Glen-L.com

hey all. I just wanted to throw out a very cheap clamping solution that I have used for a number of years. They say that boatbuilders can never have enough clamps, which is true. However, clamps tend to be a bit expensive. Even the cheapest spring clamps cost at least $1.00 each at the dollar store. So, here's a cheap solution: PVC pipe. Some of you veterans may use this trick, and I'm sure you found it to be really affordable and useful. Here's how you do it in 3 easy steps:

1) Take a standard PVC pipe (1", 2", 3", etc.) from any hardware store ($3.98 for an 8' length at Lowes)
2) Use your tablesaw to make a cut lengthwise from one end of the pipe to the other.
3) Use a bandsaw or handsaw to cut the pipe into 1" sections.

These springy little clamps can be used wherever you would use small C-clamps or spring clamps for laminating or securing plywood to the stringers.

If you vary the pipe dimensions, you will give yourself a wide selection of clamping tensions and capabilities. I use 2" pipes for laminating sheers and chines because they have more clamping strength than a comparable spring clamp.

As a note, the edges of the clamps can be a little bit sharp right after you cut them, so be careful. Also, you may want to round the edges that will come in contact with the wood so that they won't mar.

With this system, you can get 96 clamps out of one 8-foot section of pipe.

As for storing these clamps, I rip a 1"x1" pine stick and glue a 1"x3"x3" board perpendicular to the 1"x1" stick. You can simply slide the PVC Penny Clamps onto the 1"x1" stick to store them. If you add a C-Clam to the very end of the stick, it will keep them from falling off.

Anyway, that's my quick tip of the day. Hope you all find it helpful!

Displaced,

I have read and seen PVC pipe used as clamps, but haven't used them myself. Yet. Your directions are clear except on #2,


Cut just one side of the pipe, do not cut the pipe in half. Right? Not being picky, just wanted to point that out for anybody that hasn't seen them in use.

Welcome aboard by the way.

Chip

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A round pvc pipe running on a table saw is a dangerous item especially if the saw is a heavy duty floor model such as the big Deltas. Without a straight edge such as a 1x4 wooden plank attached to the pipe along side with a couple of screws keeping it in one continuous plane, the pipe may and can roll, bind and even kick back when it jams in a bind like a missile into your stomach if you are standing behind it.

Great tip. Thanks,
Now where do the displaced Yankee got wound up in?

Oyster,

Good point. I have also seen PVC explode and send sharp pieces flying when being cut to length with the wrong tool. How about clamping the pipe in place, pop a chalk line and use a jig saw with a thin metal cutting blade. The blade would have to be shortened for 1" pipe. Also, the cut would be much thinner resulting with just a little more pressure from the clamp.

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A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

Naw Oyster, you just have your buddy do the cutting and stand back!

Oyster is right on the money with his warning in this case. Also any slow down in the "ripping" process may cause the blade friction to heat and melt the pipe which may make the pipe stick to the blade even if there is no rolling, etc. Plastic pipe will want to "close up" once cut lenghtways which also increases the friction on the saw blade. This will cause the pipe to kick back even in very carefull sawing. I have the scars to prove it. The same holds true for ABS or any of the "plastic" products. Blade friction can also be dangerous even when cutting styrofoam on a table or radial saw although there is less chance of serious injury from kickback. It would be much safer practise to cut crosscut the pipe first and then cut the slot with a handsaw or bandsaw. Use the table saw to cut the materials that it was designed for and use common sense. I have had a 3 hp Delta Unisaw throw a sheet of 3/4 fir ply backwards about 30 feet when I wasn't paying attention. My head is still attached to my shoulders and I am much more careful now...
Blair

Grand Chillin,
Makita makes some jigsaw blades for plastic that work very well for plastic pipe. I have used them with great success in "plastic" pipe with a wall thickness up to 1"
Blair

Blair,

1" wall thickness, thats some serious pipe. What was it C900, HDPE, ?

_________________
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

Grand Chillin,
I don't recall what the pipe was. It wasn't HDPE (although they would cut that easily as well). We cast it into the bottom sections of precast concrete manholes so that horizontal pipe runs could be attached to it. These were made for a uranium mine in northern Saskatchewan. It was tough going to cut curved lines even with these blades, but it was the only way we could safely cut this stuff with any degree of accuracy. The pipe was too heavy to use stationary equipment and a circular saw generated too much friction (heat) and would bind up. I also cut a lot of PVC pipe (1/4"-3/4" wall with diameters of 6" up to 30" diameter) for "benching" manholes for city sewer applications.
Blair

The table saw blade needs to be set at the absolute minimum height and use a fine tooth blade with the straight edge. Shorter lengths can work better if you are free winging it. But even so this suggestion is a dangerous undertaking for the first timer. Depending on the wall thicknesses too, you may need to do several cuts too to achieve a wider opening to use in wider applications too. One cut does not always work for inwales of any thickness.

Experiementation should be part of what appears to be something simple and usefull. Four inch is better than three even though applications for smaller pipe for some jobs are needed. You can control the cutting process and you have a broader area to expand. Cabinet workers will also tell you about the sheet plywood missile.

I've had all kinds of stuff explode and shards even stab into a wall 15' away from me. Mostly its because of 'Operator Head space' in not holding, clamping, guiding etc. If you leave it some place to go, it'll begone!

On this Idea of making these clamps, which is good, I'd just cut the long piece into what you wanted for length as long as you had Six inches to rip any modification to the Guide and the pusher would keep the violence down.
On cutting the short pieces, I use the Chop saw.

Even if you do not need or wish to cut excessive amounts of pieces for backyard clamps, the further away from your saw, the better chance you have to control the part and the odds are better for long term original body parts too.

. Just rip a section of a longer piece and then cut off the section that you have ripped. I have personally found this to be a good practice for better control away from a running saw. I subscribe to this method for all my mouldings, saving as much of the large stuff for another day.

Whatever you do with a Saw, its quick and permanent ! No Mulligans with a saw.

I tried those PVC clamps, and couldnt get enough holding power to do much. I dont see the point in messing with 'em.

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