Building a RowMe in New Jersey

[rleete]

I hear you. I'm doing the Tubby Tug, for pretty much the same reasons. I also have been researching, studying and reading everything I can. I tend to go overboard a little on new projects like this...

[jpvernon]

Found a place selling 1/2" #8 silicon bronze flat head Frearson wood screws (that's a mouthful).
I ordered a bunch and will use to fasten the 1/4" butt block to the 1/4" side panel.
I'd rather not deal with exposed screws, or try and cut/sand/whatever to get 3/4" down to 1/2"
That essentially leaves only (or barely) two threads.
100 screws including shipping $16
Shipping from NY to NJ so should get them quickly.

[jpvernon]

Glued the two side panels using their respective butt blocks.
While I wait for the 1/2" screws,...I'll check all mating pieces and sand if necessary.
I picked up a countersink drill bit, so it should help instead of what I was doing. (ah the joys of making do with limited resources)
I also need to cut out the skeg,...so I have plenty of busy work.

When I finally wire together the side panels to the hull,...I'm going to check on seat widths.
Seems they're pretty narrow on the plans,..so I may widen them a bit.

[hoodman]

If you've epoxied the butt blocks I would forget about the screws. I did the butt blocks on my side planking with no fasteners. I was able to just clamp them. For a stitch and glue design when you can glue the butt blocks on a flat surface with epoxy that is like the best case scenario for a good glue-up. I think there is no need for screws after the fact.

[jpvernon]

All butt blocks completed and sanded. I went ahead and followed the plans calling for screws in butt blocks. The 1/2" screws arrived yesterday and worked perfectly on the side panels. Stitched one side panel on and the trickiest part was wiring near the bottom butt block. Today will wire second side panel. The directions call for wiring one of the uprights. I think the transom come after that. Hmmmm, I'm hoping there's no gaps between the transom and the side panels. When I say gaps, I mean big gaps. Bigger than a fillet should handle. How do you handle gaps like that?

[vupilot]

Sometimes youll need to improvise. Using a second person to hold pieces tight together while you stitch helps. Other times you might need a extra stitch or two somewhere to close a gap or use a Ziptie instead of wire so it doesnt have a chance to loosen. Sometimes on tight bends like the bow it helps to just get it close and leave it overnight. After the wood has acclimated to its shape it can be easier to bend.

[jpvernon]

Thanks vupilot! I see what you're saying when I stitched the bow. Also, that's a great idea, to give it a rest to acclimate itself to the new shape.

I will have to work at it a little and not rush this. One example are the seat uprights, especially the bow seat upright! As it stands now, there doesn't seem to be a way to get it to sit flush on the hull, and if I do, it's not in the close position to the bow. Not sure if I need to pull apart, spread, the sides, push on the bow to flex it back, or all of the above.

Another question is about the transom knee. I suppose I'm going to have to install the spreader for the sides, because the knee seems to have an opposite angle than what seems to be needed. I'll wait on this and probably take pictures to show what I'm talking about.

Thanks again for the advice!

[jpvernon]

Well, the spreader bar certainly helped. I had mistakenly thought the spreader bar was more aft. Nope, more towards the bow. While I can get the bow seat upright into position easier, it's still not sitting flush on the hull. Oh well, time to give it a rest.

[vupilot]

I dont know the row me plans in particular but I know on similar builds the seat upright will also be stitched in place to the hull sides with a couple stitches on each side. This pulls the bow tight in contact with the vertical seat brace giving everything the proper shape. It works like a permanent form in that regard. You may have to loosen the bow stitches, lightly stitch the vertical in and then work back and forth to close things up. Maybe thats already how you are doing it, dont know.

[jpvernon]

You are correct vupilot. I like that idea about loosening the stitches on the bow to accommodate the bow seat upright.
Seems I can get the sides attached for the upright,..but I'll need to do that loosening to be able to stitch the bottom of the upright to the hull.

Then (as you stated in a prior post) the bow should come together again due to the plywood already being shaped.
I will be spending some extra time on making sure all uprights, the bow, and the transom look good before gluing the insides.

[jpvernon]

Figured I'd post this in case others who might build the RowMe read my prior comments about 1/2" screws, 1/4" plywood, and 1/4" butt blocks.
I found this when reading the "Consumer's Guide to Building Your Own Boat". It says:

"When butt joining 1/4" panels with 1/4" butt blocks, screws that will not project through the opposite
side have little holding power. Usually 3/4" bronze screws are used and the points projecting on the
butt block side are ground flush. It is best that the screws penetrate fully, through both planking and
butt block, regardless of their combined thickness."

I feel okay with what I did, since in addition to the fasteners, I had also glued the panels and the butt block together.
Also from the Consumer's Guide":

"Butt joints can be glued without fasteners, but only if epoxy adhesives are used."

BTW,..you can get the "Consumer's Guide to Building Your Own Boat" though Glen-L's web-site.

[hoodman]

I don't have Consumer's Guide but I'm fairly sure there is similar wording in Boatbuilding with Plywood as well.

[jpvernon]

No work done on the boat this week.
Plan on epoxy coating the seats and the supports.
Then get those wired in, as well as the transom.
Should then be able to fillet the inside.

[jpvernon]

Took a step back and decided to look at the bow seat issue I had described earlier.
I forget who mentioned it,..but the suggestion was to loosen up some of the stitches and try the bow seat again.

At first, stubborn me was just going to wire in the bow seat upright in a new location and fill in the existing drill holes.
However, I did try loosening the stitches in the bow, and on the sides.
Once I had my son pull apart the sides, I was able to wire in the bow seat upright in it's designated location.
However,...the bow seat needs to be sanded back so it will fit. Makes sense, and not a biggie.

Question: In the instructions for the RowMe,...it states that the three seats can either be filled with Marine Flotation Foam and air holes are then needed. Or,...you can seal the seats air tight, no foam needed. Does anyone have an opinion as to the pros/cons for each of these methods?

[Bill Edmundson]

John

My choice would be to buy a foam sheet and glue blocks into the upper part. Then, I'd do my best to seal the compartment. Add a drain plug so you can check for water from time to time.

Bill