Squirt in CT

Outboard designs up to 14'

Moderator: ttownshaw

User avatar
mrintense
Posts: 3906
Joined: Thu Jun 10, 2010 11:22 am
Location: Austin, Texas
Contact:

Re: Squirt in CT

Post by mrintense »

mdweber wrote:Thanks for posting Carl's blog, Mike. It has a lot of great information in it.

I see that his chines were set into notches deeper than the chine. By that I mean that he had to fair his frames while leaving his chines (more or less) untouched. Did you do this? How deep did you set your chines into frame 2?
Hi Mike,

The depth of the notches on the forward frames were an educated guess based upon staring at the frames and realizing that the corners of the forward edge of the frame would have to be faired for the skin to lay flat. Mike 's response just prior to this beat mine into the forum but he stated it as I saw it.

I'm glad you find my blog useful. Like all information, please weigh what you see there against your own judgement and what others are doing as I too am a first time builder.

Your build is coming along fine.
Carl

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise

mdweber
Posts: 119
Joined: Fri Feb 14, 2014 5:56 pm

Re: Squirt in CT

Post by mdweber »

Hello fellow builders,

The squirt has been coming along swimmingly. After 2 weeks of head-scratching (and pestering you folks with questions), I finally glued the starboard chine.
Starboard chine (first lamination)
Starboard chine (first lamination)
This morning I removed 2 chine members from PVC pipes where they had been soaking for a week. The first member was for the second starboard chine lamination, and the second was for the first port chine. I am going to let these dry for a day or two.
IMAG0854.jpg
With the chines almost out of the way, my thoughts have shifted to the planking, and I have a few questions

(1) The squirt plans suggest using 1" nails (and epoxy) to fasten the side and bottom planking to the sheers/chines/battens/keel. I would prefer using screws. From my aborted PeeWee build, I have 300 3/4" #8 screws. Would this size screw be sufficient for attaching the planking? Do I need to go bigger? Additionally, will 300 screws be enough to attaching the side/bottom planking?

(2) The decision to laminate an okoume veneer over the transom lends flexibility in how the side and transom panels will meet. The way I see it, I can either have the side planking overlap the transom, in which case the side plywood layers would be seen from the rear, or I could have the transom veneer extend 1/4" past the transom and "cap" the side planking, meaning that the layers of the transom plywood veneer would be seen from the sides. I have also thought that, perhaps, it would be possible to bevel the edges of the side and transom plywood to a 45, thus hiding all edges. What do you think?

User avatar
BarnacleMike
Posts: 1146
Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2011 7:47 am
Location: North Georgia / Chattanooga Area
Contact:

Re: Squirt in CT

Post by BarnacleMike »

It's looking good, Mike!

Yes, the #8 screws will be fine for installing the planking. I've used a combination of 3/4" and 1" screws, just depending on the thickness of the backing material at any given point. Personally, I'd rather use the screws than nails anyway... I just find them easier. Are they bronze screws? If not, I'd ditch 'em & buy the bronze ones.

As for tapering the plywood ends at the transom... I'd say it all depends on your confidence and capability as a wood craftsman. Me personally, I wouldn't attempt it. However, others 'round here have pulled off some pretty amazing things with their woodworking skills and fitting, as you've seen.

On my Utility, I decided to let the transom cover overhang the side planking. Since I'll be painting the sides, the plywood edge won't be visible, anyway.
"How long does it take to build a boat? Until it's finished" — yours truly
Why did the boatbuilder get a divorce? Because he didn't have enough clamps to hold his marriage together!

mdweber
Posts: 119
Joined: Fri Feb 14, 2014 5:56 pm

Re: Squirt in CT

Post by mdweber »

Before I started the squirt I was building a PeeWee. The PeeWee was going so well that I decided to move up to the squirt. The fasteners for the PeeWee have been sitting in the back of my car for a few weeks waiting to be returned. Luckily I didn't return them, because the kit is full of 3/4" screws. There were 300 3/4" #8s and 100 1" #8s. Like you, I'll probably use a mix of both. So, yes, the screws are bronze.

Even though I have been happy with my build quality so far, I don't want to push it beveling the transom/side planking junction. I think I'll use your method. If the money holds out, I'll hid it under a ss transom band.

mdweber
Posts: 119
Joined: Fri Feb 14, 2014 5:56 pm

Re: Squirt in CT

Post by mdweber »

I'm going to begin fairing tomorrow. I have read about the RABL method in Building with Plywood and on several blogs, and I like it's scientific approach to fairing.

Is the Rabl method just for fairing the chine-stem planking surface, or is it also used in fairing the sheer-chine planking surface?

