Glen-L.com

Hack, hack, hack!
How bout posting elsewhere?
Jim

Going to drop the motor in next week. I made arrangements with a classic boat shop to put in a prop shaft and align. Had to make a few adjustments to get the motor in place. All else is done except crash pads upholstery.
Jim

I sprayed in sections. One side, transom, rear deck, front deck. Not all the same day. The lights at night attracted our bugs. I thinned the varnish almost 50 percent with naphtha. All else fails sand the suckers out and spray another coat. Seems worse if you try to get them out when the varnish is ...

After spraying, I setup a large floor fan (hft version) to blow over the fresh varnish. Bugs couldn't land.
Jim

Try this. Make one pattern for one side of each frame. Flip that same pattern over and use it to cut the other frame. I made my patterns out of 1/2" mdf easy to shape and use with a flush trim router bit. Remember the rule everything should be symmetrical. Dont worry about things not being exact. It...

Get some stuff called quickfair. It's like bondo. It cures in about 3 hrs so you can shape then. If you are going to reshape the breast hook, you might reshape to conform to my spare fair leader. I can send you a tracing of it.
Jim

I would thin everything first. You dont want Snipe on your finished pieces. I used my sapele as it came from my supplier which was slightly over 3/4" .
Jim

Damn! That looks fantastic Carl!
Jim

Nice boat! The rear flag holder was open at the base for additional venting. The yellow tint on this boat was probably the varnish over white I was talking about. I got my reproduction steering wheel like the one here from California classic boats. The Bugatti windshields on this boat were just too ...

If you go to california classic boats .com they have drawings for hardware for the boats that they came on. Al, at california classic boats tells me that lots of boats that you see have the incorrect hardware for the model and year of the boat. I went with 4 because I wanted plenty of ventilation. I...

After your discussion on supporting the floor, I thought you might be interested in how I did it. The attached picture shows some of the support items for my floor. I used the top of the motor stringers as the reference point to where the floor would sit. I made assemblies that "sandwiched" around t...

I used 1/2 Okuma plywood for the floors and seat tops. With support underneath, the 1/2 plywood doesn't flex. My seat tops are in three sections for removal to get to storage underneath the removable cushions. The frames for the seats were made from 3/4 Sapele. I figured that if I used plywood I wou...

Had a friend with the same problem. Turned out fragments in the engine. Not that uncommon.
Jim

In answer to your questions and more: I measured from the chine to the top of the boat when I divided my sections for the planking. Where the butt joints were I made them follow the frames underneath, so they would be perpendicular to the water line. My thought was that when they built the original ...

This is how it turned out. I had to do a lot of spiling to get tight fits between the planks. I didn't use any filler in any gaps because I wanted the individual planking to be seen like on the original boats.
Jim