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 Post subject: Gauge wiring question
PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2011 7:40 pm 
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My gauges did not come with any wiring schematic. The tach has a plug that goes to my wiring harness. So, I don't think I have a problem there other than the lead from the harness was too short until I fixed that.

The volt meter has three wires:
Black (ground?)
Blue (light..connect to fuse block?)
Purple (where does this connect?)

Fuel Gauge:
Red (to fuse block?)
Black (ground?)
Blue (light...connect to fuse block?)
Purple (?)
My Moeller fuel tank has two connections.

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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2011 3:57 am 
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Number 14 is more than enough for those applications.


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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2011 6:08 am 
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Don't know what gages you have, but my Teleflex fuel gage, the S terminal on the gage goes to the sending unit. If the purple wire is eminating from the gage, I would think it goes to your fuel sending unit. The sending unit may have one or two wires or terminals. If two, one is a ground and the other goes to the gage. The fuel sending unit base must be grounded. My Teleflex Volt gage uses a ground (black) and a red (ignition) to read battery voltage. Sounds like the purple wire would go to a source that is hot when turned on to read battery voltage. The S terminal on the Teleflex volt gage is not used.

I'm using a continuous duty solenoid to power up all my electrical stuff, except my auto bilge switch and my horn. I am running a protected 20 amp wire to the solenoid. I have a fuse block that will be partially powered by the solenoid and partially hot all the time to power the horn and auto bilge switches. The fuse block will then provide protected power to all the accessories I am using, like the volt meter, fuel gage, GPS, accessory socket, lights, tach, bilge manual, etc. This way everything except the auto bilge and horn will be turned off when the boat ignition is turned off and all the wiring circuits and accessories will be protected.

Roberta

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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2011 6:55 am 
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Thanks Roberta,
I forgot to post that these are Faria. I bought them from Great Lakes Skipper as a new open box set for around $160. The tach, which is the most important, plugs right into the harness. The set was for an Evinrude with systems check. I went to the Faria site to find the PDF instruction manual and these aren't listed. I'm thinking they go to a specific boat manufacturer and GLS probably bought a bunch of them as surplus. I'm going to take the whole thing to an Evinrude shop to properly rig the motor. I'm sure someone there can tell me what to do.

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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2011 7:03 am 
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That might be best, especially if you are not sure. The newer motors with all the newer electronics can get complicated and it would be easy to zap out expensive electronic gear.

GLS does do a lot of resale of new, unboxed stuff. You save, but sometimes at a price of not getting all the instructions.

Roberta :D

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Last edited by Roberta Hegy on Sat May 14, 2011 7:06 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2011 7:06 am 
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I think I misunderstood your question. :? I normally make up wiring harnesses and leads and those colors are not always specific to all boat setups.. I also think that Dave Lott has just gone through several swap out for gauges and sending units. But the plastic tanks require three wires.


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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2011 7:18 am 
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I also do like Mike does. I am currently drawing up a schematic for my Zip and adding up all the wires and calculating the gage size based on amp requirements of the accessories. Manufacturers should be able to give you the correct fuse protection requirements for a given item and you need to size the wire and fuses (or breakers) based on that. I typically go heavier by a gage size. Wire gage size dictates load carrying capacity and you protect accordingly. Google searches will find charts to advise you on the capacity of wire gages. The higher the gage number, the smaller the wire, the less load capacity. And because we are building wooden boats, you need to run ground wires to everything.

Here is a link for wire sizing: http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/WireCapacityChart.htm

I agree with the author that the 12 V capacities are too high. I would use the 110 V capacities in my 12 V system.

Roberta

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Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"


Last edited by Roberta Hegy on Sat May 14, 2011 7:31 am, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2011 7:19 am 
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why 3 on plastic Mike? I can only think of the ground and sender wire.

Unless you mean one from the deck-fill to the tank ground

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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2011 8:45 am 
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My 19gal Moeller has two wire connections:
1: fuel sender
2: ground
The instructions say connect the sender wire from the fuel gauge to the threaded screw terminal on the fuel sender. all I need to do is figure out which is the sender on the gauge. It is either purple or blue. I think blue is normally for the back light.

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Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=534DBtp1Cnc
Website: https://sites.google.com/site/2011malahini/


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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2011 8:47 am 
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Location: Apple Valley, MN (Mpls.) Sea Knight/Malahini
upspirate wrote:
why 3 on plastic Mike? I can only think of the ground and sender wire.

Unless you mean one from the deck-fill to the tank ground

I am curious also...I have seen the 3rd wire as an accessory to carry static away from the plastic tank itself...thought the ground wire for the sender would do that but maybe its isolated from the tank itself but since metal parts are in the fuel I don't see how that could be...


Last edited by Bob Maskel on Sat May 14, 2011 9:37 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2011 8:51 am 
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jeffh wrote:
My 19gal Moeller has two wire connections:
1: fuel sender
2: ground
The instructions say connect the sender wire from the fuel gauge to the threaded screw terminal on the fuel sender. all I need to do is figure out which is the sender on the gauge. It is either purple or blue. I think blue is normally for the back light.

On the back of my gauge it had an "S" for sender and a "G" for ground...but mine are Teleflex so maybe Faria doesn't mark the connections


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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2011 9:07 am 
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Interesting discussion on wiring/grounding plastic tanks I found here: http://boatbuild.wordpress.com/2010/07/12/grounding-a-plastic-gas-tank/


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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2011 9:24 am 
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Great post Bob! Thanks

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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2011 9:32 am 
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Thanks for that link Bob. I'll remove my gauge and inspect the back closely to see if there is any indication of what each wire is for.

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I wake up with a 16ft woody every morning :)
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=534DBtp1Cnc
Website: https://sites.google.com/site/2011malahini/


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