Glen-L.com

In the neverending quest for speed I would like to experiment with engine positions and props and whatnot, so I have my jackplate which will allow me to run the engine as high as I may need it to go, and I know that Arneson style surface drives are some of the 'faster' drives when compared to Alphas and Bravos, and they use cleaver style props. Is it feasible to try to run a cleaver prop on the Nissan 15HP outboard I just bought? I know they are made for the smaller engines for sure. I assume a low water pickup would be needed to run the engine at the optimum height for the cleaver prop to have maximum effect? Does anyone have any experience with these props on a small boat?

With a 15 hp engine, we are not talking about a race engine. Sure hydroplanes are quick with small engines, but most of those have been tweeked too unless we are talking about novice type hulls which are built for pleasure. With the smaller hp engines, weight and bottom design plays a role in speeds. The flatter your bottom and the higher the speeds, handling does come into play.

Understandable. I should probably try it with what it's got before I go changing props

Search Ron Hill on Ebay. Or google too.

You would probably have to modify the whole lower unit. Add a modified nose cone, LWP's, maybe some carbon reeds? Oh and some ambition too!

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Tuffy with '75 Merc 650 SS.

Scott I have emailed Ron Hill and I joined his forum as well. I have Boyesen carbon fiber reeds and a velocity stack on order I have looked into the nose cones but I can't find anything specifically for this engine, and I don't really want to drop the dough on something that won't fit just right

Exactly - Money.

Contact Bobs Machine Shop for lower unit questions.

Nissans do have potential. So do Yamaha's. Which brings me to show you this site if you haven't already found it.

http://www.yamaha-rebuild.com/Yamaha%20High%20Perf.htm

Above water exhaust could help out too. If you're willing to cut and drill some holes and annoy your neighbors.

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Tuffy with '75 Merc 650 SS.

Ron Hill said he has props for my engine. Any pics of the holes/cutting needed for above water exhaust?

Use care when hacking holes for exhaust.

2-smokers (excluding Wankels) rely on exhaust tune for proper scavenging. Detuning the system will do far more damage than good. You really need to get a shop experienced in porting/tuning and piping your particular engine. Drilling, and grinding away will absolutely result in being the proud owner of an anchor with a recoil starter handle.

To make it work properly, you need a port map, know your target RPM range, intake volume, and velocity, venturi flow characteristics, then last, not care about the noise tickets. the builder spent a fortune making it run and be legal, random holes are not going to do it any good at all.

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Some plan to stroll through Saint Peter's Gates, I plan to go through them at 150mph... backwards... in a screaming ball of flame, with a glimmer belt wrapped around my head, and a NOx button in my hand.

Here are some links to prop shops below:

http://www.bblades.com/

http://www.hillmarine.com/

http://stores.ebay.com/Ron-Hill-Propellers

http://www.ptprop.com/ (<<< They offer smaller SS props)

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Tuffy with '75 Merc 650 SS.

I see that Ron Hill has a nose cone for Yamaha for "15 to 75HP."

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nose-Cone-Evinrude-Yamaha-Outboard-Racing-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ390115024494QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear

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Paul Miller in Memphis, TN
"Yeah, I had lunch with him last week at the Cracker Barrel out on I-40."

You can get a nose cone on smaller outboards (like a sportmaster gearcase) for just shy of $500 US for prep, labour and shipping back to you. Apparently its harder than a larger gearcase. Probably because of how little of space you have to work with. Thats what it was for my 65 merc anyways.

Satin coat finish is the fastest apparently to performance enthusiasts.

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Tuffy with '75 Merc 650 SS.