Rampage update

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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Denon Osterman
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Rampage update

Post by Denon Osterman »

well, ive gotten all the frames and stem and bresthook and deckbeams done and glued. im about to set it all up on a form(after taking some pictures, of course!) BUT there are some issues...

1. i cant find any wood long enough for the chines and sheers...so im going to do both in laminations, and stagger the joints 10'. the joint on the fist lamination will be backed with a butt block, to hold it until the second lamination is on. will this work?

2. the jet keel calls for a 12 inch wide plank...but the widest i can find are 10 inches. what should i do about this? the same method as above(so 9 and 3 inch peices laminated together, with the joint in each on opposite sides), two peices scarfed together down the middle, or will the 10 inch peice be wide enough?

thanks!
denon
Nova SS
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Re: Rampage update

Post by Nova SS »

Denon why not just scarf them together and forget about butt bloking them?
Denon Osterman
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Re: Rampage update

Post by Denon Osterman »

Well, in the plans it says to use butt blocks, but to make sure they dont straighten the fairness of the curve(if thats how you word it). im going to be using two laminations for the chine anyways to ease bending, and the sheer stipulates it, so i thought it might be a useful way around the problem.
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BruceDow
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Re: Rampage update

Post by BruceDow »

even if you are laminating, the best way is to scarf your thinner pieces to full length before laminating.

Practice on a piece of scrap or two.

It is not hard once you get the hang of it.

B.
Bruce.

~~ Do what you love, and love what you do. ~~
~~ To me - only my boat is not yet perfect. Everybody else's is to be admired for I know the path they have walked (Dave Lott, 2010) ~~
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Amm
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Re: Rampage update

Post by Amm »

Nothing wrong with a butt block. If you don't have a power planer or other way to make a good scarf joint, then you will probably do better with a butt block.

The only reason I bought my power planer was to do scarf joints.
Denon Osterman
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Re: Rampage update

Post by Denon Osterman »

Ok so i've got the front end assembled, the stringers laminated and notched, and am going to try and get the form set up tommorow...my question is what width should the stringers be? for those that havnt seen my other posts im using a 502 BB chevy...i want the strongest mounting system possible(what is that?) and im assuming from the plans that the width from inside to insde is 26"(correct me if im wrong!!!)? but since the stringers are notched 1/2 an inch to the setup level at 24 inch spacing, do i have to change the notch depth for the 26" spacing(since otherwise the frames will ride higher on the stringers?). also, for some reason i was sent 6" net x 2" net wood for the stringers, this wont matter will it?

Thanks!
Denon
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BruceDow
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Re: Rampage update

Post by BruceDow »

Hi Denon.

The stringer width must be customized to the sapacing of your engine block, and your plans for mounting it.

It is probably time to get out some graph paper (or a simple computer drafting program MS Visio) and do a little planning. Where will the front and rear engine mounts land? What sort of supports will you use?

The book "Inboard Engine Installation" has a great section on planning this layout.

Mr Hot Rod's site has some good pictures for a V-Drive layout. http://www.boats.chelseacoachworks.com/ ... frame.html
Bruce.

~~ Do what you love, and love what you do. ~~
~~ To me - only my boat is not yet perfect. Everybody else's is to be admired for I know the path they have walked (Dave Lott, 2010) ~~
Dow's Monaco Project
Denon Osterman
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Location: toronto, CAN

Re: Rampage update

Post by Denon Osterman »

Well,
I was planning on using the Glen-l bobtail conversion kit that is jet/BB specific...but it doesn't say how wide the mounting posts' centers are. i would then think that adding 2 inches a side to clear mounts, etc would suffice? the plans say 24 or 26 but dont specify which should be used for what application...

Denon
Nova SS
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Re: Rampage update

Post by Nova SS »

FWIW, how wide is your motor at the mount point (ie the spot the motor mounts would bolt to)? If you dont know maybe you should find out. Once you know the width of the motor and the width of your motor mounts you will know how wide to put the motor stringers.
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Mr Hot Rod
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Re: Rampage update

Post by Mr Hot Rod »

The 26" spacing would be more flexible if you plan on using some type of engine rail mounting system. You might want to check local salvage yards for a bare block (preferably damaged !) that you can use to mockup your installation. Here we are back in April 2004 doing just that. I'm glad I didn't go with the 24" spacing - the oil coolers for the engine and transmission would have been hanging on the outside of the stringers and things would have been really tight. I think we've redesigned the engine, transmission and v-drive mounts at least three times since this early photo !

Image

BTW PPT's Mercruiser Parts & Diagrams are a good place to start if you want to see how the MerCruisers are assembled. Engine mounts, bellhousings, raw water pumps, intake and exhaust manifolds etc. Once you've got the Part Number, you can try scavenging for used parts.

Here's a link for a GM 502 V8 :

http://www.perfprotech.com/store/catalo ... -3100.aspx (perprotech.com)
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Building the Glen-L Hot Rod : http://www.boats.chelseacoachworks.com
Denon Osterman
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Re: Rampage update

Post by Denon Osterman »

Paul, thanks for your response!

I'm going to go with 26 " spacing, based on what our current piece o' plastic has, your recommendation, and some research Ive done online.

Pics soon!

Denon
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