Hello everyone, Im attempting to build a 32' supper huck house boat. The local lumber yard does not carry Douglas fir or Mahogany.
Is number 2 pine out of the question when building frame work?
Pine for framming
Moderator: Bill Edmundson
Pine for framming
Heath
Morgans Point, Tx
Morgans Point, Tx
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Dave Grason
- Posts: 3762
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- Location: Lake Barkley, KY
I really wouldn't use it. Pine has a lot of turpentine and sap in the wood. You gotta know that this is going to cause probs with the epoxy. Also, it's terribly knotty and that's going to create probs with any fasteners and will have weak areas. It's a soft wood and if you epoxy it, the bond can fail because of the epoxy actually being harder than the wood. I like to think of it like dipping a marshmellow in chocolate. Once the chocolate hardens, the marshmellow can be crushed and the chocolate will break off. You wouldn't want this to happen with the boat you put so much work into.
I also have the plans for the Super Huck. I too wanted to use Doug Fir when the time comes to build. But like you, I can't find it locally and decided I'd probably go with Ash for the frames. It is really not very expensive here, even cheaper than White Oak. We're seeing it hovering around $2.25 per board foot. It's know free and very straight and strengthwise, I really think it compares well with White Oak. If there's one drawback, they say that it isn't all that resistant to rot but that can be cured simply by making sure that everything is totally sealed up with epoxy.
I also have the plans for the Super Huck. I too wanted to use Doug Fir when the time comes to build. But like you, I can't find it locally and decided I'd probably go with Ash for the frames. It is really not very expensive here, even cheaper than White Oak. We're seeing it hovering around $2.25 per board foot. It's know free and very straight and strengthwise, I really think it compares well with White Oak. If there's one drawback, they say that it isn't all that resistant to rot but that can be cured simply by making sure that everything is totally sealed up with epoxy.
Isn't it amazing!! The person that never has the fortitude to pursue his own dreams, will be the first to try and discourage you from pursuing yours.
I would be concerned with rot when using pine for the framing material....possibly you can get southern yellow pine in your area..its strong and fairly rot resistant...I guess its real weakness is that its a little on the heavy side but depending on the boat being built weight isn't that big an issue
IMHO there are two schools of thought on epoxy encapsulation and I'm not totally convinced using a wood prone to rot and encapsulating it will make it suddenly rot resistant. That only works as long as the epoxy coating remains intact...If the epoxy coating even gets a single nick in it during use you will be introducing water to the rot prone wood..just my 2 cents....as I said there are two schools of thought on this...those that totally buy into epoxy encapsulation and those that don't....me I'm somewhere in the middle..I think its just one of many solutions you can use to help your boat resist rot but I dont believe it is the end all of solutions
IMHO there are two schools of thought on epoxy encapsulation and I'm not totally convinced using a wood prone to rot and encapsulating it will make it suddenly rot resistant. That only works as long as the epoxy coating remains intact...If the epoxy coating even gets a single nick in it during use you will be introducing water to the rot prone wood..just my 2 cents....as I said there are two schools of thought on this...those that totally buy into epoxy encapsulation and those that don't....me I'm somewhere in the middle..I think its just one of many solutions you can use to help your boat resist rot but I dont believe it is the end all of solutions
Last edited by Nova SS on Wed Aug 01, 2007 7:36 am, edited 1 time in total.
Quality Yellow Pine is good stuff. You would have to determine if your lumber yard is supplying yellow pine or some generic white pine. But by the time you cut around all the knots & defects & culls of lumberyard wood, you have so much waste that you can buy better quality from the beginning, and waste less.
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narduccimarine
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From an old post of mine
I dont know what wood you are planning on for your frames, but check out Lowes Southern Yellow pine craft boards. They are straight and clean, hard as rock, and very strong, a little expensive but they make a nice framework.
I have used them exclusively in mine. they come in 1x2 up to 1x10 about 6 or 8 feet long. The only other wood I used in the framework are the longitudinals, which I bought from a local lumber mill. They are also SYP but are less expensive than Lowes but I think even stronger. They also have radiused edges which make them nice to work with.
I dont know what wood you are planning on for your frames, but check out Lowes Southern Yellow pine craft boards. They are straight and clean, hard as rock, and very strong, a little expensive but they make a nice framework.
I have used them exclusively in mine. they come in 1x2 up to 1x10 about 6 or 8 feet long. The only other wood I used in the framework are the longitudinals, which I bought from a local lumber mill. They are also SYP but are less expensive than Lowes but I think even stronger. They also have radiused edges which make them nice to work with.
I just don't understand, I cut that plank twice and its still too short
http://www.narduccimarine.freehosting.net
http://www.narduccimarine.freehosting.net
Re: Pine for framming
Hi m8
Your ok with using oregan pine it's all most the same as Douglas but can have more knots it's s cellulose wood ( soft wood ) hard wood is fibrous its strength is from the density of the fibre the more dense the heavier it is.
Almost all good boat building wood is cellulose.
If you want the lightest wood of the same strength try oregan, redwood, Baltic pine,hoop pine. Their all f8 mpg 10 rated and solong as its painted will do a similar job.
Kind regards John
Your ok with using oregan pine it's all most the same as Douglas but can have more knots it's s cellulose wood ( soft wood ) hard wood is fibrous its strength is from the density of the fibre the more dense the heavier it is.
Almost all good boat building wood is cellulose.
If you want the lightest wood of the same strength try oregan, redwood, Baltic pine,hoop pine. Their all f8 mpg 10 rated and solong as its painted will do a similar job.
Kind regards John
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lakeracer69
- Posts: 192
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- Location: NH
Re: Pine for framming
Wow, talk about a necro-thread reply!
As Conan the Barbarian says, " It's not how hard you can hit, it's how hard you can get hit and remain standing".
Re: Pine for framming
http://worldwideflood.com/ark/wood/marine_timber.htm
This should help hopefully ,
I want you to get started I'm building the supper huck as well and haven't found much in the way of build threads for these boats .
This should help hopefully ,
I want you to get started I'm building the supper huck as well and haven't found much in the way of build threads for these boats .
Re: Pine for framming
Who are you trying to help, exactly? This is a nine (9) year old thread that you're posting in!This should help hopefully ,
I want you to get started...
Heck, the original poster hasn't even logged into this forum since 2009!