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I agree with BayouBengal, aka Jeff. His auto clear finish on his deck professionally sprayed has to be about the easiest way to get an amazing looking finish. So let me tell you sometimes I really wish I went the auto clear sprayed route. So look into that, you could even have the bottom sprayed too with color, maybe someone could come do that in your garage. That would be a amazing finish top and bottom! Just more for you to ponder I guess.

The only downside is I couldnt do the spray myself, so I would have to pay for someone to do it and I cant really repair it myself properly either then, but it sure looks sweet! I bet a professional could knock it out in just a couple days. It took me a month at least to do the sides and deck with SM. The sides went perfect first time but the deck took me 5 tries to get right.

Charles, this is why I tried to convince you to make the trek to the Gathering if even for a day but I think you had a conflict with something else that weekend. Nothing beats being able to see all the different finishes in person and talk to the folks who use and apply them.

As for your other question. I used half a gallon of blue on my bottom and right at a gallon of clear on the sides and deck.

CA

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"Nothing screams poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape."

Actually not, the clearcoat should be fairly easy to repair. Unless you really get a deep gash, you'll simply wet sand out the scratch with 2000 grit, then repolish.

You probably will need someone to spray it. While I didn't actually spray it, the spraying technique didn't look all that difficult to master. However, the spray gun used (specifically designed to spray clearcoat) is a $600 dollar gun. You also need an enclosed area that you don't mind messing up, because the clearcoat goes everywhere. So, it's probably not worth buying the gun and setting up an area unless you're going to do a lot of spraying.

It took longer than that, but most of the work is in sanding, cleaning, and taping. It only takes a few moments to apply the spray once the boat is prepped. Maybe you can find someone who'll spray it with you doing all the time consuming work and not charge you too much.

Another forum member posted regarding his problems with SM 1000, he seemed to be convinced it was the greatest paint to ever see a boat. The paint shop he hired to spray it had all sorts of troubles, and from his explanations it sounded like old school Alkyd enamel to me. It is a 1 componant paint.
I just did a search on SM1000. I got the MSDS sheet off their website. I wouldnt paint anything of high quality with this stuff. This is 31% mineral spirits (emamel reducer) and is in fact an alkyd enamel, it says so on the MSDS. therefore why pay a premium for a alkyd emamel? There is so many other better paints on the market why do this?

If you feel the need to use Supermarine brand clear, then choose the SM266. This is a true 2-componant paint, much higher quality. I pulled the MSDS and yes this is the good stuff! It is made with butyls, ketones, and isocyanates. You DO NEED respirator protection to use this stuff, it will make you sick without resopirator. But, this is the high quality paint.
I am not a paint chemist, but I have good many years experience painting cars, aircraft & boats, I spray them all, I dont understand roll & tip. But I DO understand spraying.

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Bingo, early on I compared the product with Brightsides and even Toplac, which is touted as the best non two part paint ever invented. I almost think that Toplac has kerosene in it from the smell of it. It normally takes six thin coats, [viscosity is really thin by comparison to a lot of other paints for brushing] of Brightsides to satisfy my lust and eye to obtain a super duper finish Then you still need to repaint in two to three years if your boat leaves the trailer for at least hundred hours average a year. [Sorry if this reply is like 80 grit sandpaper to anyone]


I don't wetsand or buff any paint except Imron unless I plan on repainting the next season. Of course I actually use my boats for about ten months a year in salt water and catch fish and dig clams and oysters with rusty clam rakes too. YMMV>

Ken, Yes, I think we have all learned not to spray SM paint. But for rolling its quite easy for us newbies to get an appearance that almost looks sprayed without having those skills and tools available. I dont know about all the chemical stuff but I have noticed the SM doesnt seem to hold up as well as other in the areas where it contacts the bunks and slides off and on the trailer. Not sure if other paint brands have that issue or not. In the short time I have used my boat thats the only wear I have seen.

Jeff, Thanks for clearing up my concerns about the auto clear. Just thinking out loud, you are really making me wish I went that route.

Charles, are you even more undecided now than when you started asking?

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"Nothing screams poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape."

I used the Perfection on boat #1 and two years later when I sold it it looked as good as new. I used Perfection Plus on the Squirt deck. I rolled and tipped (first time - I usually spray) because I had seen others with great results from the method and cleaning the spray gun is a pain (I use an HVLP). I was able to get it pretty slick but it required much more sanding and polishing than does when I spray. Maybe with practice I could get it right with roll and tip. Afterall, it took lots of practice to get spraying right.

KB

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OUCCHHHHH. But I learned my lesson. I got the opinion from looking at Griz's boat. That paint job is wonderful and working very well for him

But the stuff is not up to speed. It has gotten hard and holding up well. But the application is terrible.

