Utility skiff build question

Outboard designs up to 14'

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Utility
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Utility skiff build question

Post by Utility » Mon Jul 30, 2018 6:33 pm

I have hopefully an easy question about building the 10' "Utility" skiff. On the keel I see it has a 1" tall 3" wide piece that bolts to the stem. In the instructions I see reference to plywood on top of the keel. Is this a reference to the floor plywood? I suspect the keel is sandwiched between the floor and the plywood skin under the boat just like the other battons next to it. Is this a correct or am I missing something?

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Utility skiff build question

Post by BarnacleMike » Mon Jul 30, 2018 6:59 pm

The Utility's keel is designed as 1 x 3 inch mahogany laminated with an additional layer of 1/4" marine plywood. In other words, the plywood is part of the keel.

The plywood floor is a separate part, and later goes on top of the keel.

You are correct that the keel is sandwiched between the floor and the hull.
-Michael

"How long does it take to build a boat? Until it's finished" — yours truly

Blog (Utility & Zip): http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

Utility
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Re: Utility skiff build question

Post by Utility » Tue Jul 31, 2018 3:42 am

Thanks! That makes more sense. I like your web page about assembly of utility. It is going make this task a lot easier. It also explained the double layer of plywood on your model that popped up during a random picture search earlier.

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Utility skiff build question

Post by BarnacleMike » Tue Jul 31, 2018 10:52 am

Yes, I'd kind of forgotten about that!

I started my keel with 3/4 mahogany, rather than 4/4. When I laminated the 1/4" plywood on top, it was still only 1" instead of 1-1/4". So, I laminated a second layer of plywood on top. While my keel construction wasn't ideal, I can tell you that it is plenty solid and has worked just fine. I've never had a bit of trouble out of it, and have no regrets about building it that way.

Not ideal, like I said... but it definitely worked.
-Michael

"How long does it take to build a boat? Until it's finished" — yours truly

Blog (Utility & Zip): http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

Utility
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Re: Utility skiff build question

Post by Utility » Wed Aug 08, 2018 6:22 pm

Transom construction is next on the list. I have the frame plans to cut out the transom. I am as little confused about how to cut it out. I see the bottom is cut ar 13 1/2 degrees and the sides at 7 degrees. I am thinking the plans are for the area at in between the transom plywood and the oak frame. This would mean the oak frame will be the same size as the pattern on one side and slightly larger on the other. The plywood transom piece would then be the same size as the pattern on one side and slightly smaller on the other side. Is my reasoning correct?

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Utility skiff build question

Post by Bill Edmundson » Wed Aug 08, 2018 7:01 pm

I just cut them big. Then I get that big belt sander with 60 grit and shape as needed!

Bill
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neel thompson
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Re: Utility skiff build question

Post by neel thompson » Thu Aug 09, 2018 3:12 am

I agree with Bill.. Cut everything to the larger dimension and then angle each piece to the smaller dimension on the other side using whatever sanders/planes you have. I have used my Rigid (Home Depot) bench belt sander for this many times. That sander is right up there with "the most valuable tool in my arsenal".

hoodman
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Re: Utility skiff build question

Post by hoodman » Thu Aug 09, 2018 4:19 am

I did as mentioned above. By cutting the transom large enough to accommodate the angle of the transom and then fairing it in once it was attached to the build form. A good sharp no. 4 or 5 hand plane will also do the job remarkably quickly. I've used a belt sander on occasion too but just giving you another option for your fairing.
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
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BarnacleMike
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Re: Utility skiff build question

Post by BarnacleMike » Thu Aug 09, 2018 12:32 pm

Bill, Neel, and Matt are all right. That being said...

Not knowing any better when I built my Utility, I cut all the pieces at 90°, no angled cuts, to the same dimensions as shown on the plans.

It still worked.

