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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 12:17 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 05, 2009 12:18 pm
Posts: 587
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
I'm suffering from 'Analysis Paralysis' and overthinking (as I'm prone to do!)

The fact is that the hull turned out to be better than my most realistic expectations. There are NO/NADA/ZIPPO/NIL screws anywhere aft of frame 4 and the intensive and extensive time I spent fairing the frame seems to have paid off big time in that the hull seems fair as can be.

So now it seems a shame to paint the bottom and thoughts of leaving her bright bottom are dancing in my head.

That raises the issue of what to do with the lap joint aft of frame 4 (forward of frame 4 she's all butt jointed). Do I leave it since it's part of the 'form follows function' concept, or do I consider a water line with no bottom paint. I have always intended to have a 'true' waterline in any event, but I'm so used to looking at an upside down boat for over a year now that I'm having difficuly conceptualizing what a brgiht bottom/bright side boat with a 'true' water line would look like.

I know most nobody will ever see the bottom, but I'll know whats there.

I have yet to do the fiberglass/epoxy so I have time to decide, but would appreciate some feedback, considerations, thoughts, opinions on bright siding the bottom with or without a water line.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 1:30 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 30, 2009 12:07 pm
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Location: Norway
If you want a bright finhed bottom I guess you'll need to find a varnish that's suitable for below the waterline applications, or find a compatible UV filter additive for the epoxy to coat from the waterline and down.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 1:34 pm 
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Location: Branson, MO
Ok, I am going to provide one perspective only from my personal experience. As hard as we try to get the bottom paint perfect (me included) the reality is once we turn the boat over and start using it, it is not seen by anyone. Further, the bottom gets all types of abuse (ie, debris in the water, trailer bunks, launching and reloading, etc). The likelihood of the bottom paint remaining pristine is next to nil. Therefore, (just from my experience) it has been easier for me to repaint the damaged areas with a satin finish and not a gloss finish on the paint.

Just some points to ponder.

Good luck

dave

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 1:40 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 30, 2009 12:07 pm
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Location: Norway
DaveLott wrote:
...
Therefore, (just from my experience) it has been easier for me to repaint the damaged areas with a satin finish and not a gloss finish on the paint.

Just some points to ponder.

Good luck

dave


And that's one of the reasons the bottom of mine will be given a coat of ablative antifouling paint.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 1:51 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 15, 2009 5:17 pm
Posts: 399
Hi Gd,
I love the way the bottom looks. I'll bet the hull is a masterpiece. The fact that you've constructed it without any screws, visible, is amazing! I have two thoughts on your question. I painted the bottom of my boat. Looks great, very smooth, cuts through the water very nicely. The thing is, that when I'm running it, you hit things in the water, unintentionally of course, and when I pull it back on the trailer, the painted bottom slides on the bunks. I looked underneath last night, to discover many bare spots where the red paint chipped off. Of course it's fixable, I still have a pint of the bottom paint. If it was a bright bottom, chipping would not be problem. I'd roll about 6-7 coats of epoxy on it, with the fiberglass. I don't know if varnish is needed here, as it will not see much sun. Nice job G.D, wanna build a house sometime??? :D :D
Bob


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 2:05 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 05, 2009 12:18 pm
Posts: 587
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
Thank you all - great food for thought and some angles that I had not thought of - like which bottom coating might be easier to 'touch up'.

Call me crazy, as I'm sure some have - but I'm researching into the possibility of using Bona Kemi 'commercial' floor 'poly' for my 'varnish' coat. I know this product from floor finishing and it stands up incredibly, even with three dogs, and certainly has UV protection qualities. Never tried spraying it but certainly seems thin enough for spraying.

I already have the bottom paint, it was on sale with a free shipping offer so perhaps I could do a 'water line' and maybe some decorative/minimal trim line paint.

Have now added a fillet to both sides of the skeg and am currently experimenting with various 'wood fillers' to find one that's a close match to the Okume ply. Even trying one other experiment. I have a set of 'hole punches' and have done a couple of test applications where I use a larger size 'hole punch' to cut out a circle or round piece of some of the scrap marine ply veneer - then use the next size smaller 'hole punch' to crate a round 'crater' in a piece of scrap ply - then epoxy the round piece I've cut into the round hole I've created - if it works then I don't have to mess with wood filler.

As for building a house - that's on the 'bucket list' - been in construction for years - but never built an entire house from the ground up. As the wife and I dream of possible retirement building a dream house comes up for discussion. Trouble is I'm so picky don't know if I could find a contractor that I could work with and getting a tad old to do it alone - the proverbial catch 22.

Alas we grow too soon old and too late smart.

Thanks again all.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 6:24 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 15, 2009 7:36 am
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Location: Indy
Many small boats like wood canoes and kayaks often have no bottom paint at all and are varnished entirely bright. I dont see how a Zip that doesnt remain in the water for extended periods is any different. It would be a neat way to show of your craftsmanship.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 4:57 am 
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Joined: Mon May 10, 2010 5:05 am
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Location: Dayton, Ohio
Jerry L did a bright bottom and true waterline on his malahini, you can check it out in the customer photos page.

Only issue I can see (and I'm really not trying to start a true waterline vs. fake argument here...) is that with the ply, you have those goofy looking transition areas and in my case, with the 3/8" thick hull and 1/4" thick sides, an area where the ply was sanded through laminations at the stem to make it all match up. So, for me, I wanted bright sides, but there was no way I was going to accomplish a true waterline.

In my opinon, your hull looks great. And without really knowing what the epoxy vs. paint difference is I say go for it!

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