Thanks,
Mike

User avatar
BarnacleMike
Posts: 1146
Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2011 7:47 am
Location: North Georgia / Chattanooga Area
Contact:

Re: Squirt in CT

Post by BarnacleMike »

Primarily chine-stem. You can apply the concept to chine-sheer also, but that part is a bit easier. For the chine-sheer, I just used a straight edge and a test piece of plywood.
"How long does it take to build a boat? Until it's finished" — yours truly
Why did the boatbuilder get a divorce? Because he didn't have enough clamps to hold his marriage together!

mdweber
Posts: 119
Joined: Fri Feb 14, 2014 5:56 pm

Re: Squirt in CT

Post by mdweber »

Fairing is scary stuff. It just doesn't seem right turning perfectly good mahogany into saw dust.

Before starting with the Rabl method, I tried using the fairing procedure detailed in Building with Plywood, and began fairing the chines at the intersection with each frame. I think I took off too much around frame 2, and would like to know what you guys think.
IMG_0485.JPG
IMG_0482.JPG
IMG_0486.JPG


The frame and chine are not yet flush, so if the fairing I am doing is correct, I still have a bit more to lop off. I'm thinking that I already took off too much, and should have built up frame 2 instead of taking material out of the chine. Perhaps the chine was mounted too high on frame 2.

What say you?

User avatar
BarnacleMike
Posts: 1146
Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2011 7:47 am
Location: North Georgia / Chattanooga Area
Contact:

Re: Squirt in CT

Post by BarnacleMike »

It looks about right to me. I think you're doing just fine so far.
"How long does it take to build a boat? Until it's finished" — yours truly
Why did the boatbuilder get a divorce? Because he didn't have enough clamps to hold his marriage together!

mdweber
Posts: 119
Joined: Fri Feb 14, 2014 5:56 pm

Re: Squirt in CT

Post by mdweber »

Hello fellow builders,

After over a month of fairing, I am finally ready to begin planking. Halleluyah!!!

I will be using screws to fasten the side planking to the chines, sheers, and other longitudinals. I am wondering whether the fasteners should be centered along the longitudinals or staggered vertically. Should the screws, placed every three inches, be drilled into the very center of the chines and sheers, or should I drill one in the middle, the next a bit above, the next a bit below? There was a mention of this in Building with Plywood, but it was very brief.

Thanks!

Mike

User avatar
Bill Edmundson
Posts: 12157
Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2005 6:45 am
Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
Contact:

Re: Squirt in CT

Post by Bill Edmundson »

A straight line is fine. If you're using epoxy, then 4" spacing or more will be fine.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

mdweber
Posts: 119
Joined: Fri Feb 14, 2014 5:56 pm

Re: Squirt in CT

Post by mdweber »

Thanks, Bill.

How much "or more" can I go on the spacing? 6"?

User avatar
BarnacleMike
Posts: 1146
Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2011 7:47 am
Location: North Georgia / Chattanooga Area
Contact:

Re: Squirt in CT

Post by BarnacleMike »

Mike,

Speaking for myself, I would not space the screws more than 4 inches apart. I believe 4" spacing would still produce equally good surface-to-surface contact as 3" spacing, while using 1/3 less screws. (Sounds like a great idea to me)

When I was dry-fitting the bottom planking on my Utility, I used 6" spacing. There were some places in-between where the plywood buckled a little & didnt want to conform to shape. When I added the additional screws (3" spacing), that problem went away.
"How long does it take to build a boat? Until it's finished" — yours truly
Why did the boatbuilder get a divorce? Because he didn't have enough clamps to hold his marriage together!

neel thompson
Posts: 1551
Joined: Fri Oct 01, 2010 2:33 pm
Location: Collegeville, Pa

Re: Squirt in CT

Post by neel thompson »

Mike... Any chance you will be able to get to the Wooden Boat Show at Mystic Seaport? The show is a three-day event from 6/27 to 6/29. I will have my boat there (in water at floating docks) all three days. I know of two other Glen-L builders that will be there as well. We certainly would like to meet you if you can make it......Neel

mdweber
Posts: 119
Joined: Fri Feb 14, 2014 5:56 pm

Re: Squirt in CT

Post by mdweber »

Hey Neel,

I didn't know the show was coming up. I'll definitely be there. I'm looking forward to meeting you and other Glen L guys and getting some building inspiration!

neel thompson
Posts: 1551
Joined: Fri Oct 01, 2010 2:33 pm
Location: Collegeville, Pa

Re: Squirt in CT

Post by neel thompson »

Great. My boat will be on one of the floating docks near the huge building. Two other Glen-L builders attending are Bill Edmundson and Howard Bergenholtz. I am sure there will be others as well. Looking forward to meeting you...Neel

Post Reply

Return to “Small outboards”