I am going to strip the stuff off and go with the tried and true.

dave

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Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.

YMMV but if you want any toughness in a clear UV finish you really need to apply a 2 pack product. the perfection plus has the advantage over the automotive in that you can apply it without elaborate spray equipment. Another possible alternative is the system three waterbourne LPU which is even more friendly to clean up but much more difficult to apply well.
both finishes have held up well to this point for me. the Belle has the System three on it and my kayak has Perfection Plus.
-Billy

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I don't think there's anything to keep you from doing it. You'd need to consult an expert to ensure they're compatible, but I expect you could apply clearcoat over what you have. Of course there's nothing wrong with the finish you have now so I'd leave it as is, but when it comes time to recoat you might consider getting it sprayed with clearcoat.

Pssssss, slip closely to the screen and listen carefully. His boat is stored in a "museum" with running water, kitchen facilities, showers, head, and his day job is to talk to it, stroke it, and take a toothbrush to the crevices using a miners cap searchlight to search out and destroy any and all inperfections and crude. When all else fails he rolls out his weekday truck and takes it to the ramp at 15 mph and slips it gently into the water, deepwater too and sips mint julieps for the day.
The last time I talked to him, he was still hard at work in the museum removing dust from his paddlefans and mounted deer eyes on the wall too.

Ok, if it wasn't for the wife needing the computer last night, I would have placed my order for the Supermarine products... had my list and everything... sounds like I dodged a bullet there!

I am definitely wanting something that it more maintenance friendly, even if it requires a little more elbow grease now. I have a 1yr old and another on the way, and I'd rather boat with them, than have them PO'd daddy's in the garage yet again, redoing his finish...

So, sounds like the Interlux products are the way to go (tried and true).
I'll get the Perfection Plus Urethane, and hopefully will have access to spray.
But what about the paint? Is there one type of Interlux paint that is frequently used/known to be good?

And what about quantities for the malahini? With Supermarine, I think it was like 2 quarts for bottom paint, 1 quart for bootstripe, 2 quarts primer.... Is it about the same for the Interlux?

Forgive me, but Iggy spoiled me by giving me the quantities, product numbers, etc...

Finally, is there a specific supplier people like to use more than others? Billy listed the Jamestown link... are they competitively priced with other suppliers? (Seems like in my experience Jamestown is usually pretty pricy...)

Thanks
Charles

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my java ramble for the morining...

All two part paints require a surface that is close to flawless because of the shine that it gives off. There are flattening agents that I also like to use in the paints on certain wooden boats that relieves some of the shine yet gives you some durability without compromising the intent of the paints, longivity and cleaning from use at the end of the day. In some of the builds that you intend on using as a family toy with small kids, you may not want to use the paint on those types of boats unless its the exterior part of the hull either.


My fishing garvey is done that way and the paint is still going strong after ten years too using awlquip paints. So if you plan to use two part paints, undercoating and prep work will be more critical and probably 80 percent of the work.


Its expensive to have your cards in order and be patient before you apply. I also thin out a coat of the product a bit to check the hull before I apply it for the finish coat. This gives you a good idea of your surface even though it will flatten out a bit, but will show highs and lows when sanded for the final coats. I also like to use a darker paint or a dusting of laquer called a tracer coat for sanding on light color paints. This will show any flaws that you have missed in the fairing process. Block the hull too if you have a long and flexible board with fine paper. Then use a hand soft block with finer paper over than, hand blocking the surface.

Ok, so I just checked out Jamestown's website and there are 19 different Interlux bottom paints... HELP!

Also, what primer is best used with whatever paint is correct?

And I also heard someone (Maybe Billy) mention a cleaning product...

Bottom line, I need to get my paint ordered, my decent weather is waning...

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i gave you the Jamestown site because if you look below the product, they give you good detailed instructions on application and thinners, primers,cleaners etc. that you need where ebay you'll just see the product but may find a better price.
if you are not in the water for the season the Perfection Plus should hold its own on the bottom too
-Billy

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I think it is unfair to say the 2pack paints require better surface prep. The final paint job regardless of the type used, is only as good as the sanding & prep work underneath.
Here is an analogy:
1. If you do a mediocre sanding/prep job then topcoat it with AwlGrip (or any 2pack) then the final paint job will only be mediocre.
2. If you do a fine quality prep job then topcoat it with plain alkyd (or any 1pack) then the final paint job will look fine.

In my experiences with paint, I will say that the cheapest Brand X two part paint is by far superior to the most expensive Brand Y single pack paint. On my boat I used 2pack primer and 2pack topcoat, I got the cheap stuff online. It looks good and holds up too. and it is one helluva lot cheaper than $100/gallon for brand name alkyd.

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