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Guys,

I need your opinions again. The plans call for 10' and 8' pieces of plywood butt joined with butt blocks for the sides. I was only able to get 8' plywood and when I test fitted them to the frame I discovered my problem.

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I was hoping to have about 3 inches to be able to use a small block, but I only have an inch. Here are my thoughts so far. Use fiberglass tape to make the joint or slide it back and have the joint land on the frame member.

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A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

What thickness is your plywood? I would not land your butt joint on the station. I have some thoughts but will await to see your thickness.

Oyster,

The plywood for the sides is 1/4". I had originally thought I would have a little more room according to my measurements.
Where did I go wrong you ask? I measured down the center and not along the sheer. Well no matter as I said I couldn't get 10' goods.
Hey, do you think a board stretcher would work on plywood.

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A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

Sure you can stretch the plywood. Did you buy any extra sheets or any hangover at the ends? Also did you measure from the other end and maybe gain an inch or so? Your fix is really an easy one. How wide is your side framing?

No extra. I bought the bare minimum. I'm flush on the transom and about 3" over on the stem and that joint is 1" forward of that station, so I can go back but not forward.



Do you mean the width of the framing as a whole or the thickness of the sheer and chine?

_________________
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

If you have 3 inches of plywood extra, now is the time to learn to scarf. If you wish to use a block, the three inch block after you adjust the pieces will be just fine with epoxy and a plywood block of at least 9mm. You will no longer need a butt block if you scarf though. Just do the 8 to 1 scarf which leaves you just shy a bit at the stem on each end. This also allows the scarf to be across the frame. Make sure the scarf hits the frame at the fat part and then fasten the plywood along the chines and the batten which I think you showed and glue the plywood to the frame. You can glass over the scarf too if you wish and if it will make you feel better.

Then just fill a piece which will be a small void at the top of the stem which will also be behind the rails. Report back after scanning this fix. If not there is more where this came from.

I figured that was coming and your right. The butt block won't work because the extra 3" is at the stem and I need to go forward. OK, Professor. I'm at my desk with pencil and paper ready. For an 8 to 1 scarf how far back do I need to place the top piece of plywood and if I have it right that distance will also be marked on the top piece. Thankfully, I have some small pieces of plywood from the tug that I can practice on.

_________________
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

8 to 1. Answer 4 inches. I even surprise myself sometimes.

_________________
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

Your electric Jig saw will do just about every thing you have to do with those angles and cross cuts.
The harder the wood, the finer the blade. Same with the thinner woods like 1/4" plywood.
The Skill saw on long cuts, use a Guide for your Skill Saw.
Any straight board you can clamp so the Rub rail on the Skill saw glides along the straight edge.

I cant help but volunteer that my favorite Go-to Guy for quick, dirty and ugly is my SawZall though.

I've been building things the Dog wont go in, using that method for years

Somethng that impress' me about Grand Chllin's top photo. Did you see that he has as much lumber tied up in Saw Horse's and braces as he does wood for the boat.
Boy is the wife gonna be happy when she can have her Garage back!

Thud,

I'm very proud of my sawhorses. There are 6 of them and I want more. They cost me maybe $9.00 a pair and get this they are stackable. And as far as the garage goes she lost it years ago to the kids. I ask her last year if I overtook it from them could I have it and she told me "to charge that hill." Since my victory I have been building things for her, including this boat. Somedays, I wish the kids would launch a counter attack.

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A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

LOL, maybe as soon as the Grandkids need a playroom.....

I like your saw horses. I built mine cheaply. You have two parts to your top beam, I only had one 2X4. But I have the legs similar to yours. Mine are not really stackable though. Not unless you can call a jumbled pile of whacky looking legs n' sticks a Stack!

You go two inches into each end which reduces the scarfed pieces by four inches. So just center the scarfed sheet which leaves you one inch to make up at each end. With the stem angles this is really no big deal for the filler pieces . If you wish tab the outside of your stems vertically. Practice doing some before doing them on the good sheet. Jimmy W has some pictorials somewhere on here about backing the edge cross ways so that you get a solid support for a clean joint. Dry fit everything and mark lines for alignment across the joint lengthways and crossways before you glue up. Sight down the edges of the two sheets too, making sure that both have some form of a straight line, another important factor.


If you have a sheet that is even a 1/4" off, this transfers to some out of alighnment even though you do have working range in movement when applying and gluing in place when ready. The added lines keeps things aligned when you are working with glue and fastening in place since the wood will have a type of "oil" with the wetted and thickened glue. use a thin line sharpie or a good bold pencil that dull so you get something that you can see when you are gluing.


I run two screws at edge edge so that I have a starting point when gluing up after I get things like I like it in the dry state so that when I glue up I have an easy reference point.

Who do you think I built the Tubby Tug for. That's right my new recruits. Privates Larry, Moe and Curly. I love being a Dad, but this other job is a blast.

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I found the plans for the saw horses online and they are solid too.

Oyster,

It looks like I have a homework assignment for tonight.

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A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

Cute picture!



You assignment is as follows. Read several times if need be. I am on my fifth cup of coffee, so this is a bit long. First thing you do is to walk up to the plywood thats sitting on the form. Take framing square and draw a line using the two inch wide side which is a normal number on the piece thats hanging over three inches at the stem.

Then remove the other sheet and mark your line at the point where the hangover sheet is temporarily in place on the chines and flush with the stem after you move it foward. This is for reference if you want to reverse the pieces in the second phase if you do not like how this first assignment comes out.

From your reply about the piece hanging over three inches, then with the scarf you should be about 1//2" on both ends centered when done with the glued up piece if in fact, your stem rakes are the same. If not we maybe able to pick up the difference in the experiental phase of this in the dry fit step.


This will also show up when reversing from what you have described with a four inch scarf and three inch hangover now.


Now take the piece that you have removed and place on the line that you drew on the corresponding sheet and temporarily clamp in place along the chines. Now go down and look at where that piece ends up.

Now if you like that, then thats the position you want it to be when glued up. If you do not like this position of the two pieces and you need to have a larger piece at the other end for fill, then just reverse the two doing the same and see what you have at the other end where you placed the first piece flush in the first place.

Check and see how short your pieces are at the minimum end and then divide this which then creates the position in which to glue up the scarfed and glued up sheet when done.

Why wasn't homework this much fun when I was in school. To practice I took a 3 1/2" wide piece of 1/4" plywood made my 2" set back marks on both, clamped and went to town. If I can help it I will never do a butt block again. I can't wait to take the big test tomorrow on the 19" wide plywood, who knows I might go on to get a degree in scarfing. A B.S. degree that is and I'm not talking science.

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Oyster,
I did as you suggested and marked the one piece of plywood and lined the forward piece with that mark. The board stretcher worked. After I do the scarf I should have a extra 1/2" past the stem.

_________________
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!