Texas Barrelback 20

[mrintense]

Making progress Steve. It's always nice to start putting in the finishing parts.

[steves]

Hey Carl, thanks! it is fun but harder work. As someone (Roberta??) said, this is where the thinking starts.

OK, I saw where Milhouse put in LED strips that look really cool. I followed his link but it said those were 110V. Either he spliced in 12 V or attached the wrong link. I've looked, cant really find what I'm looking for and that's the following:

• multicolor
  strips
  can be cut and connected via wires to fit within various places
  12V
  water proof

Anybody found something like that?

Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas!

Steve

[TomB]

Hey Steve, I have been considering the strip lights too and I think this was the link or something similar https://www.amazon.com/TATUFY-Waterproo ... GH0WQEZDKD There are a couple of things I'm looking for, waterproof and 12V. Waterproof strip only is covered in bullet 4 (IP65), and 12V is covered in bullet 5. I think the idea is to cut off the transformer and wire 12V direct?

Tom

[DrBryanJ]

I haven't ordered any yet, but I've been looking at these https://www.ledsupply.com/led-strips/wa ... -led-strip

[steves]

TomB, the light system you reference appears to be the same one referenced by Milhouse.

I went through the questions and found 2 answers! One that said it needs 100 to 120 V power source, the other answer says that you can connect directly to 12V. Not sure where to go yet.

DrBryanJ, those look like they could work well but a bit pricier. Still, not too bad. Thanks!

[Hercdrvr]

My experience with LED strip lighting is the roll kind with the peel and stick kind doesn’t stick very well. I prefer LED light bars that hard mount.
My 2 cents,
Matt B

[JimmY]

There are mounting clips available for the peel and stick kind.

[Roberta]

I have the Crusader motor which has the same harnesses. Just ignore that wire. I ran the # 1 and # 6 wire to idiot lights on the dash thinking they might work, but they don't. The # 4 wire is supposed to go to a warning buzzer. I didn't bother with that either. All those items are apparently for the CES engines. A page in my manual indicates this.

Did you purchase the 25 foot wire extension harness? It is very handy and clips right into the engine harness..

Roberta

[TomB]

Steve & Roberta,

I have a non-catalyzed PCM 343 and I have the 25' wire extension with seven wires in it. The Engine Harness drawing I have is very similar but shows an open in the #1 circuit, therefore, seven wires in the 8-pin harness. I assumed that meant I had buzzer and multifunction indicator lamp (MIL) wires.

Prompted by your discussion, I check to see what I really have. My engine has a short harness that combines the 2-pin wire harness plus the 8-pin wire harness (with 5 wires) on one end and connects to the 25' extension on the other end. So I have seven wires, but not the seven I expected. I don't have a buzzer wire or a MIL wire. I do have a useless buzzer, useless check engine light ready to install... and a hole in the dash for the light.

Tom

[Roberta]

You could put the light in and ignore it. That's what I did. I also have a useless flow meter I paid 400 bucks for that doesn't work either. At least they still plug the holes up and look impressive to the uninformed. As for the buzzer????

Roberta

[steves]

Roberta,
Thanks for the information on the buzzer and other useless wires. That solves a lot of questions!

I have the 25 ft harness, its already run to the dash and as of yesterday, it now has a fancy 8 pin and 2 pin (senders and big power and ground).

I'll go to the garage and formulate some more questions, its too cold at the moment!

Steve

PS Roberta, do you remember all those pins and buzzer wires or do you have to dig back a bit!

[Roberta]

Steve, attached is a scan of the wire call outs with color codes of the wires for their respective function. I used relays to reduce the load on the ignition switch. The gauge wires will go to the respective gauge. Starter wire to the starter terminal on switch and ignition wire to that terminal. I have all the gauge power and other accessories and lights running off two relays to a fuse block I split. One halfof my fuse block works only when ignition is on, The other works in both the ignition and accessory positions. I have attached a picture of this as well.

Hope this helps,

Roberta

[Roberta]

Here's a picture of the completed terminal board and the wire harness on the engine.

Roberta

[steves]

Roberta, thanks again for your input! I'm always amazed at your chraftwomanship.


So, I'm busy wiring, and wiring. It's so slow![/attachment]

[Roberta]

Wiring is always somewhat tedious and requires a lot of thought and planning. I try to organize on paper what devices I plan on, where they will be in the scheme of things, and what the electrical requirements are regarding wire size, power, senders, lighting and so on. I like being able to turn certain things on with ignition or just accessory off the ignition switch. I split these items based on what switch mode and power them off appropriately sized relays and then to a fuse panel. Using the relays reduces the load on the ignition switch.

I have been lucky living close to Great Lakes Skipper (Racine, WI) and their spin off company called Kendor Marine (Franklin, WI). I can order many items online at GLS or go directly to Kendor and rummage through their plethora of OEM marine hardware and components.

Looks good what you have going. Tidy it up with clamps and wire ties once it's all in place,

Roberta