Rub rail alternatives?

[firecat1981]

So I'm pricing out my boat build and after the last one I realized how important a rub rail would be. My last boat had a wood rub rail covered with 3 layers of glass and then truck bedliner coating and after a few weeks it looked bad, and was gouged up. So I want some sort of rubber/plastic coating this time.
What are you guys using as an alternative to the $300 taco kits? Is there a rolled rubber product out there thats reasonably priced? I don't mind if the screws are exposed, but love the look of the flexible taco rub rails too.

PS. if you have a good alternative post up a pic of your boat with it if you can.

[Oyster]

As we all progress with building our own boats, a lot fo folks move away from rubber on custom wooden hulls and trim the nice wooden rails out with stainless steel. The hollow back oval stainless steel in 304 grade is not pricey al all by comparison and upgrades your workmanship and adds a nice touch. In lieu of the solid half oval stainless which is three times the price for one piece, all I do is to backfill the hollow with some thickened epoxy which makes fills the void and keeps the rail from crimping if you hit a piling hard or any other upright depending on where you boat too.

[firecat1981]

I had considered a SS rub rail, but I'm going to have a pretty decent curve and bow flair. Plus I will be painting the boat and really won't have any wood exposed unless I decide to do some accent parts out of wood, like the poling platform and grab bar, so I think a black rubber rail might match a bit better, but I'm not sure. It will be a flats fishing boat, but I occasionally tie up to older docks and bridges. The oysters and barnicles slice easily which is why I'm looking for an alternative. To give you an idea of what I'm building heres some pics of my last boat before it was wrecked.

[Oyster]

Nice looking package there for gunkholing and fishing the narrows too,,, It looks really stable. Get a piece of pvc piece the grey type and slide it over the tiller handle part and this will also allow you to stand up foward and look around as you poke your way into some of the creeks.

Thats really not an issue with bending the rails foward. I do it all the time. I am without my computer with all the "propaganda" shots of boats on it. But if you google simmons sea skiffs you will also find that the foward sheer are is pretty extreme. We start foward and work our way back putting fasteners to hold it in place with another person holding the longer piece section. It does want to twist back flat. I did a popular florida boat plan a Phantom 16 flats boat too with simular rails attached to a painted strip for the rubrails keeping the boat sides way away from obstructions. While many folks here use the plastic rails and black rubber, personally I do not like the hidden and voided area behind especially the rope type rubber rails which dampness also finds a way to hang around. If not for rot, black crude always seems to work its way down from behind them after the boat ages a bit.

[firecat1981]

ok well like I said I am open to alternatives, where would one find sections of this SS rail? How long does it typically come, and how to you do tight corners and ends? thanks.

Oh as far as a tiller extension goes I have a buddy up here that makes nice strong ones fitted to the tiller arm. I'll be having him make one up for me as soon as I figure out what size I will want. The next boat will have a small grab console in the center so I'll be standing while operating it.

[SkinnySKiff]

This is the one I am using.
http://www.iboats.com/1-1-4-X-9-16-Rigi ... _id.271861

with the hollow back SS insert

[slug]

I'm using the taco rails on the side of the Titan ( when I get there ) but on the bottom I,m going with 3/8 by 2" aluminum flat bar all along the keel and skeg as a "rub rail" It is relatively cheap( $106 including 13% tax for 20' ) and I can machine it with the router to radius the edge and cut it with my woodworking tools.
Doug

[tsmitherman]

Go to Lowes or HD and get two pieces of gray plastic electrical conduit in adjacent sizes (get the type marked UV resistant), and split them lengthwise with your bandsaw. Glue one inside the other for a double layer, screw them on and paint them black.

Cheap, Cheap, Cheap

I used this on my Bo Jest - when they get scratched up, just repaint em.

[firecat1981]

Hmm thats not a bad idea, I'll have to do some thinkin on it.

[raymacke]

I have also seen "Trex" available at Home Depot (or similar) used. This it the composite wood planks used for building decks. Cut it to size and paint it black and screw it on. Another fairly inexpensive alternative.

Trex - http://homedepot.trex.com/products/whatistrex.aspx

[kens]

what if you take a wood rail, cut a rabbet in it to accept aluminum flat bar. let the flat bar stand proud just slightly.??

[jcallends]

I'm not up to the point where I need a rub rail yet but I have this idea in the back of my mind that is similar to some of the previous suggestions. Purchase PE well pipe and slit lengthwise. This material has a thick wall and is extremely durable and is made in several sizes.

[firecat1981]

So far I will admitt the pipe idea has me most intrigued. anyone have a picture of it done?

[tsmitherman]

Here are some pics of mine. I didn't plug the ends, but they would look better plugged or finished off somehow.

[chugalug]

Saw this post on the web and had to search for it on here.Thought it might be a good topic to bump forward as I need the same thing on "Chug".Wonder how Tom is doing?Haven't heard anything on last e-mail quite awhile ago(before covid)Maybe Bill knows.