encapsulation

windancer · **Posted:** Sun Mar 27, 2011 11:21 pm

I just flipped my boat today and I figure the next step sould be encapsulating the interior. Just wondering how many coats should it take? Any special proceedure other than mixing up the epoxy and rolling and brushing it out?

Roberta Hegy · **Posted:** Mon Mar 28, 2011 4:46 am

I just flipped my Zip and was going to encapsulate, but I decided to wait until I installed all the chine to chine spreaders for the sole boards. Then I will do the hull up to the chines. Once I get the carlings and other upper frame stuff in, I will encapsulate the parts above the chines. The reason I have for doing it this way is so I am not glueing over resin that I will need to rough up for glueing or need to clean up blush. I did coat the bottoms of the spreaders and the bottom areas under the spreaders between the chines and the battens.

Two coats of resin seems to be the norm applied by brush or roller, what ever works best.

Roberta

vupilot · **Posted:** Mon Mar 28, 2011 6:04 am

2 coats should be enough. Also, a little filleting might be necessary if your anal like most of us and you have any small gaps under your battens, keel, etc.

Iggy · **Posted:** Mon Mar 28, 2011 7:04 am

I did my encapsulation in stages.. after putting my floor stringers on.. after doing my motorwell assembly.. ect. Just clean off the material like before and add a couple layers. I used a non-blushing epoxy (with a bit of washing) between coats to avoid sanding.

I also filled some gaps in my chine, blocking and sheer locations with thickened epoxy using a baby feeder type syringe. Worked like a charm.

windancer · **Posted:** Mon Mar 28, 2011 10:02 am

So I should probably first install my floor stringers, then encapsulate from the chine down and then do my motor well and encapsulate that? Then do my deck beams, carlings and strongback and encapsulate the rest of the hull?
For sanding between coats, how coarse a grit?
What is this non blushing epoxy and what do you mean by a bit of washing - literally with soap ond water?

Roberta Hegy · **Posted:** Mon Mar 28, 2011 11:31 am

Your order of tasks is about what I plan. Resins like System Three Silvertip do not blush and I have not had issues with System Three General Purpose resin blushing using it in a warm, dry workshop. I do not plan on a "Fine-perfect finish" on areas below the chines or areas that are covered up, so I plan on just coating with no sanding between coats. OK to do if recoating in less than 24 hrs. I actually put all my recoats on (resin) within the 24 hr window and sanded areas that are to be "finished" after allowing the resin to cure for about a week. Wiping with warm water and rags is generally OK for cleaning resin. I use a product called "Final Clean" from DuPont to clean any surfaces to be painted or varnished. It is very expensive, though ($45.00 a gallon), but removes any waxes and silicates. Lacquer thinner works too, but is more harsh. I use that on bare wood before applying resin coats. If you do glue something on cured resin, clean and scuff up the cured resin first.

When sanding resin, I start with 80 grit and work up to 320 before applying paints or varnished. If just recoating with resin, 80 should be fine. Problem with sanding resin is you need to let it fully cure or it will gumball all over your paper. If you recoat within 24 hrs, you really don't need to do any sanding or cleaning (provided contaminents did not settle on the resin) and you will get a chemical bond of the coats of resin, which is more desireable than a mechanical bond. Once resin has fully cured, sanding is necessary for any coating or recoating and the bond will only be mechanical.

Roberta

windancer · **Posted:** Mon Mar 28, 2011 12:48 pm

The 24 hr recoat sounds like the way to go. The less sanding the better. Thanks for your help.

Iggy · **Posted:** Mon Mar 28, 2011 2:05 pm

To clarify.. I did not encapsulate anything till I was done adding the other frame materials. So between frames 1 and 4 on my Malahini... I first installed my floor battens and plywood stringers (between my floor battens and hull battens)... and during that process I did my 1st coat of encapsulation. Then I cleaned it off and did my 2nd coat of encapsulation at the same time I filled my oversized/predrilled holes in my floor battens.

I did the same basic process wiht my motorwell. I did my 1st coat of encapsulation at the same time I epoxied my motorwell components together. Then I came back and did a 2nd pass over everything after a quick clean-up.

Non-blushing epoxy was part of the process to ensure one layer bonds to another. However, I've found that even 'blushing' epoxy layers stick to each other pretty damed good without sanding or washing. I still sand and/or wash if its a structural bond.. however my roller trays are full of layers and layers of 'blushing' epoxy from 2 different brands and its solid as a rock.

I wouldn't 'skip' sanding/cleaning if you plan on showing it bright or have a visible painted surface... however if its under a floor or fuel tank the important thing is to add layers for water resistance.. not appearance.

windancer · **Posted:** Mon Mar 28, 2011 6:21 pm

I'm using West Systems epoxy - does that blush?

DaveLott · **Posted:** Mon Mar 28, 2011 7:49 pm

Hmm. I applied 3 coats of CPES and then 2 coats of varnish.

Iggy · **Posted:** Mon Mar 28, 2011 9:23 pm

I believe West systems has a non-blush hardner you can get.

I am using East systems.. which is a Canadian brand.

Trackhappy · **Posted:** Tue Mar 29, 2011 3:55 am

windancer wrote:

I'm using West Systems epoxy - does that blush?

I am using West Systems 105 resin and slow hardener. So far no sign of blush, but that may be climate related.

Roberta Hegy · **Posted:** Tue Mar 29, 2011 5:02 am

I had blush issues with West's 105 and Fast hardener, but conditions were cool (60's) and slightly damp. It cleans up easily and if you recoat soon cleanup of the blush is not necessary nor is sanding and you will get a chemical bond. The West products are very good.

Roberta

leakcheck · **Posted:** Tue Mar 29, 2011 10:14 pm

Mechanical bond= good
Chemical bond= gooder

Steve

DaveLott · **Posted:** Wed Mar 30, 2011 5:31 am

leakcheck wrote:

Mechanical bond= good
Chemical bond= gooder

Steve

Then the question is begged to be asked "what is 'goodest'"?

Glen-L.com

encapsulation

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