Glen-L.com

Some progress is being made on my ZIP. The sides are on - so on to the bottom.

My theory is the more time I spend fairing the relatively small surface area of the framing, the less time I'll spend fairing the hull. That's my story and I'm stickng to it.

To that end I made up my own cheap (and ugly) fairing board. I started with a piece of inexpensive pine 1x4. Cut it to length, ripped it to about 2 1/2" wide then ran both faces over the jointer to make sure they were truly flat and to thin the board a bit.

I the ripped it on the table saw and then ran the two new cut faces over the jointer to again true the faces and reduce thickness. Next I Drilled 3/4" holes in the middle of some leftover bits of white oak and epoxied some 3/4" dowel into said holes and epoxied these assemblies onto one board.

Fold some 60 or 80 grit over one board, screw the other board onto the first to hold the sandpaper and voila, a crude fairing board.

Final total thickness about 5/8". Rigid enough to keep a 'flat' line across the battens by the transom, flexible enough (barely) to follow the curve of the battens by frame 4. Suppose it could be tad thinner, contorting it to the curvier areas was a workout.

I intentionally offset the two pieces so one could ride in the slot in my "SKEEL" (a one piece skeg and keel) One full length scarffed bottom half is now ready to go on.

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This is my first, last and only boat build.

http://www.gdzipbuild.blogspot.com

It's looking good.
As for your theory. The only place on the hull (apart from the side/bottom joint) that might need filling and fairing is the aft section (straight) of the bottom. The board will come in handy for sanding before and after epoxy coating. Keep it up.

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You'd be surprised if you added every extra cost that isn't much in the "big picture".

That makes too much sense

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Dave

My Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project

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