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 Post subject: which boat to build
PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 9:17 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2010 6:08 am
Posts: 2
Hello everyone. New to this form and I must say there is alot of great information on this site. Well my plans are to build a boat but im having trouble choosing which boat I want to build. I want something in the lines of a Riva or a frauscher 757 St. Tropez. Keeping the classic lines and making it modern. I have looked at the plans and I have narrowed it down to the Tahoe 23 and the Riviera. But I have some questions. out of the two boats which one is the deepest of the two. And out of the two which seems to carry more of the classic lines that im wanting. I know that this Bill guy built a Tahoe 23 and it seems that everyone really likes the look of it but I cant find any pictures of it on the net. I have tried to find it on you tube but no luck. If anyone could help it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks everyone.
Matt R


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 Post subject: Re: which boat to build
PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 9:56 am 
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Joined: Sat Jul 04, 2009 3:50 pm
Posts: 3653
Location: Branson, MO
If you are looking at those lines, then definitely go with the Tahoe. Both boats are unbelievably similar in size with the exception of the reverse transom on the Tahoe

Bill E's Tahoe is listed in several places.

Webletter 88
Photo Gallery under Tahoe 19

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Dave

My Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project

Video of Midnight in Action
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Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.


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 Post subject: Re: which boat to build
PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 12:40 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 08, 2006 5:21 pm
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Location: tarpon springs fl
I think that maybe he's referring to Bill Yonescu's Tahoe modification

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Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
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 Post subject: Re: which boat to build
PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 12:45 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2005 6:45 am
Posts: 5982
Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
Bill Y's boat was a highly modified Tahoe, scaled up 17% and to have a square transom for a I/O unit.

My boat is the Tahoe 19, built 20'-6". Butch Barto's boat is the Tahoe 23, built 24'.
Pictures of both are in WL #88.

The link below will take you to my construction pictures.

Bill

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Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build


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 Post subject: Re: which boat to build
PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 1:18 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 17, 2006 8:55 am
Posts: 239
Location: Cartersville, Ga.
At one time Bill Yonescu had a website. I think it was mahoganyrunabouts.com or something similar.

I think there are pictures of his boat in the G2 photo album.

David


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 Post subject: Re: which boat to build
PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 2:29 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 04, 2009 3:50 pm
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Location: Branson, MO
I saw that boat in the archives the other day. It looked like a modified Tahoe. His websites are down.

I understand Bill Y had some health issues and stopped building.

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Dave

My Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project

Video of Midnight in Action
Blog

Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.


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 Post subject: Re: which boat to build
PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 5:29 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2010 6:08 am
Posts: 2
I found his boat on you tube and man was that a nice boat!!!! That’s what I’m looking to build. Couple of questions for everyone I want to paint the whole boat is there a cost saving I could do if I’m not looking to get the wood look? Could I build the frames as the plans then add the plywood to the correct thickness then fiberglass then paint? Could I use grade A exterior plywood ripped into strips and not use marine grade? Also I’m having a very hard time locating wood to build the frames. I’m from Kentucky and around here all we have is #2 spruce I think. It has small tight knot holes.
Thanks everyone for their input
Matt


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 Post subject: Re: which boat to build
PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 6:05 pm 
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Location: Branson, MO
Matt - I know you have white oak in KY. I would be hesitant to use any construction grade lumber

dave

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Dave

My Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project

Video of Midnight in Action
Blog

Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.


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 Post subject: Re: which boat to build
PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 6:38 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2005 6:45 am
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Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
Matt,

There will be very little difference in cost to build clear or paint. You may be able to work with a little less care if you go paint. These boats are cold mold designs. The cost difference of the top layer being Mahogany or good marine grade ply is very small, after cutting the strips.

Good marine paints and good marine varnish or clearcoat cost aboat the same!

Bill

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Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build


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 Post subject: Re: which boat to build
PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 7:12 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 02, 2006 7:10 pm
Posts: 4394
Location: North Carolina
The labor is just one area in which building clear finish boats cost more indirectly.

But for sure in addition to the actual labor, the selection of proper woods and handling and resawing, matching the planks there is some additional time for prepping the woods and the dry fitting that takes place. You can use almost any plywood that has rescornsinol glues as long as its a good quality and solid veneers under the skins.

The problem with choosing some of the ordinary woods is the overall finished weights and the amount of preperation for the finish topcoats even after you glass, as the faces and grains are not as smoothe. This requires a lot more fairing and thicker primers too and lots more sanding in most cases to achieve a surface to apply shiny paints. If you have avaliable to you a good resaw bandsaw, you can create solid planking using some of the cedars and use these to glue up your layers of laminates.

But even with laminating layers and then just glass and paint, you do need to take care in the fitting and fairing of each layer and even fair each layer with longboards or good file sanders depending on the hull shapes so that you do not get telegraphing of uneven surfaces which increases as you apply more layers.


All of this also requires a lot of epoxy to fix uneven areas if you forgo these steps, which also adds work. Keep in mind, the more resin you use, the more dead weight and in some circumstances you still end up sanding off a lot on the surfaces if you are required to fair the hullsides to fix crevices ot uneveness.


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