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 Post subject: Re: KidYak
PostPosted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 8:48 pm 
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Location: Branson, MO
Are you cross-eyed with the CPES fumes? :shock: :evil:

Now that you have it sealed what will be the final finish?

dave

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My Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project

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 Post subject: Re: KidYak
PostPosted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 9:00 pm 
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Location: Ridge Spring, SC
Dave :roll:
Chicken grease of course. :wink: :lol:

I still haven't tried the two part perfection on the Kid Row. I guess I will try it and see.

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 Post subject: Re: KidYak
PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 8:42 pm 
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Location: Ridge Spring, SC
I was real pleased how the first coat of Brightsides went on in the cockpit, but then started thinking about the little ones slipping. I ended up buying some non skid paint additive ( real fine sand in a bag :roll: ) put on a second coat and then used a empty onion powder bottle to spread the non skid evenly on top of the wet paint. :D Debating now about putting a coat of paint on top of the non skid to lock it in. Tonight I taped off a 3' section next to the front bulkhead and applyed a thin coat of paint to see if it doesn't cover the sand up too much. We will see tomorrow.
Attachment:
Kid Yak 101.jpg
Kid Yak 101.jpg [ 1.31 MiB | Viewed 407 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: KidYak
PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 12:20 am 
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Location: Milner Ga.
chillin if i had know you were going to do that i could of saved you some time the way we do the wing walks on the planes is to mixe the fine sand into the paint and roll it on as you would normally would and you get an even coat with out the head ache of trying to spread the sand evenly by hand also we do back it up with a coat on top it and does just fine.


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 Post subject: Re: KidYak
PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 5:32 am 
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Location: North Carolina
There are only two types of non skid to use and that is the Awlquip brand Grip tex and now Interlux makes a simular product that neither mimics sand. Adding the proper and expensive non skid works much better. Let the non skid sit in the paint for about twenty minutes so that the paint is sucked into the blend and this allows the topcoat paint and skid to weather and not show discolored skid, like what happens to so many of the fine sand materials thats sold. Stir occasionally while sitting before application and while you are rolling it on the larger areas.

I also topcoat after the coat cures without a problem the next day in cooler climates. In warmer climates if you paint early am, you can probably recoat mid afternoon depending on how thick your first coat was applied and what type of paint you are using. There is one exception that I have found and that is I don't use this method on straight rustoleum enamel type paints. Those usually takes longer cure times and is thicker. So thin the first coat..


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 Post subject: Re: KidYak
PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 10:33 am 
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Guys,
Thanks for the tips. This was a last minute move and the sand was the first thing I thought about. :roll: :oops: I'll let the troops wear it off and then do it the right way. :wink: :D

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 Post subject: Re: KidYak
PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 8:25 pm 
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Well it's time to mess with some fiberglass cloth. You can't tell from the pictures, but I have duct tape covering the top 1/2" of the sides. This will provide a straight edge to trim the glass once it turns green. Another one of Oyster's tips. :D That is the Admiral herself helping me smooth out the cloth. :shock:
Attachment:
Kid Yak 102.jpg
Kid Yak 102.jpg [ 1.46 MiB | Viewed 377 times ]

All trimmed and ready to go.
Attachment:
Kid Yak 103.jpg
Kid Yak 103.jpg [ 1.39 MiB | Viewed 377 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: KidYak
PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 2:03 am 
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Wet out complete. I was able to get the cloth to lay down at the bow, but I knew it wouldn't do the same at the little stern or the "Hiney" as I like to call it. :D One other thing. We trimmed the cloth too short in some places and while working the epoxy we would grab the end of the cloth. :oops:


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Kid Yak 105.jpg
Kid Yak 105.jpg [ 1.4 MiB | Viewed 372 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: KidYak
PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 10:43 am 
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Location: tarpon springs fl
Looks great Chip...great job!! :D

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 Post subject: Re: KidYak
PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 10:51 am 
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Location: North Carolina
You are supposed to leave a little extra along the cutoff edges even though finish cloth stretches a bit. This always gives you a clean edge to cut to and gives you a wee bit to check for proper bonding too in the cure stage of it. Sorry, you are going to need to go back and take it all off and start over. :P Of course your next boat will be perfect, cause you never make the same mistake twice, right?


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 Post subject: Re: KidYak
PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 11:00 am 
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I know I never have!!! :roll: :roll: :wink:

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 Post subject: Re: KidYak
PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 11:28 am 
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Oyster wrote:
Sorry, you are going to need to go back and take it all off and start over.

Well Oyster,
It wasn't fun removing the cured glass, but I was able to do it will little damage to the hull. :wink: :roll: Here is my second attempt all trimmed. :D If at first you don't succeed, try , try again. :lol:
Attachment:
Kid Yak 107.jpg
Kid Yak 107.jpg [ 1.39 MiB | Viewed 357 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: KidYak
PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 7:55 pm 
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The last of the fill coats are done on the hull. I will let it cure for about a week and the sanding will begin. :D In the mean time I still have the deck to glass.
Attachment:
Kid Yak 112.jpg
Kid Yak 112.jpg [ 1.42 MiB | Viewed 336 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: KidYak
PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 5:03 am 
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Location: North Carolina
Nice job,,, I surely hope the sawhorses, which looks a little shakey, hold up under all the weight and not mess up all that work. :wink: :lol:


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 Post subject: Re: KidYak
PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 6:11 am 
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Location: tarpon springs fl
Nice job Chip!!
(esp with all the cold and damp you had!!)

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