Key Largo Build in Charleston

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Jimbob
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Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Post by Jimbob » Mon Jan 28, 2019 10:29 am

In my opinion I would straighten that dip out. How big of a dip are you talking about?

I took a look at the glen l drawing on your plans, and there is no dip. I am building the barrelback (similar to your boat) and there is no dip. I think it would look odd if you could see the dip when looking at the side of the boat.

The rub rails should cover the seam between the between the sheer and the coverboards. My rub rails are a little over an inch wide, so there is room to adjust to hide the seam. Make sure that there is no dip in your rub rails.

Jim
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=28089#p172969

mickfly
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Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Post by mickfly » Wed Jan 30, 2019 11:39 am

Thanks Jim. It's a bit of a mystery...I've checked the frame lengths and notches on the frames...and all appear to be right. Fortunately, when I laid a straight edge on it, it seems to be about 3/16 of an inch at the lowest point. Visually, it looked somewhat worse. I can use a thicker plank in that area and blend it in. Yes...I thought about the rub rail's ability to cover up any minor goofs, but certainly don't want it to dip down at that point. I'll plan to make the rub rail "straight" at that point and should be able to use the crash pad on the inside to reduce the look of the dip?

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Post by Bill Edmundson » Wed Jan 30, 2019 11:44 am

There is not another straight line on a boat why do you think this one would be straight :?: Uniform side to side, yes!

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

mickfly
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Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Post by mickfly » Fri Feb 01, 2019 9:26 am

Thanks Bill! Yes, I understood that I was using the word "straight" at my own peril. I've got a plan to make it uniform on both sides.

mickfly
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Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Post by mickfly » Thu Mar 07, 2019 11:09 am

I'm preparing to install the back deck on my Key Largo. The plans say "transom doubler" for the center deck beam or strongback, then refers to a 4"-wide board. I wondering if I should put two 4" boards on the center line of frame 1 back to the transom or if the "doubler" refers to the double thickness (the other deck-beams/battens are 2")? My primary concern about cutting deep enough to put in two boards...is that it could weaken the frame 1 cross piece which is only 3.5" wide.
Any thoughts?

mickfly
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Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Post by mickfly » Tue Mar 12, 2019 9:52 am

Boise Brit helped me see the "error of my ways." Error partly caused by not having enough light in my shop where I have the plans mounted! At any rate, I now understand where to put the "transom doubler."

mickfly
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Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Post by mickfly » Wed Apr 24, 2019 11:48 am

I want to install a bow eye before I put the front decking in place.
I ordered one from Glen-l. It's a high quality unit but does not come close to fitting the beefy hook and safety hook on my trailer. I looked at a less beefy hook, which fits, but still doesn't accommodate the safety hook. I found a couple double bow eyes on the web that might work. There are not many choices with long enough threads to get through the stem. I'd prefer not to counter bore more than an inch...or so. I've noticed some builds don't have bow eyes and some do... Any advice from the forum appreciated.

Mick

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Jimbob
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Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Post by Jimbob » Wed Apr 24, 2019 4:33 pm

I am using a lift ring instead of a bow eye to attach my winch strap to. It does mean that you will have to elevate the winch on your trailer to line up with the lift ring. Check out page #15 of my build and you can will see what I am talking about.
The link to my build is below.
Jim
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=28089#p172969

rleete
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Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Post by rleete » Mon May 13, 2019 5:49 am

Most of the bow eyes have a threaded rod and nut/washer to fasten. That threaded rod can be replaced with one that is longer; the big box hardware stores all carry threaded rod in various sizes, usually in 3 foot lengths.

mickfly
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Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Post by mickfly » Mon May 13, 2019 12:31 pm

Thanks...good advice from the forum, as always. I ended up buying a bow eye (ubolt) in stainless, with 4 3/4 inch threaded shank. That should get me through the stem or close enough for reasonable counter sink. If that doesn't work, I'll try the threaded rod option, but it's hard to find a traditional bow eye that will take the BEEFY hook on my trailer. I could always change the hook, I suppose.

I received the hydraulic steering system from Jamestown distributors. It was about twice the cost of the mechanical unit, but my "boat mechanic" recommended it. When I bought it, I thought that the helm pump would have to be hooked up to the battery power...but was pleased to learn it is "Armstrong" steering...the twist of the wheel runs the pump! I'll update when completely installed.

mickfly
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Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Post by mickfly » Fri Jun 07, 2019 8:02 am

I have started the decking on my build. I've got a long way to go before needing this answer, but thinking ahead as is my pattern.

For the "caulking" between the deck boards, I've seen some apply varnish over the top. Jim used a special spray tip to paint his white, after applying varnish. There is a very nice build here in Charleston in which the builder employed thickened epoxy, black, which got around the amber of the varnish. I was thinking...why not varnish everything and put the caulking or white epoxy in the gaps last? Let me know if you can think of a reason this would not work...as in...caulking needs the UV inhibitors in the varnish??

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Post by Bill Edmundson » Fri Jun 07, 2019 8:22 am

Mickfly

3m4000uv comes in white. It holds up well. If you want black you'll have to use 3m3000uv. I put it on after all the varnish. I use 1 7/8" deck boards with 1/4" grooves. 1 7/8" is the width of "2" masking tape". I fill the grooves then smooth it with the bottom of a plastic spoon. Let it dry some, then pull the tape. it looks like a mess. But, when you pull the tape!

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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Jimbob
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Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Post by Jimbob » Fri Jun 07, 2019 9:12 am

I was thinking...why not varnish everything and put the caulking or white epoxy in the gaps last? Let me know if you can think of a reason this would not work...as in...caulking needs the UV inhibitors in the varnish??
Varnishing over the deck and into the grooves before applying the caulk is the method recommended by professionals. Don't know how epoxy would work over the varnish. If you use caulk, make sure to get one that you can varnish over. You can get black caulk if that is the look you are after.
Jim
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=28089#p172969

JimmY
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Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Post by JimmY » Fri Jun 07, 2019 9:30 am

I used epoxy and microballoons for my "caulking." If you go this route, you need to provide some UV protection over the caulking to keep the epoxy from breaking down. If you are concerned over yellowing with varnish, look into other clear finishes. I used System 3 WR-LPU and I'm on my second summer and it is crystal clear with no signs of yellowing. I also finished a mahogany sign for a friend with it, and it is mounted on the west side of his shed and after 3 years of being in the weather 24/7 it is still glossy. The System 3 WR-LPU is water cleanup and low odor which is really convenient.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

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mrintense
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Re: Key Largo Build in Charleston

Post by mrintense » Sat Jun 08, 2019 6:24 am

Be sure to take the heat in your area into consideration. The deck boards will expand some. I think this why caulk is generally used.
Carl
a.k.a. Clipper

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise

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