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 Post subject: Glen-L 10
PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 1:06 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 28, 2009 5:29 am
Posts: 9
Hi
I have started on this one. Greate drawings from Glen-L.
I`l keep you uppdatet.
Don`t get hang up in the language. I`m from Norway.

Jan F.


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File comment: In my basement. Caos? Not for me!
Workspace.jpg
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File comment: Parts
Deler.jpg
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Daggerboard trunk.jpg
Daggerboard trunk.jpg [ 144.08 KiB | Viewed 1449 times ]


Last edited by Jan Fredrik on Wed Mar 23, 2011 2:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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 Post subject: Re: Glen-L 10
PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 1:22 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 20, 2009 2:00 pm
Posts: 1474
Location: Leduc (Edmonton), Alberta
Welcome Jan.

Don't worry about language.. we will figure it out.

Use photo's... we love to see them and can help better when we can see the project.

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Ian (aka Iggy)
My Malahini Build


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 Post subject: Re: Glen-L 10
PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 1:31 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 16, 2009 3:54 pm
Posts: 498
Location: Milner Ga.
welcome Jan


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 Post subject: Re: Glen-L 10
PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 3:18 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 17, 2010 5:42 pm
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Location: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia. Building Gentry.
Welcome Jan,

Boatbuilding is a language all its own, and pictures paint a thousand words. Great start on your boat, and thanks for the photo's. :)

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By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....


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 Post subject: Re: Glen-L 10
PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 12:40 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 09, 2006 4:28 am
Posts: 629
Location: Dublin, Ireland
And so it begins......

Keep us up to date & feel free to ask questions.

Dave

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http://davesboat.blogspot.com/


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 Post subject: Re: Glen-L 10
PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 3:57 am 
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Joined: Sat Jul 04, 2009 3:50 pm
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Location: Branson, MO
Welcome Jan - Keep the pictures coming. Looks like you making some serious progress already.


And please do not worry about the language. Obviously, you have not read some of the threads. The locals have a hard enough time with it. :lol:

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My Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project

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Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.


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 Post subject: Re: Glen-L 10
PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 12:20 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 28, 2009 5:29 am
Posts: 9
Guess this have been discussed before, but: I have trubble finding marine plywood here in Trondheim. I have used ordinary waterproof plywood on an other boat I have build. I covered that one with fiberglass, but that turned out to be expensive. The Glen-L 10 is going to be on land when not in use. Would it be enough to just paint the hull?
Fiberglass tape and epoxy on the joints.


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 Post subject: Re: Glen-L 10
PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 1:24 am 
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Location: Dublin, Ireland
It's all about the transition from water to land.

I'd try to glass the underwater part at least, otherwise when each time you pull onto a beach, or a trolley, you'll dent the ply & let water in,

I did a test of Ply vs Glassed Ply.

I hit them both with a rock.

The Ply dented badly.

The Glassed Ply scuffed a little.

I know which I'd prefer as I dragged my boat up onto a beach.

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http://davesboat.blogspot.com/


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 Post subject: Re: Glen-L 10
PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 3:55 am 
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Posts: 9
Clear answer. I`l try to find a cheaper brand of fiberglass then.
West System is a "bit" overpriced I think..


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 Post subject: Re: Glen-L 10
PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 1:48 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 28, 2009 5:29 am
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Done some progress..


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 Post subject: Re: Glen-L 10
PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 1:58 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 02, 2006 7:10 pm
Posts: 4394
Location: North Carolina
Jan Fredrik wrote:
Clear answer. I`l try to find a cheaper brand of fiberglass then.
West System is a "bit" overpriced I think..

This is one of those instances that if you can at least find some polyester resin and some fiberglass, I see no real reason why you cannot use that type and get the same amount of use out of it. As long as a small boat is sailed from a trailer and taken care of, keeping water from standing in the boat too for long periods of time, you should be fine.

Keep in mind that the polyester dries quicker and does has some fumes that the epoxy resins do not have, even though epoxy also has its issues too. Satuate the wood completely and the apply the glass after you have fitted your glass in the dry stage. Then remove it and handle it with care. Place small marks on the corners and at several other points along the chines when you are fitting your glass so that you have some reference point when you go back and apply it over the wetted wood. I use sharpie type pens which is not a problem. Just make small lines.
Oh for what its worth, I am one of those folks that Dave Lott was talking about. I sputter on a good day and in the evening time with my half way blindness and febble mind, I have a bad habit of creating another dialect on its own. :wink: :lol: :lol:


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 Post subject: Re: Glen-L 10
PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 2:33 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2005 6:43 pm
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Location: Canada
A small quart of good marine (Epiphanes) paint, $50. A gallon of Epoxy (East Systems) $100. Painting would cost more for the same amount of protection and you don't absolutely need to put glass in it if its light duty.

Stuart

( how do you say Hooter girly in Oyster dialect? )


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 Post subject: Re: Glen-L 10
PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 2:14 pm 
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Posts: 9
"you don't absolutely need to put glass in it if its light duty"
With 4 mm of ply between me and the sea..there will be glass :)


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 Post subject: Re: Glen-L 10
PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 2:24 pm 
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Location: Canada
Bah, more than enough. Real seamen just wear lifejackets and head out into the storm singing sea shanties and drinking rum. :wink:

Stuart


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 Post subject: Re: Glen-L 10
PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 3:23 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 08, 2006 5:21 pm
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Location: tarpon springs fl
Rum??? :shock: :D

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