Andy's Zip build

Oyster · **Posted:** Mon Mar 07, 2011 7:31 am

Roberta Hegy wrote:

Some of the European ply like Joubert is Lloyds certified, but much marine ply is made to the BS1088 standard, which is insures a proper glue is used. Andy, my personal opinion is your wood is fine. I would just try to balance it and use it.

Roberta

I strongly disagree here. I have used pallets of 1088 of any and all species over the course of decades. The 1088 has changed and little to no real oversight exists now of what is really below the fingernail hardwood skins. I would not install 40 lb 6mm plywood in conjunction with 24 or so lb 6mm in small craft at all, much less in cold mould laminates. Something is wrong. One thing that you need to relook at is the types of glues in the two pieces too.

There is some meranti coming through with an alternative memlamine glue in lieu of the brown rescorsinal glues too. While Homestead Hardwoods is a great outfit, they are only as good as what their buyer is buying too.

I just spoke last week with a buyer that has just returned from overseas and was unable to even purchase any meranti for shipping in the next three months too. The raw materials are not avaliable which leads me to continue to be skeptical in any and all plywoods from the asian regions.

Roberta Hegy · **Posted:** Mon Mar 07, 2011 7:57 am

I have to retract my statement, Mike, and agree with you. I apologize for any confusion. I did more research and found Meranti to be in the 24 lb range for 6mm 5 ply. There has to be something wrong when 6mm is outweighing 9mm.

My apologies, Andy, and I hope you can resolve this.

Roberta

Andy Garrett · **Posted:** Mon Mar 07, 2011 9:42 am

What a headache...

Shoulda bought the Auquatek.

Oyster · **Posted:** Mon Mar 07, 2011 10:15 am

If you wish, I would be glad to give them a jingle and see whats up. They are really a great source.

Andy Garrett · **Posted:** Mon Mar 07, 2011 11:15 am

I called Houston Hardwoods this morning and spoke with Guy, the gent who set up my order.

We talked about the wieghts, the manufacturing process, the storage of the material; at their facility, etc, etc.

In short, nothing in his sphere of influence can account for the annomolous weight discrepancies, and he too feels that 40lbs is quite heavy.

I sent him an email with the same pictures attached so he could see if we might be missing a red flag. For his part, he is absolutely convinced that it is not a different brand, or treated wood of any kind. It was pulled from the same stack as a part of the same batch.

He is going to call his supplier and find out what the acceptable wieght range is for this particular panel. If mine is outside that range, then I will have have the option of making a claim based on quality.

For the record, Guy is quite a decent fella with excellent customer service instincts.

Roberta Hegy · **Posted:** Mon Mar 07, 2011 11:59 am

Sounds great, Andy. I'm sure they must be reputable and will do right by you.

Roberta

Andy Garrett · **Posted:** Mon Mar 07, 2011 1:38 pm

Ok..., According to Luke at 'Wolsten Holme' (supplier I think), The mill had been using Keruing for some of the core plies. They were instructed not to do so as it adds undue wieght (as I discovered).

Some of the old stock is still in circulation, but will work and glass perfectly fine. I was instructed to balance the wieghts as I build with it, and was assured that I would have no surprises.

So, that's it then if honesty prevails--simply a heavy species for inner plies. With the darker shades I see in the pictures, I find this explaination acceptable, and feel inclined to trust the source and their reputation.

I will press on.

Iggy · **Posted:** Mon Mar 07, 2011 1:49 pm

Are you going to be able to balance the sheets.. as in.. do you have enough sheets in 'pairs' of the same weight to match up?

Also, adding extra weight is not ideal in most cases... however I get that the 'return & re-shipping' process can often not be worth the hastle. Plus all the lost time of going back and forth.

Oh.. the joys of buying Marine Grade lumber!

Roberta Hegy · **Posted:** Mon Mar 07, 2011 1:56 pm

Iggy wrote:

Oh.. the joys of buying Marine Grade lumber!

Ain't it the truth!! :roll:

Roberta

vupilot · **Posted:** Mon Mar 07, 2011 2:23 pm

What a headache Andy. Sorry to hear of your troubles, Im sure it takes a little wind out of your sails as this is supposed to be all fun and games, not real work. In a couple months it will be just a pothole in the journey. Keep on chuggin'

Andy Garrett · **Posted:** Mon Mar 07, 2011 5:19 pm

It's all good. In the end, it's just a phone call and some posting herein. I don't have to mess with shipping anything.

As for wieght distribution, I'll do the best I can with the panels I have. I'll put the heavier stuff port since my 230lbs. will be starboard.

I'm installing hydraulic trim plates as well, so I should be fine.

I'm just glad it's not gonna be a glassing failure ( if I got the straight dope).

jeffh · **Posted:** Mon Mar 07, 2011 6:10 pm

Wow, I feel for ya man. The whole buying wood process is just a pita for me no matter what the project. Now, I'm needing wood for my seat bases and Atlanta Hardwoods is just out of my way. Best of luck to you and balancing it all.

Andy Garrett · **Posted:** Tue Mar 08, 2011 4:44 am

With the wood drama behind me for the moment, I have some actual 'boatbuilding' questions...

I'm cutting out frames and will be tacking them to a piece of 1/4" OSB particle board I had laying around. As I assemble the frames with pilot holes, screws, and epoxy, How do I keep the frame from bonding with the base OSB board? Do I just apply the glue to the joint only and encapsulate later? (i.e., Just be careful)

Also, do I need to drill pilot holes in my frame members in order to tack them down to the OSB? I'd be using the thinnest nails I could find, but I'd hate to split the Mahogany after all those smooth and fair lines I cut with my new jigsaw. :roll:

Any advice is welcome. Thanks.

P.S. When using an awl to prick through the pattern onto the mahogany, I quickly discovered that this was very tedious. I went and grabbed my leather working tools and fished out an overstich wheel--much faster, but it did a fine job of perforating the pattern by the time I'd done it on both sides. A little clear tape fixed that.

The folds in the patterns made it very difficult to get the paper to lay flat as well..., should iron the rest before I use them.

ttownshaw · **Posted:** Tue Mar 08, 2011 5:40 am

Andy,

You can use rolled plastic sheeting to keep from bonding to the base board. I got a big roll of it from one of the box stores...you'll find lots of uses for it...like using it as a drop cloth when fiberglassing. I like the heavier stuff cause it is more durable and can be reused.

Yes, you can iron the plans with a warm iron then roll them to keep the creases out.

I thought about your ply pictures when I saw them and the inner cores looked different on one of them. Wolstenholme would know about it as they are the primary supplier to all the distributors in the states. They are the people that refered me to Houston Hardwoods.

Oyster · **Posted:** Tue Mar 08, 2011 5:40 am

I have been thinking about the wood issue overnight. In my opinionated opinion its not your responsibilty to eat the wood. Thats not what you in good faith paid for and its not for you to design around someone elses incompetance or oversight. I have recommended them numerous times and a good friend builder in that area has purchased many thousands of dollars from them, driving a full day both ways to do so. Thats my thoughts and I am sticking to it. One thing for sure Glen L would never react in such a manner and their service is number one and one of the few and declining small businesses that continue to hold their own in the ever declining America work force and service related business too. The least that other like businesses can do is to be mindful of their own screw up. Instead this is total disregard of their consumer which was no fault of your own.

Glen-L.com

Andy's Zip build

Who is online