Glen-L.com

Well the frames are on the strongback except for the transom frame and chines are cut. Now I've got to hang the transom and I'm a bit confused.

I do not see a gusset on the plans for the transom frame. I assume I glue the frame to the transom board. Correct? or do I come up with a gusset, tie all together with the chines and then attach the transom board?

I epoxied the transom frame directly to the transom plywood.

Make sure you cut out the frame to accept the chine & sheer, but do not cut the transom ply out for the chine or shear.

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Malahini Build Gallery:

http://picasaweb.google.com/11229065623 ... directlink

Yep... I epoxied my transom frame lumber to my transom plywood. Cut out the chine and sheer notches like Charles (Onplane) said otherwise its a royal pain to do later.

You can also epoxy on the motor board at the same time. I did... made my transom pretty heavy but I prefered doing it on a flat surface.

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Ian (aka Iggy)
My Malahini Build

How about batten notches? Does this design call for them now?

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Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream

Definately pre-cut Batten notches as well.. good catch!

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Ian (aka Iggy)
My Malahini Build

thanks, confirms my thought. So how do you hold the transom in place for fitting the chine and sheer. It looks like, from pictures, its held in by temporarily attaching the battons to each frame. Is this correct?

I did not build my frames or hull, but I can take pictures of the transom area if you need anything specific. The guy who did build it was an experienced builder and this was not his first boat. I think onplane (Charles) has some good photos of his.

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2011 MALAHINI - KICKED IN THE HEAD

I wake up with a 16ft woody every morning
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=534DBtp1Cnc
Website: https://sites.google.com/site/2011malahini/

For my transom I used temporary screws as well as a support ledge to hold it in place on my building form.

You want to use temporary screws on all your frame members to keep them from shifting around on the building form during construction/bending/fitting.

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Ian (aka Iggy)
My Malahini Build

rd,

You will find there are multiple ways to hold the transom in place initially. For me it came down to 2 choices...

1) Attaching the completed transom assembly (ply & solid wood) to the keel using the knee support.

OR

2) Attaching the transom to the form.

If you look through my pictures, I used the 2nd method because I didn't know what size knee I would need (Didn't know if I was going with a long or short shaft motor). Additionally, I wasn't sure how I would make the angled cuts necessary to accept the chines, sheers, and battens, without damaging the backing transom plywood.

So I first epoxied the solid wood frame members together, and then attached this assembly to the building form, by cutting the building form horizontal members at the correct transom angle and Kreg joint fastening the solid transom frame to the form with Kreg screws. From this point I attached the chine, sheers, battens and keel. After that was complete, I went back and epoxied the transom plywood section on.

At this point, I added the knee (which I went ahead and cut at the longer length, figuring I could cut it down later if necessary) by epoxing and bolting in place to the keel only.

I didn't add the motorboard until the boat was flipped, so I wasn't able to bolt and epoxy the knee through the motorboard until after the flip.

Looking back on it, I was glad I didn't glue up the transom plywood to the solid transom pieces until after I had the battens, chines, and sheer in place. However, if I had to do it over again... I would have epoxied the motorboard & knee in place prior to putting the bottom hull pieces on, because it would have been easier to do at that point.

If you ask Iggy, maybe PM him, he has pics of how he did it too, which was different than I, but we both end up with about the same outcome. Do what works for you!

_________________
Malahini Build Gallery:

http://picasaweb.google.com/11229065623 ... directlink

rd.
First, make sure the transom frame pieces are slightly larger than the plans because the transom is cut on an angle on the bottom and also on the sides.
The transom outline in the plan is defined for the outside of the transom. I transferred the level line and centerline to the inside of the transom piece and temporarily attached the frame pieces to the inside of the transom in their correct position. I then cut out the transom, putting the 13 degrees on the bottom and about 6 degrees on the sides.
I unattached the frame pieces and then cut out the batten slots using repeated cuts on a table saw, holding the frame piece bottom on the table thereby giving it a slot parallel to the bottom. I also notched for the chine and sheer. I think I cut the keel slot with a saber saw. Make sure the bottom of the cut is angled to match.
I assembled the frame with a gusset on the inside and attach this to the transom, along with the plywood backing. You can see it in this picture, along with another frame.

I then mounted the transom to the building form with clamps. At this point there are a bunch of adjustments to make to ensure the transom is centered, at the right height and the right angle. I placed the keel and used the knee to set the transom angle. I had to cut my building form to get the angle right and keep the distance from frame 1 correct. Here you can see the tweaks to my form and wedges to get the angle right.

The knee is clamped to the keel to set the angle. You could also use a straight 2x4 if your keel isn't done yet.

When this is it all set and positioned, I screwed the transom to the building form.

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Bob
Completed Malahini (launched 6/24/2012)
http://bobsboatbuild.blogspot.com/