Glen-L.com

This will probably be the last progress for 6 or 7 months as we are trying to sell our house and I have to get the new house finished. After we're settled in I have to build another shop to move the boat into. Don't expect to get back at it untill about september.
Doug

Take you're time.You already know it will be worth it in the end.Good luck with the new place and boat.

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A boat is a hole in the water in which I throw money into.

Love the build! Was the motor new? Thinking about the same motor package.Have the plans coming for the Titan and am thinking about making it 23'+-?

Sorry Tugmyway, responded to your post in new members before I saw this one.
I wouldn't stretch past the recommended 21'6" as I think you would run into some problems. The beam keeps it legally trailerable also.
The motor is a new one and the dealer supplied the bellhousing and tranny adapters at reasonable cost. The trans is a ZF 10.
I'm going with a keel cooler and dry stack exhaust to keep it simple. I had the same engine in a tractor and they are super....fuel efficient, quiet , and cool running.
Doug

Dear slug,
I too am interested in cooling our 23' barrel back runabout build with a keel cooler.
Please let us know where you found yours, or the one you plan to use. I can only find those designed for ships.

Thanks in advance,
Grampa Steve

Steve; I'm planning on having one built in stainless similar to Fernstrum's L Series, (see their website ) with in and out tubes on the same end. Will use 1/2 by 1" rect. thin wall tube with a manifold on each end. The forward one with the feed from and to the motor will be partitioned so the coolant has to run the length of the cooler and return on the other half.

Dave Gerr had an excellent article on the process in Professional Boatbuilding some time ago, with a formula for the surface area required per horsepower,but we have just moved and I can't find it. Try searching in other forums,and you'll probably find it.
Doug

Steve; That article by Dave Gerr was in the Feb/Mar issue 2008. You can probably get it from their back issue order system.

Keel coolers are usually used with displacement type hulls and slow boats as they hang out under the boat. They will interfer with a planning type hull. However I bet they work pretty good in the right application.

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John Amundsen
Monte Carlo
Winter Haven, FL

Maybe it will be done by G6 and maybe not.

The side and bottom are 1/4" plywood?

Sides and bottom of hull are two layers of 1/4" marine ply. I used 24 sheets.
I used Douglas fir for the frames and wouldn't do it again, regardless of cost. Anything else would be better, especially for the battens.
Doug

Doug,do you think a bow thruster could be put ahead of bulkhead 9?

Great job!
Interested in everydetail of your build

More pictures!

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Titan 21'6" Tug in progress

mhack; Just now getting back at it. ( with a vengeance ) .
Just bought a small tig welder today to weld up my own tanks and will also do the keel cooler. Just can't afford the quotes I've been getting. ( ie quote for the rudder.. a schilling design..$1190 and $1172.) So far I have $81 in the water jet cut top and bottom plates ( 4 altogether ) and $110 in th 1 1/2 stainless shaft. Figure about another $200 for the side plates.
I have simplified the tank designs (fuel and waste holding) to make fabricating simpler and the parts are being sheared and bent as soon as the shop can fit it in.
Will be ordering the keek kooler parts this week also.
Quote from Fernstrum was $1500 for the cooler.
I'll be getting onto the woodworking while I'm waiting for metals.
Doug

Amazing progress so far
You are lucky you can weld..

I can do fiberglass and some wood work, metal work - not so much

Is there any particular reason you don't want to use prebuilt plastic tanks?

I even seen coolers built in to the bottom of the hull, fairly simple plate design in aft section on production jet boat (18-23)..

My plans supposedly shipping tomorrow

BTW, any advise on the strongback structure (after you've done it)? Anything to help with turn over, or any other considirations? What kind of lumber did you use for that?

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Titan 21'6" Tug in progress

Mhack; I used regular spruce lumber for the strongback and screwed it right to the cement floor.
For turning the hull, I had built 4 hooks into the building trusses when I built them so that I could use 4 chain hoists. I did the same thing in the new shop. It makes life easy for lifting, and also fitting to the trailer. I will also be able to lift the stern to fit the rudder shaft.
I need to build the fuel tanks due to the odd shape of the space allowed.

Doug