Glen-L.com

Well I am working on a lighter boat than before.
This Idea came from the Old Town Vapor 12XT Angler.
I took this pic. at the Bass Pro Shop, the 10' version.


And here are my drawings figuring a frame every 12''.


I transfered the frame lines to pcs. of 1/4'' ply. bandsawed them out sanded them on the edge sander and traced them onto 3/4 ply. and made the frames.


The front or bow.


And from the stern


Can't wait to get them mounted to a stiff back to get a better idea if they are going to work.
The beam is figured at 30'' and the depth at the center of the sides is 9 1/2'' to the sheer.

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THE FRAUD WILL NOT GO AWAY..9-11 WAS AN INSIDE JOB...
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Can't wait to see this one come about too!

_________________
Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream

Steve-
are you thinking cedar on this one? looks like it would work easier with a rolling bevel rather than B&C as you could vary your strip widths to fit those sharper angles around the forms.
-Billy

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(insert witty phrase here)
Billy's Belle Isle website

Yea I'm not going to bead and cove the strips.
I got the stiff back done.


I ripped the strips from free cedar.

Free used 8' fence pickets ha.. thought I would see how much I could get and probably enough for 2 boats.
Ripped the pcs. to 1'' widths first. then to 1/4 thick all with my feeder. Been doing this for years only in the cabinet industry they are called scribe moulding.


The nail holes will add to the character.. what the heck function before beauty.

A small portion of the left over scrap.


You should see under the table saw

_________________
THE FRAUD WILL NOT GO AWAY..9-11 WAS AN INSIDE JOB...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZEvA8BCoBw

http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r302 ... rd_photos/

Steve-
that "free" cedar looks pretty clear... you'll be putting more holes in it as you build anyway
pretty sweet ripping with a feeder!
don't forget to tape around your building forms to keep them from sticking is that the true sheer line where your forms end?

-Billy

_________________
(insert witty phrase here)
Billy's Belle Isle website

The progress.


Notice the sheer line mark on form 11.

_________________
THE FRAUD WILL NOT GO AWAY..9-11 WAS AN INSIDE JOB...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZEvA8BCoBw

http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r302 ... rd_photos/

Well this has been one of the most learning experiences of my 30 years of wood working. I can appreciate all the hard work that goes into designing strip type hulls and all the tweaking and getting the bugs worked out of a design before the forms are perfect. And the sequence of laying the strips down when it gets tighter toward the bow. I have worked myself into a corner "so-to-speak" and using a steam iron to bend and twist has been necessary. Now it is really tight. Oh well it will have it's own personality and it's just a fishing boat anyway...

_________________
THE FRAUD WILL NOT GO AWAY..9-11 WAS AN INSIDE JOB...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZEvA8BCoBw

http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r302 ... rd_photos/

Steve-
looks like you are making great progress
one of these would really help


add a little moisture to your strip and heat from the heat gun and you can twist that cedar like a pretzel!
also slicing some of your strips in half where your forms roll over curves less than the width of your 3/4" strips would keep things closer to your pattern.
-Billy

_________________
(insert witty phrase here)
Billy's Belle Isle website

look into a steam shark floor clear Reberta had really good luck with it in bending wood

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Don't be afraid to attempt anything. You might surprise your self in the attempt.
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Modified Jubilee-"Wild Flower" 40' house boat
14' Mr John-Wild Flower 2
32' Supper Huck- Wild flower 3

Rod H

The iron worked on these 1'' wide strips. time to sand

_________________
THE FRAUD WILL NOT GO AWAY..9-11 WAS AN INSIDE JOB...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZEvA8BCoBw

http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r302 ... rd_photos/

Man, that is really nice, I am impressed that you made the forms. I have built several canoes this way. I am lucky, I have a little ol man just down the road with a wood mizer. cedar trees are free around here. Last I saw he was charging about a dollar a bf to mill it. 100.00 and wood left over. yea! I would've kept on bending at the sheer though, I love the herringbone the ends make when you do it. I bead and cove on the sharp bends at the sheer, but don't on the flats. I'm lovin your work.

Thanks for all the comments guys..This was one difficult project, the hull looks good but the strip configuration I ended up doing is a hodge podge looking thing. The 1'' wide strips didn't help much but I'm ok with it. A light-weight Ozark stream kayak is what I wanted and "it will see rocks" so what the heck.

Just waiting on the epoxy to arrive...

Have you guys heard of adding graphite to the epoxy for an added durable hull below the water line?

_________________
THE FRAUD WILL NOT GO AWAY..9-11 WAS AN INSIDE JOB...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZEvA8BCoBw

http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r302 ... rd_photos/

I have seen it done, it colors the bottom, the one I saw was yellow, might have been kevlar or something other than graphite. If you intend to use the thing it would be worth doing. the Mainers don't have the rocks we do in our Ozark and Oucita mountain rivers, gotta be tough. I just take my striper up for everbody to ohh and ahh over, then rent a rubber boat to bang up. I will use it in the lake and for fishing in still water with no rocks though. I built a Chris craft replica using the method. wows em where ever we go..

lots of kayakers add the graphite to make the bottom more slippery so it slides rather than digs when bouncing over objects. they claim UV protection also (not sure on that one... but plenty of info on the epoxy sites) as far as increased durability adding abrasion strips at the wear points is the only answer
-Billy

_________________
(insert witty phrase here)
Billy's Belle Isle website

steve if you could get some teflon paint for the botom it would work i just dont know if you can buy it any where we use it at work for all the sliding surfaces to protect them from abrasion and i can tell you from experiance that when you sand on it with 80 grit all you do is buff it to a shine the tuff is hard as a rock!!!!!!!!!!!!!