Glen-L.com

Bob,

Looking good! I hear you on the fairing... that was a bear. I remember planing, checking, planing some more, checking, sanding, checking, etc, etc...

I think what you did with building up the chine with a shim to make the sheer to chine junction correct, was definitely the way to go. But like Ttown says, if it's not perfect, thickened epoxy works miracles!

I was too chicken to do the scarf joint myself. It was hard enough for one person to manage getting a 10 ft. section in place at one time. You will definitely need a helper. Especially when getting to the point of applying the epoxy to the sheer/chines and getting the piece in place.

Plus, you will also note that there is a large amount of force necessary to get the transom section to bend into place (I used rachet straps).

Good luck, I'm sure you are glad to be at this point!

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Malahini Build Gallery:

http://picasaweb.google.com/11229065623 ... directlink

Oh, also, if the scarf isn't perfect, be VERY careful when sanding the joint. You can break through the veneer on that Meranti extremely quickly. I actually did this on mine where the butt joint didn't line up exactly right, and I ended up doing a patch on the veneer to compensate.

If it looks like you're going to break through, stop! You can sometimes just build up the low side with multiple layers of clear (non-thickened) epoxy to compensate.

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Malahini Build Gallery:

http://picasaweb.google.com/11229065623 ... directlink

Charles.
Thanks for the tips on the seam. It isn't completely flat, so it will need a little work. The mahogany is pretty thin, as you say, so I will watch the sanding. I like the idea of building up the low side with clear epoxy.

(Also, thanks for the Famowood info in the PM)

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Bob
Completed Malahini (launched 6/24/2012)
http://bobsboatbuild.blogspot.com/

Nice man. Do you have anything in mind for interior or colors? I'm going for a tuck-n-rolled look.

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2011 MALAHINI - KICKED IN THE HEAD

I wake up with a 16ft woody every morning
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=534DBtp1Cnc
Website: https://sites.google.com/site/2011malahini/

I have no idea on upholstery at this time, especially color. I'll let my color expert handle that. I do think tuck and roll would look cool. It might boil down to dollars. I really don't know what upholstery costs.

While waiting for the weekend to start hanging my plywood, I cut and fit the openings in the frames for the battens. I used a reciprocating saw to rough cut the opening and then used a jig and small router to finish squaring the sides and getting the correct depth.

However, the cheap Harbor Freight router didn't keep its grip on the bit so it worked its way out and messed up the depth on a bunch of my cuts. So, I had to fix them with epoxy. I mixed a stiff batch with wood powder and filled the boo-boos. I put waxed paper over the epoxy and pushed the mix to the right depth with a little depth jig shown in this picture.

With a little touch up sanding I restored the cuts.

I fitted and placed the battens, but did not attach. I still have to kerf the forward ends of the battens and cut at a 45. While fitted, I used my router to cut the limbers on the chine side of each battern/frame connection.


Finally, I reduced the depth of the bit and cut the limbers across the battens near the transom to let water drain to the keel. I plan to reinforce the battens by gluing some extra oak on top of the battens above the limbers. This is recommended in the Glen-L boatbuilding book. (My camera is messing up. The last couple pictures don't look very good.)

EDIT. Replaced picture. Used another camera. Seems my old Canon has a goofed up sensor.

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Bob
Completed Malahini (launched 6/24/2012)
http://bobsboatbuild.blogspot.com/

Glad you cut those before your ply laminations. It is no fun doing it after the fact.

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Dave

My Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project

Video of Midnight in Action
Blog

Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.

Warm enough on Saturday to fit and glue the first piece of plywood to the sides. I trimmed it close to the final shape and clamped it in place. I drilled some of the holes to hold it in position. I started clamping the panel to the sheer from the front and noticed that the rear of the plywood moved up as I clamped around the main curve of the sheer. I had to release the clamps on the chine and let the panel rise. The curve at the transom is pretty tight. The plywood made some noises as I bent it around the transom. Here it is in position, but not yet glued.

I used a multifunction tool to cut the transition joint and trim the panel along the chine for the butt portion of the joint. It worked well.

I was nervous about the epoxy staying workable for such a large amount of gluing, but I had plenty of time to coat and then mix in the cabosil and apply it. Using the screws holes to realign the panel I screwed and clamped the piece into position. After it set up I trimmed the panel to the chine and sheer. This Japanese pull saw worked very well to trim it close. You have watch the direction of the pull when you cut cross the grain, such as at the transom, or it will splinter.

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Bob
Completed Malahini (launched 6/24/2012)
http://bobsboatbuild.blogspot.com/

Looking good Bob!

_________________
Malahini Build Gallery:

http://picasaweb.google.com/11229065623 ... directlink

That transition point looks great.

_________________
Dave

My Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project

Video of Midnight in Action
Blog

Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.

I epoxied the battens into place. I also glued some 1/2" oak on the inside of the battens at the transom on top of the limbers to strengthen it. This was suggested in the boatbuilding book.

I did not glue or screw the battens at the forward frame. The batten is kerfed there and also needs to move down and twist in the process. I will glue it when the plywood is attached. The book recommends attaching a machine screw and pulling it down with a wire while the plywood is fitted. This seemed like a good idea so I did that. Here's a picture showing the kerf and also the wire pulling the batten down.

I then started fitting and marking the plywood for the bottom. The weather is supposed to be 60 on Friday, so I'm going to play hooky and attach it then. There's about 3/8" overhang around the bottom. Any suggestions on the best method for trimming the bottom plywood? Hand plane and sand? Router with edging bit? Circular saw set shallow?

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Bob
Completed Malahini (launched 6/24/2012)
http://bobsboatbuild.blogspot.com/

That looks really nice. The turn buckle was a good idea. Did you come up with that or is it in the book?

_________________
2011 MALAHINI - KICKED IN THE HEAD

I wake up with a 16ft woody every morning
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=534DBtp1Cnc
Website: https://sites.google.com/site/2011malahini/

Turnbuckle was my idea. I fiigured if I needed to tweak the shape, this would be simpler.

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Bob
Completed Malahini (launched 6/24/2012)
http://bobsboatbuild.blogspot.com/

Makin' it look easy!

Inspiring work!

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Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad

Bob - in regards to your question about trimming the edge. I found that I could trim almost all 4 of my lamination layers with a router and 3/8 trim bit. You will not get a tight fit at the bow as the bearing pushes the bit away from the chine but it will be close enough that a hand plane can finish up nicely.


I am glad to see so much sawdust on the floor.

_________________
Dave

My Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project

Video of Midnight in Action
Blog

Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.

Bob,

I found the power planer followed by a hand plane, followed lightly by the belt sander worked for me.

_________________
Malahini Build Gallery:

http://picasaweb.google.com/11229065623 ... directlink