

I am curious about the approach you've taken for dealing with all of the staple holes. Did you do anything special to fill them?

Barry

[Biss]

Boat looks great! I think the slight variation in color will look great in the end. Looks a bit like racing stripes!

[TomB]

it is all blending into same color with age.
Just my $.02 on the species/color thing.

I appreciate your $.02 Ken...step back, take a deep breath and wait a while, good advice for most things.

Barry,

I had to battle the staple holes on the hull. The holes were not apparent looking straight on, but reflected in the gloss when looking down the hull. Epoxy would fill the holes until it ran out when I looked the other way. Neel Thompson make a fix suggestion that you can see documented www.glen-l.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1 ... &start=135 starting part way down the page. I filled a few holes with mahogany colored Famowood. The Famowood was light and also filled open wood grain which I didn't like. All holes filled after several sanded coats of epoxy and the hull is smooth (no staple hole dimples). All the holes, whether filled with epoxy or Famowood, are still visible straight on if you are up close and know what you are looking for. I don't see them, good enough.

I also steamed some holes which helped a little while also raising the grain. I would not do that again, not enough benefit for the effort.

On the deck I was careful to orient the stapler with the grain so the resulting holes mimic the orientation of the natural dark flecks in the wood and some holes close some since the staple leg is spreading the grain rather than cutting it. Lifting straight up on the rope also helps to minimize damage. Gravity will help the epoxy get into the holes on the deck, not worried. Last and probably most important, moving back a foot or two helps show the microscopic flaws for what they are.

Thanks Biss. I see the racing stripes too, not sure I like them, but I see them.

Tom

[neel thompson]

Tom…. Great workmanship. Seeing the finished product is definitely on my bucket list.....I am sure we will be seeing more raised cowls, racing stripes (I love them), and seamless decks on future builds. NICE JOB !!

[Ibrew2be]

Thanks Tom. I agree with what Neel said, I too am looking forward to seeing how your seamless deck looks when you've got 'er all finished and shined up.

Barry

[TomB]

Thanks Neel & Barry, "Lots more seamless decks". My mother warned me not to set a bad example Tom

[Mr Hot Rod]

Nice work, Tom !

Here's another seamless deck (and carbon fiber cutwater) :

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Build thread :

• Tahoe 19

Boatbuilder Galleries :

• Tahoe 19 by Ron Filsell, North-West Sydney, Australia

____________________
Paul Kane
Kane Custom Boats Ltd.
Chelsea, Quebec

Building the Glen-L Hot Rod : http://www.kanecustomboats.com
Glen-L Hot Rod build thread
Kane Custom Boats YouTube channel
Glen-L Boat Video Directory

Forum Support Knowledge Base

[TomB]

Thanks Paul. I hadn't seen Ron's build thread. The carbon fiber is an interesting idea. I would like to work a fair lead in there somehow.

I would also like to hide the horn. I see docking lights and recessed horns behind slotted covers. Are there any combination horn/dock lights? If I just stick the horn under the deck will it be loud enough?

Tom

[neel thompson]

Tom… You can mount a loud 12 volt horn under the deck near one of the cowl vents. I did that on the Gentry and it is plenty loud

[TomB]

Thanks Neel. I could put a horn on the back of the dash? pointed toward the passenger seat. If its not loud enough, add a second. If its too loud it can serve double duty...passenger ejector.
Tom

[JimmY]

Hi Tom,

Any progress lately?