Highschool Riviera Build Project

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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jamundsen
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Re: Highschool Riviera Build Project

Postby jamundsen » Tue Dec 29, 2015 4:50 pm

Glen L has a book on this very subject. It should answer your question much better than I can.
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John Amundsen
Monte Carlo
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Work tends to get in the way of boat building

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Highschool Riviera Build Project

Postby Bill Edmundson » Tue Dec 29, 2015 4:52 pm

That is a really good book. It answers many other questions, too.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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jamundsen
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Re: Highschool Riviera Build Project

Postby jamundsen » Tue Dec 29, 2015 4:58 pm

Also Ken had a great idea that I didnt do but wish i had. Offset the shaft enough to clear the rudder post so you can remove it without taking the rudder off. Maybe it was offset the rudder. I cant remember. Any way Ken will chime in on that.
John Amundsen
Monte Carlo
Lakeland,Fl

Work tends to get in the way of boat building

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Highschool Riviera Build Project

Postby Bill Edmundson » Tue Dec 29, 2015 6:59 pm

Yes. Offset the rudder, half the shaft diameter plus half the rudder thickness. I can't remember which way, right now. But, it reduces prop-walk, which is the way the boat wants to pull, left or right, underway.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

18shamic
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Re: Highschool Riviera Build Project

Postby 18shamic » Tue Dec 29, 2015 9:28 pm

I think that would depend on the engine's rotation. But either way I have some reading to do :D . There aren't that many questions right now, but i am sure more will come.

Thanks,
Michael

18shamic
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Re: Highschool Riviera Build Project

Postby 18shamic » Sun Jan 03, 2016 12:27 pm

Does anybody know where to buy CPES?

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Highschool Riviera Build Project

Postby Bill Edmundson » Sun Jan 03, 2016 2:30 pm

Michael

I'm not a fan of CPES. But, I used some today. Jamestown Dist. has it. Many boat supply stores have it.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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kens
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Re: Highschool Riviera Build Project

Postby kens » Sun Jan 03, 2016 3:22 pm

jamundsen wrote:Also Ken had a great idea that I didnt do but wish i had. Offset the shaft enough to clear the rudder post so you can remove it without taking the rudder off. Maybe it was offset the rudder. I cant remember. Any way Ken will chime in on that.


Yes, all of the above,
Offset rudder helps reduce torque steer at the helm, and, you can pull the shaft without interfering with the rudder.
You must offset in the correct direction for your prop rotation.
Oak is over rated, everything about it takes extra time; then it warps, splits or checks !!! :roll:

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sscobra
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Re: Highschool Riviera Build Project

Postby sscobra » Sun Jan 03, 2016 4:11 pm

The best CPES in my opinion is made by Smith. Jamestown sells their own brand, called Total Boat. I have used both and both work. Smith's CPES penetrates much better than the Total Boat version, but its one downside is the smell. You should use it in a well ventilated area. The Total Boat version penetrates well if you add alcohol or acetone but leaves a much rougher surface, which is a minor problem. It is also almost odorless. When I covered my stain on the sides of the boat, I used Smith's version. When Jamestown stopped carrying it, I tried their version on hull penetrations and other parts inside the hull. When I do my decking, I will go back to the Smith's version because it penetrates so much better and I know it works over the stain. Do a google search for it. A couple of places that I know carry the Smith version is Defender.com and vintagetrailersupply.com. The Smith website is smithandcompany.org. When you drill your rudder hole, offset it to the opposite side that your helm will be on. I have a right helm, so I offset my rudder about one inch to the left of keel center. Skip
Built the Glen-L Monaco, 2016.

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chugalug
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Re: Highschool Riviera Build Project

Postby chugalug » Sun Jan 03, 2016 6:35 pm

:D My CPES came from the Rot Doctor out of Seattle.Just search Rot Doctor.The can looked exactly like can of Smith's;it was a little cheaper.The first gallon kit came from west coast.The other kit came from down south.wear respirator-powerfull stuff.
Working on regular-sized Bo-Jest


"If it's not crooked,It's not mine

neel thompson
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Re: Highschool Riviera Build Project

Postby neel thompson » Mon Jan 04, 2016 3:39 am

For a motor with "standard rotation" (rotates counter clockwise as looking at it from behind), you offset the rudder to starboard and install the steering to port. At least that's what I did and seems to work. Best of luck with your Riviera build. I love that boat's lines.... Neel

18shamic
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Re: Highschool Riviera Build Project

Postby 18shamic » Mon Jan 04, 2016 8:56 am

Thank You for everything!
Quick Update: we have flipped the boat back over without hurting the boat or anyone: and right now its a little but boxed in, because we are moving things around in the Garage to accommodate for the project. I have ordered Sandusky Stains and CPES from vintage trailer supply - and I am about to order the Glen-L Inboard Motor Installations book. I think I am going to paint the hull Dark Green - But thats a month or two in the future. I cant do much on the boat right now, but have started to sand down the hull with 220 (by hand). But I have been making rolling Tables to help with storage and such.

Thanks,
Michael
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18shamic
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Re: Highschool Riviera Build Project

Postby 18shamic » Sat Jan 09, 2016 3:40 pm

Hi,
So while looking at the plans, me and my dad had come up with some questions. He and I were hoping that we could see boat as inspiration, to find how you did some of the little things. If anybody would be willing to let me see your boat, i would be grateful.

Thanks,
Michael

18shamic
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Re: Highschool Riviera Build Project

Postby 18shamic » Fri Jan 22, 2016 10:00 pm

Hi,
So a quick update, I spent 17 hours last weekend applying three coats of San dusky Dark Walnut Stains. I love the result - I decided to put one coat on the bottom - because I had done the test on one half of the bottom, and I had enough extra stain to do the other half. I do not have much time to work this weekend, but i hope to fix a few cracks. Next weekend i hope to put two coats of CPES on.

Thanks,
Michael
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sscobra
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Re: Highschool Riviera Build Project

Postby sscobra » Fri Jan 22, 2016 10:42 pm

Looking good! After you put on the CPES, wait at least 4 days for it to cure fully before putting any epoxy over it. I only put one coat of CPES over the Interlux stain that I used. The Interlux stain is a filler stain so it fills what little open grain mahogany has. I am not familiar with the Sandusky stains so I don't know if they fill the grain like the Interlux does. You may only need one coat of CPES as I did. You will be able to tell when you apply it. If it leaves a shine then it won't soak in anymore. Since I have only ever used one coat of CPES, I don't know how long you should wait to apply the second coat or whether you should sand between coats. Skip
Built the Glen-L Monaco, 2016.


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