The Utility is a very simple boat, and it's hard to mess it up.
-Michael

"How long does it take to build a boat? Until it's finished" — yours truly

Blog (Utility & Zip): http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

Utility
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Re: Utility skiff build question

Post by Utility » Thu Aug 16, 2018 3:40 pm

Transom knee question. Correct me if I am wrong. The transom knee takes the thrust from the outboard and transfers the force to the keel. They are 1/4 plywood evcapulated in the frame and just sitting on the edge of the keel. I am thinking of using 3/4" plywood instead and moving them away from the center of boat so I still have my 3" open section on the keel to drill through for installing the ED drive. I can also extend the knees toward the stem and flatten out the top so I have place to mount the ED drive to. Any thoughts wisdom on the subject would be appreciated..

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Utility skiff build question

Post by BarnacleMike » Thu Aug 16, 2018 5:36 pm

I used 3/4" for my transom knees. The one other Utility I've seen, and most photos of them I've seen, use 3/4".

I can't offer any advice about the ED drive, as I know nothing about them.

You could, fairly easily, construct similar transom knees that attach to the inner floor battens. You may have to bevel the bottom of the transom knee to compensate for the angle of the batten. You could install vertical blocking to the inner face of the transom, of the same width as the floor battens and aligned with them, and build transom knees similar to the design in the plan.

Another method that might work in this case is what I call the "William Jackson" style transom knee. Essentially, you could attach blocking to the transom as I mentioned above. Then, build a transom knee of the same width as the floor batten out of solid stock. Then, on either side, you could laminate 1/4" plywood of the same pattern that also extended down the side of the batten and transom blocking to "sandwich" the whole thing together. That's the way Jackson designed the knees for the "Ace" boat. It might be complete overkill for the Utility, but it would definitely be strong.
-Michael

"How long does it take to build a boat? Until it's finished" — yours truly

Blog (Utility & Zip): http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

Utility
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Re: Utility skiff build question

Post by Utility » Thu Aug 30, 2018 7:46 am

I have 2 questions. The first is regarding the drain holes between battons. How big do these holes need to be and how many are needed. I didn't see this in the documentation. I figured I would clamp a board on the back and drill through both to provide a half hole drain slot. Do you put one in keel as well or is that a big no no.

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Utility skiff build question

Post by BarnacleMike » Thu Aug 30, 2018 11:14 am

They only need to be large enough to allow the flow of water to the lowest point of the boat. I would say the hole should be no larger than 1/3 the thickness of the floor batten. It is best to cut these, (perhaps with a rounded file), before the floor planking is installed.

Here is an image of what these limbers typically look like:

Image

One limber in each batten, at the back of the boat is all you really need. If you do not install them, more water than necessary can and will pool in the back of your boat, and will be more work to remove. (Ask me how I learned THAT lesson!)

I would not recommend cutting limbers in the keel.

Naturally, make sure to encapsulate these cutouts well, because you won't be able to reach them after the floor is installed.
-Michael

"How long does it take to build a boat? Until it's finished" — yours truly

Blog (Utility & Zip): http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

Utility
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Re: Utility skiff build question

Post by Utility » Mon Sep 17, 2018 7:21 pm

I have the frames assembled and placed on the assembly jig and it is plumb and straight, but the distances between the frames are in question. I want to extend the frame from 11' to 11'7". The front distance according to the prints is supposed to be 46" and the center distance is supposed to 48" and the rear distance is supposed to be 36". I made the Stem from the 1:1 prints pretty accurately and it is about 1" shorter so it is 45". the second frame is 48" +4" and the rear frame is 36" +3". My question is do I need to redo the stem and stretch it by 3 to 4" to keep the hull proportions correct or would this fall under the good enough category. Do you normally just stretch the rear frames or do you also do the front most frame stem section? I inquired to Glen-L and haven't heard back. Any wisdom that can be imparted would be greatly appreciated. I have not attached the keel or battons yet, so I can make changes if needed.

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BarnacleMike
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Re: Utility skiff build question

Post by BarnacleMike » Mon Sep 17, 2018 7:45 pm

No, you don't adjust the stem. Just build it as shown in the plans.

The stem and its distance and connection to Frame #2 stay exactly the same as in the plans.

If you're lengthening the boat by 7 inches, then add 3.5 inches to the distance between Frame #2 and Frame #1. Also, add 3.5 inches to the distance between Frame #1 and the transom.
-Michael

"How long does it take to build a boat? Until it's finished" — yours truly

Blog (Utility & Zip): http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

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