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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 1:16 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 02, 2006 7:10 pm
Posts: 4394
Location: North Carolina
Just about every week someone brings up woods, choosing the right wood for the job. This is a graphic that I will put up that will maybe help as a reference when grain orientation comes up. The quartersawn is also the vertical grains thats used in almost all teak style decking. It has the least amount of strength . The most stable is still the rift sawn which gives you some grain to fasten and rarely splits out or checks like the flat sawn grains. The flat sawn boards with any width to it is the types that cups when exposed to the ever changing sun and dampness and left free standing. You can get your rift sawn wood by purchasing a flat sawn board with some width and then slice the edges of it.


This saves you a lot of grief by hunting down and buying grain specific lumber. You may wish to also copy the shot and save it on your own computer and refer to it from time to time so when you read a post you can reference off of it for your next job too.

Image


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 4:07 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 26, 2009 12:47 pm
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Location: Winter Haven, Fl
Thanks Oyster

A picture is worth a thousand words. When I asked about this some months ago i was referred to a book that told me about wood but not these different cuts. I tried the internet but your picture tells the tale. thanks again

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Maybe it will be done by G6 and maybe not.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 4:52 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 15, 2003 10:42 pm
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Location: Bedrock, Ontario
how much do you have to cut off the flat cut wood to get rift cut?


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 7:09 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 15, 2006 7:59 pm
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Location: NH
Nova SS wrote:
how much do you have to cut off the flat cut wood to get rift cut?


you can use up to about 75 degrees off dead quarter sawn.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 7:13 pm 
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Location: Lander Wyoming
My picture is all fuzzy...I have only had four and a half beers so it is not the beer....

and I don't think I have macular degeneration yet.. :? :wink:

Steve

if you can clean it up I will hang it over the bed


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 7:14 pm 
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Location: Owasso, Oklahoma
Quote:
My picture is all fuzzy...I have only had four and a half beers so it is not the beer....


Take the saw-dust covered eye protection off...that'll help.

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I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 7:31 am 
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Location: Lander Wyoming
Whoa...much better now !
thanks
Steve
:lol:


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 8:11 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 27, 2006 10:50 am
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Location: Sheboygan, Wi
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-quartersawn-wood.htm

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 11:01 am 
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Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 2:54 pm
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Location: Caleton Place, Ontario, Canada
Hi all,
Hope this helps.
True 1/4 cut lumber has the annual rings at 90 degrees to the face. Rift is 45 degrees. There is a span of degrees allowable for each to vary(can't remember them off the top of my head). To me the drawing from Oyster is far more accurate then the wizegeek link. In real life all the wood has to get used and the angle will change through out the length of the board. What wizegeek is calling rift if not done in the real world, way too much waste and if you look carefully the rings are at 90 degrees to the face, a perfect 1/4 cut. Generally flat sawn or plain sawn has the annual rings parallel to the face, considering the fact that they are not perfectly flat. The wizegeek shows the plain sawn as what is called "Through and through". This is not done much in North America, more in Europe. Here the hart is generally removed to avoid checking.
Great site, I'm here every day.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 12:09 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 15, 2006 7:59 pm
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Location: NH
alester wrote:
Hi all,
Hope this helps.
To me the drawing from Oyster is far more accurate then the wizegeek link.


agreed :!:

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