Glen-L.com

Pictures as promised.

Above looking forward

""

Looking aft

""

_________________
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

Installed the first sheer laminate tonight. Couldn't be more pleased with it. At this point I'm wondering if the instructions don't have things backwards. I also double checked the instructions and plans about the bulkheads, checked my measurements no problem there. Just a rookie, but it seems that if the middle bulkhead was a 1/4" wider there wouldn't be a problem. That led me to this thought pattern. What if I laminate a strip 1/4" plywood to the area where it is bowing in and then faired that.

Chip

_________________
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

I think that if you use the temporary bracing, as recommended, everything will stay true once you get the plywood on the bottom.

Also... if you brace before you laminate, the lamination will help keep things straighter.

_________________
Bruce.

~~ Do what you love, and love what you do. ~~
~~ To me - only my boat is not yet perfect. Everybody else's is to be admired for I know the path they have walked (Dave Lott, 2010) ~~
Dow's Monaco Project

Your problem maybe the angles on the ends of the frames. If the end of the frames are just right angle or too little and you fasten the chines to it, you can create this problem. What is that angle on the last station?


With the distance between the stations too, when you bend at the last one to an a blunt ending along the centerline and the chines are solid and thick, this will also blow out the area foward of the last station if you also fasten the chines rigid before bending. How much distance do you have between the last station and where they end up together?

Bruce,

Bracing will not work. I applied a little pressure to the bow out last night. It wouldn't move, afraid too much pressure would crack one.

Oyster,

Just so I know we are on the same page, I'm going to call the transom station #1. Stations 2 & 3 are twins and station #4 is narrower on the bottom and top. The notches in 2 & 3 are straight and the notches in 4 are angled toward the stem. It's still just my opinion, but I think if # 3 was 1/4" wider than #2 it would allow the bend to taper more instead of coming right back into a straight line.

Thanks again guys for your time. I want to get this right, I have a bunch of arm chair quarterbacks around here. Also, talking about twins remember I have to build another one.

_________________
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

Try softening the chines by soaking them in towels drenched repeatedly with boiling water.

work slowly.

Then see if a bar clamp (or twisting a rope) can draw the wide section in. At the same time use some sort of spreader (maybe just a stick) to force the skinny section apart.

For the twin, you can try the above approach at the time you spring the chines. That way it should go to the right shape from the start.

good luck.

_________________
Bruce.

~~ Do what you love, and love what you do. ~~
~~ To me - only my boat is not yet perfect. Everybody else's is to be admired for I know the path they have walked (Dave Lott, 2010) ~~
Dow's Monaco Project

Oyster,

After rereading your post I realized I missed the question about the distance. It is 30" between #4 and the stem. I also looked at the plans again regarding #4 and it calls for angling the notches inward, which I thought I had done. I'm still leaning toward building the bow in up with ply and fairing. If that is a no no please let me know.

Bruce,

I want to thank you again for your help with the drawings. Still have some work there. Going to wait until I have all my sheer laminates installed.

""

_________________
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

Well that explains a lot for that thick chine by comparison to bend in such a short run. You are asking the wood to do something that it really will not do, especially with the pine and the hard point. Go back to square one at the last station. If the chine is glued and if you have a sawzall, use a metal cutting blade and cut the chine back off, cutting on a slight angle which will relieve the wood. Then you can spring it out a bit and pivot the frame a bit and clean the glue up with a small grinder if you have one. . If you have a serious heat gun you can also soften up the epoxy and loosen it up with a small chisel. If you also have a fastener run into the frame, attempt to remove it after heating the head up with the heat gun. Lets do this the right way.

Before I undo anything do you mind telling me what would be my next step.

Thanks, Chip

PS. I just read about a guy farm raising singles in St Helena Sound

_________________
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

Wellll I would hope that I described your first move in my last post.



Then see what you have and post a shot. You will need to relieve that hard point, adding more angle toward the stem. The only problem that I see is the chine appears to be glued in place. When you relieve that point, this will shorten up the run between the frame and stem so if the chine was lose you would need to shorten up the chine. But we maybe able to get most of this out without messing with the stem with another method.. We can add a temporary stifferner across the chine just back from the frame. But we will in the beginning do this with a long bar type clamp across the top to see if we can bring the chines more in line. But you must do the angle first.

Oyster,

There seems to be some more added information in your post before my last one. Or it could just be my cooler is getting empty. Will think it thru. Thanks

_________________
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

Guys,

I still have my study cap on, or is it my dunce cap on. Still kicking myself because I didn't catch this when I test fitted the chine. Looked good from the side, unclamped, glued and screwed. Broke my own rule to my kids about getting in a hurry.
Hope I'm not being too much of a pest, just had one more thought. If I have to remove the chine from a frame, why not at #3. Ran a straight edge along the lenght of the chine and the bow in is right at #3. Then build up frame and reattach. Just a thought.

""

_________________
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

Boat building is likened to a ballon. For every action there is a reaction. The more you attempt to straighten out one problem, the more problems you create. The framing and original setup is the most important part of your build. Everything continues to telegraph outward and upward. As you proceed upward and out, you must be able to depend on the foundation in which to pull measurements from for additional components. The worse thing that you can have is also a part thats not doing right, or in some shape that is unnatural or stress out of position. While you can cut any station at this stage of the game, the ends are set rigid in place if I am seeing correctly with the ends glued up. If you begin to alter any station in size, it may or may not make a difference from a distance and to yourself and also may not make much of a difference.

. But thats really not the way that I subscribe to building. The way I see it is that you can tweak the last station an do some back filling with some thickened epoxy and paint over it and be done and not be as far out of wack. A boat that is within a 1/4" plus or minus is really about as good as you can ask for in most cases from side to side in larger sized boats like you are doing..

Oyster,

Thanks again for your time and advice. After printing off your last posts and reading them while looking at my project I got a better idea on where you were leading me. But releasing the chines at #4 and possibly later at the stem scared the heck out of me. Looked back at #3 and knowing I didn't have as much tension and glue there I started working. Also I was thinking that if adjusting #3 didn't help I could simply reattach. How's 1/8" off on one side and 1/16" on the other. I feel I can make this up while doing my fairing. Haven't glued yet.
""

_________________
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

One thing I forgot. Your using a balloon as an example was spot on. Made me try and visualize what each adjustment might cause. If you notice in the picture it did cause the chine on the right to rise up. Nothing that can't be corrected.

_________________
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!