Texas Barrelback 20

[billy c]

Hamilton Marine sells it by the foot

[PeterG]

Defender Marine in CT also sells it by the foot along with many other hose types you may need. And they'll have the clamps, etc. to go with them.

[psychobilly]

Steve, have you thought about using fiberglass pipe for your straight runs? Great Lakes Skipper has them as well as 45* pieces.

[Jimbob]

Hi Steve,
As mentioned in the previous post, you might consider fiberglass pipe. The hose is expensive. Instead of pipe, I got some ski boat mufflers that are tubes around 3 feet long. I also made some supports for them that attach to a frame so there wouldn't be any dips on the way to the exhaust ports on the boat. Because of the mufflers, I had less hose that I needed to buy. I got my hose by the foot from Defender Marine.

This is what I found out on the hose. It is difficult to cut because of the really hard wire in the hose. After trying many techniques in cutting the hose, (band saw, metal chop saw, hack saw, box cutter with side cutters) I found something that really works. I cut the rubber with a Japanese saw, stopping when I hit a wire. Then I cut the wire with my dremel with a cutoff wheel on it. Resulting in a square, clean cut.

Jim

[psychobilly]

Steve,

Your bote is a beautiful piece of work my friend and I’m very envious of you. It was nice to finally meet you in person.

Steve and I spoke face to face on the egg-sawst. He explained to me that he’s a man that likes a min amount of leak paths. After looking at his bote, I get it. Once he covers that rear deck, there’s no access to the lazeret section of the stern unless his fuel tank is removed.

She’s is a darn good looker as is yer Cobra. Need ya ride in both!!! hehehe

Thanks again for loaning me your staple gun. You’re a legend!

PS, I cut my hoses with a grinder and a cut off wheel. Had no issues cutting the hose or the wire.

[steves]

Hiya folks,
I was offshore a lot since October and just getting back into the build...I missed it! Psychobilly, it was great to meet you too!

I'm researching the thru hull scoop strainer placement and strainer parts.

considerations:
-where on a full plane, scoop will always be in the water (keep to the rear, keep near the keel)
-keep hose runs to a minimum
-ease of access clean the strainer
-ease of flushing

alternatives:
-thru hull scoop at the rear of the engine, near the keel, with strainer under the back seat (total water run of about 6 ft)
-thru hull scoop and strainer under back seat (just forward of the engine) concern is that on a full plane, the water to the hull scoop could be interrupted…need input, doesn't seem too realistic - water run length here would be about 4 ft

Any thoughts would be appreciated from seasoned veterans.

Steve

[Jimbob]

I crawled under a tournament ski boat and took measurements in relation to the strut, and how out from the keel, making sure that I didn't hit a batten on the inside when I drilled the hole. I drilled from the inside of the boat outward. The other thing to consider is where the water pickup is on your engine. You will probably want a straight hose run to that.
Jim

[steves]

Jim,
thanks for the input. I put my intake on the port side and very close to the where the engine water pickup.

In the last week I have:

• installed the water pickup
  installed the exhaust tips
  begun mounting my dash

I'm now looking at ignition switches vs just a push button. I am leaning toward a push button. I know the ignition switch offers security, but with open dashes, I bet I could start a boat without a key if I wanted to so I don't think security is a real issue here. Anyway, just wondering if you all have had similar thoughts.

Thanks yall!

Steve

[steves]

Jim,
thanks for the input. I put my intake on the port side and very close to the where the engine water pickup.

In the last week I have:
-installed the water pickup
-installed the exhaust tips
-begun mounting my dash

I'm now looking at ignition switches vs just a push button. I am leaning toward a push button. I know the ignition switch offers security, but with open dashes, I bet I could start a boat without a key if I wanted to so I don't think security is a real issue here. Anyway, just wondering if you all have had similar thoughts.

Thanks yall!

Steve

[Bill Edmundson]

Steve

I can't really answer this. I have a diesel. I have a key to start it. I have to push a button (with the key on) to stop it.

Bill

[steves]

thanks Bill,
BTW was at wheels and keels here in Houston yesterday, saw some boats that had 50 yr old diesels, those things can go forever!

Have a great day!

Steve

[Jimbob]

Re the ignition switch.
I have a push button starter switch that is wired into a keyed on off switch. I got both at classic boat connection. If you are concerned about security , hide a main circuit breaker somewhere.

Jim

[psychobilly]

Awesome Steve!! Glad to head you got it done. You had great weather for the weekend too. Post some pics of your dusty garage man.

[steves]

psychobilly,
all my pictures are of a dusty garage! I'll get some on here shortly.

Regarding the rudder packing, I have some questions:

1. I have seen some people put in 2 and some put in 3 wraps of gland material. What is recommended?
2. I believe you cut the gland material to length on an angle.
3. Subsequent joints of glands should be 180 degrees out I assume.

Thanks again!

Steve

[steves]

these bases are what my pedestal seats will attach to under the floor boards.