20ft Texas Barrel

[Bill Edmundson]

Matt

Mine were wrong. I had to move them. There is an extra board/patch in the lower picture. You can see where I moved one of the frames. This is a tough call.

Bill

[neel thompson]

Matt, Check your plans, but I am pretty sure the waterline is in line with the bottom edge (top edge when hull is upside down) of your stringers. Just use that as a reference to plan for your exhaust ports.

[TomB]

The boot top (waterline) is called out in the instructions. "locate the top of the 2" wide boot top 2" below the setup line."

[Hercdrvr]

Awesome advice, thank you all. I think I may have cut my exhaust holes in the transom too high. Think I'll fix it now rather than trying to drill 2 big holes through the middle of the camber board a year from now.

Matt B

[Jimbob]

Hi Matt,
Sorry I'm late to getting back to you. Here are some thoughts for you.

On the exhaust ports. I understand that the setup level is where the waterline ends up. With that in mind, first determine where you want the exhaust ports to be. Some like them above the waterline, others want them lower. Some like them half above the waterline and half below. Make sure that you make the holes in the transom large enough so you have room for the final placement of the exhaust ports when you cut the final holes through the mahogany veneer. Don't forget about allowing for the size of the exhaust hose and access to the related clamps. You will also want to be able to access those clamps with a driver to tighten them. On the placement of the curved spacers, I followed the plans, but the spacers got in the way. I don't think it is that critical where they are placed up or down because all they do is provide support for the outer veneer layers. With that in mind, I would position them so they don't get in the way of where you want the exhaust ports to be.

In thinking about the transom, I built up 4 layers of mahogany veneer so that the transom "caps" the end of the boat. Some people only use 1 mahogany veneer thickness on the transom. The reason I did mine with the 1/2" cap is because when you get to the point where you put on the stainless steel bands, there is supposed to be 1/4" of transom showing outward from the band. The last top veneer was left off so it will be easier to trim the final deck veneer. After the deck is put on the final piece will be attached to the transom. I saved a piece to match the existing veneer.

Not sure what you mean on the transom angles, but this may set your mind at ease. The curved spacer pieces are all the same so the curve at the back of the boat is the same from top to bottom. The support brackets for the transom are 90 degrees to the motor stringer so there is no angle there. Everything is faired to follow the shape of the sides and bottom of the boat.

I attached some pictures that might help.

Jim

[Jimbob]

Matt,
Here are some pictures of the exhaust ports on my boat. I would have liked them higher, but I was limited by the curved spacers in the transom. I cut the holes for the exhaust tips with a large hole saw. I was afraid to use a a router circle cutter. It was pretty scary, but it came out o.k.
If you look closely at the first pic you can see the 1/2" cap I was talking about in the previous post.
Jim

[Bill Edmundson]

Matt

That is exactly what my problem was. I discovered that the exhaust would be right at the camber board and had to move it.

Bill

[Hercdrvr]

This is some really good info. Give me a couple of weeks to work on the transom and digest everything to see where I am.

Matt B

[Hercdrvr]

I'm ordering all the 3mm plywood in one shipment. Basic head scratching says about 30 sheets should get all the diagonal planking done.

How many sheets did other Barrel Back builder use? Or other cold mold builders in the 20ft range, Tahoe, Ket Largo, Biscayne, etc.

Thanks,
Matt B

[Bill Edmundson]

Matt

I can't find my build cost spreadsheet, Tahoe 20', to know for sure. My weight calculation shows 19 sheets of 1/8" at the time. It shows 19@11.5#. With waste probably 22 or 23.

Bill

[FFRCOBRA]

I'm looking at everyone's exhaust cut-outs, are mine too high up the transom? When I say "high" I'm mean after the boat is flipped, my intent is to have the bottom of exhaust trumpets at the water line.
Matt B

EDIT: Sorry. I was replying to the question on page one of this thread. I didn't see there was a page two with all kinds of suggestions. Just disregard. Sounds like you have it figured out.


They look higher than mine.
When building:


And then flipped.


Not commenting either way. Just offering a comparison.
Craig

[Hercdrvr]

Craig,
Your exhaust height looks good. Mine are too high, going to make cutouts in transom below the middle camber board.
Thanks for the pic

[Hercdrvr]

Anyone else have inputs on total number of 1/8" sheets of plywood for a cold mold 20ft'er??
I don't want a bunch of 1/8" material left over, too thin for most topside construction.

Matt B

[alycat]

I should have some pics in my face book album, I would make sure u have enough room for your exhaust, from what I have come up with from the plans and reading the instructions too many times, the waterline should be 2 inches below the setup level once the boat is righted. I know I am cutting it close with the access due to the transom cross memebet creating the curvature of the transom.

[Hercdrvr]

She's faired, anybody want to borrow some saw dust?

Matt B