Glen-L.com

Hi folks.

I will be ready to fasten the chine log to my Malahini frames in a few days.

I was wondering, do I use one or two screws at each frame attachment. The instructions did not explicitly say two.. or if they did.. my eyes missed it.

I will be using epoxy as well.. and not screwing at frame 4 till I plywood sides as suggested (to avoid splitting the chine).

Thanks.

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Ian (aka Iggy)
My Malahini Build

Just my experience here...I wouldn't screw at frame 4. One side cracked and the other didn't on mine (with screws) but if I were to do it over again I would do the entire length in two laminations like the sheer. The screw fastening schedule calls for one screw at each frame along the chine. You need to pre-drill and keep the screws pretty low to avoid having to fair screw heads off. In my fix (replacing the cracked side) I went with laminations and didn't screw at frame 4 and think I'll be just fine. That compound angle, scarf in place lamination had me scratching my head for a while though. I did get it figured out and it looks like it was born there. There are other opinions here, of course, this is just mine.

Keep me posted Iggy...I'm finally back in the saddle and will be posting more progress now. Dang it, you'll still probably finish before I do though. I recently found a slight rocker along the keel between the transom and frame 1 (about an eighth of an inch) that I'm trying to figure out how to fix. My chine and battens are right on though...darn. I've got most of it faired out but there is still a little rocker left on the keel only. I may just have to live with it.

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Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
http://www.unitybuild.net

is frame 4 the farthest frame forward? I've read a few different sets of plans and they all largely say not to put a screw in that point until you plank the hull and even then the chine might still crack.

Frame 4 is the forward most frame and the screw fastening schedule calls for one screw at every frame member along the chine. My opinion was/is to leave it out though as the chine is under a considerable amount of compression at that notch. In my case it seats and stays perfectly without any additional fasteners. I did add a small fillet of epoxy there just for peace of mind.

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Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
http://www.unitybuild.net

Iggy, fyi...look at the last page on the instructions "chine log to frames" 2" #10 screws, 1 at each frame.

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Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
http://www.unitybuild.net

ya the schedule does indeed say that but the "build it yourself the Glen-l way" booklet that came with my plans suggests leaving the screws out of the forward most frame so the chine wont crack until after you have planked. Its fig.8

http://www.glen-l.com/methods/plywood/mthdpw04.html

Ok, one screw sounds about right. I am using all Mahogany so I am betting my epoxy should hold pretty good.

I just got in from the garage, the chine is flexing quite readily to the chine blocking right now, a bit of spring but nothing too heavy that it feels like it will snap when I bring it alongside the stem.

In regards to frame 4.. not going to screw it right now, but if there is a fair amount of stress there wouldn't that pose a risk of the epoxy to wood bond eventually working itself apart? I imagine once the plywood is on the chine won't have far to move anyway.. right?

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Ian (aka Iggy)
My Malahini Build

if the epoxy is mixed corectly it is stronger then the wood itself the wood will fail before the epoxy will fail.

I think that beacuse the chine is under a lot of stress at that point putting a hole in it so you can drive a screw into it weakens the chine enough that it will often break. If you wait until you plank the hull at least the planking will add some extra support in that area when you drive the screw in.

As long as your chines are true and in their place your plywood will indeed bridge across the chines after glue up. As a side note, this thread addresses a lot for anyone dealing with broken chines after the fact.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8641

If you follow West System techniques you can fasten all your chines, sheers, battens etc without any fasteners at all.

They suggest if the notches are beveled properly so that the member mates solidly and you add fillets where practical, that you can simply clamp or temporarily fasten until the epoxy sets up.

Of course that assumes that the joint is well fitted and you didn't make any errors mixing the epoxy - which is why I still throw a screw in at each junction where practical

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Graham

Yes, Plywood is "real" wood

A "professional" is someone who gets paid for their work - it doesn't necessarily mean they are good at it

That is my thinking too. I left the screw out at the forward frame where the chine is at its highest stress point. I also added small fillets at frames 3 and 4 for a little extra piece of mind...just as galamb mentioned.

I also went back to the original thread and detailed the whole process of repairing the chine. Thanks for reminding me Oyster!

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Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
http://www.unitybuild.net

I am confident that I can make the connection at frame 4 work using epoxy alone. The chine notch is seating fairly well in the frame and I can add a bit of filler to make it more solid overall.

Thanks for the input everyone.

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Ian (aka Iggy)
My Malahini Build