Minnesota Squirt Build

Outboard designs up to 14'

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brockj
Posts: 74
Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj »

Not much progress this past weekend, but did figure out why the throttle was binding when adjusting to full throttle (spark plug cables were not routed underneath a tab). Installed the front deck support, additional seat supports, and battery tray. Decided to finalize the wiring for the dash. I was a little nervous leaving the gauges in place before the deck was installed, but it will be a lot easier now then trying to install the gauges after the deck is in place. I believe I am getting close to adhearing the sub-deck so trying to think of any other items I might be missing or will regret installing after the deck is in place. Only thing I can come up with is floatation. I started looking into that, and have seen a lot of great ideas, but have also read some warnings. Any recommendations? I realize this is a difficult one as if anyone has needed it, that is a big deal, but a little insurance can go a long way.

JimmY
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Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by JimmY »

Sounds like you are plugging away.

On floatation, I figured the hull will pretty much take care of itself if not add some buoyancy, gas is lighter than water so the tank should be ok, so the only thing left is the outboard and battery. My outboard weighs in at about 90lbs. and battery is another 10lbs., so I need to offset that. I bought three 3 (?) gallon collapsible water carriers. They are approximately 10"x10"x10" and should displace ~35lbs of water each. I just blow them up with air and tuck 2 in the rear compartment on each side of the splashwell and the other up front under the deck. They are cheap piece of mind along with the bilge pump. I like them because they are easy to move/remove if I need access to something, they don't trap moisture like cast in place foam might, and they are relatively cheap.

In three years of use, I've only come close to needing them once, when I was idling across the lake and got caught by surprise by a wake boat. It was too late to turn, the first wave was no problem, but the second and third came over the bow and drenched me pretty good. Even with that the bilge pump barely ran to clear out the water. Typically, if I'm under power I keep an eye out for large waves and wake boats and am able to out run them, avoid them, or throttle back and get the bow up so I don't submarine into them. Looking back on that, I'm glad I have the floatation in place.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

brockj
Posts: 74
Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj »

I decided to go with a mix of foam and the water bags. I cut 2" foam and am tacking it in to place with epoxy to the underside of the subdeck. Electrical is now complete, but I was finalizing the location of the control cables I noticed the outer casing of the throttle cable had cracked and was falling apart, so I will be ordering new control cables today. This is probably better anyway as I can now get ones that are the correct length instead of much too long. I have also been working on preparing the planking for the top. The resawing done by shop I have been purchasing my mahagony from was less then stellar, but I think I will have enough to work with. I did setup and resaw a couple strips (2 1/4" for the field) on my saw and it actually worked out quite well, though I would not have been able to do the cover boards. The planking is just under 3/8" thick. As for stain I am back and forth between Vintage Cherry dye (the color Art used on his coverboards/kingplank) or Brown Mahagony stain, both water based. I am mocking up a little panel with cutoffs to do a comparison, once the stain arrives I will post up some pics. My plan was to go with epoxy tinted white for the 'caulking', but open to feedback. I think most use microballoons to get the white, but I have seen others go with 3M 4000.

Starting to get close now, and the lake started opening up yesterday!

brockj
Posts: 74
Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj »

Finally, an update with pictures!!

I have been working when I can on weekends, but lots more happening. Been working through the best way to make everything work for the deck planking. The boards that I had resawed by the lumber yard were less then stellar, they even did up an extra because they realized it was bad. Good news was the extra board was very light, which I think will look great for the field, bad news I had to do a few more splices than I hoped, but I think it should still turn out well. I got the coverboards laid out, and ready to fit in the king plank. If my mearsurements are good, 1/4" gaps should be perfect.
IMG_7509.jpg
IMG_7508.jpg
As for colors, I was really torn, the dark mahogany looks great, but with the white 'caulking' I think the red really pops...
IMG_7510.jpg

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by Bill Edmundson »

If you go to the BOX store, they have 1/4" plastic tile spacers that help a lot for uniform spacing.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

brockj
Posts: 74
Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj »

Bill Edmundson wrote:
Sun Apr 11, 2021 5:21 pm
If you go to the BOX store, they have 1/4" plastic tile spacers that help a lot for uniform spacing.

Bill
That was exactly my plan, part of the reason I was happy that my original plan for 1/4" spacing worked out.

brockj
Posts: 74
Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj »

Well today was a fun, but a frustrating day. The best laid plans... When I laid out my deck, the plan was 2 1/4" plank boards with 1/4" gap, at the widest spot that would leave me a perfect 1/4" for the caulking around the coverboard. So when I was measuring things, my space must have grown, by about 1/4". So now, I am facing a dilemma. Easiest solution is to move up to 5/16" spacers, over the 7 boards I would more than make up the difference, my concerns is that gap too wide. Other option is to move down to 3/16" spacers and add a smaller plank on each side. Any thoughts or suggestions on the best path forward?

From a distance it doesn't look bad...
IMG_7515.jpg
IMG_7516.jpg
This is what the gap looks like as is:
IMG_7517.jpg

JimmY
Posts: 1234
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by JimmY »

Hi Joe,

I have 2.75 planks and 3/16" caulk lines. Laying out your deck is very subjective, but bumping up the width of your lines a bit to make up the difference is probably the easiest thing to do. 1/4" divided by 8 gaps = +1/32" or 5/32'" total, so if you go this route you may want to make custom spacers or add a little to your 1/4" spacers. If you went down to 3/16", how wide is the small plank (1/4" + 7/16" = ~3/4")? If it is a lot less than 2 1/4", it may look out of place. Most people when they look at your deck will just see pretty wood with cool white lines in it, and not notice a small filler piece.

A couple other things to think about:
- Trim ALL of your existing planks down and go from 7 to 8 plank and a smaller caulk line.
- Any chance of re-cutting your king plank a little wider to make up the difference?
- Cut your king plank narrower, and add a plank?
- Your cover boards don't appear to be glued down, any chance of moving them in a bit? An 1/8" here would mean you only have to increase the caulk lines by 1/64" each.
- Could you scab on a small piece to the two outside planks to take up the gap? This may not look out of place since the piece is tapered along the whole edge. Use the off cut from the same edge of the plank and it will blend right in.

You'll figure it out with a little chair time and a beer.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

brockj
Posts: 74
Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj »

Thanks for the recommendations Jim, I think stepping back was truly the best advice. I started going down a couple paths, trying to determine what would make the most sense and still look right to me. I played with different gap widths and board widths, and the numbers were getting more and more complicated. Finally, I measured and re-did the math with my original numbers and something did not seem right.

The distance from my King plank to the edge was varied by about 1/8" from either side. 17 3/4" and 17 7/8". 7 planks at 2 1/4" plus 1/4" gap should equal 17.5" plus the gap from the King plank to the first plank in the field should be back to perfect (or very close on the one side). I decided to grab my brass setup bar set and double check, nearly all of my gaps were slightly undersized. My guess is the 1/4" plywood (6mm Meranti) would come just undersized, and the white spacers were compressing, this was further complicated because the African Mahogany was getting a little twist. I went to the local box store and picked up a 3' 1/4" aluminum bar, which allowed me space a little better. I think the twist is still complicating a little, but it was MUCH better. I did endup squeezing my coverboards in a little bit to pick up a little slop and I think it will be good.
IMG_7521.jpg
And overall I am quite happy with the look of the deck.
IMG_7520.jpg
I also did layout the aft deck, that should still be fine as well, though I did adjust the aft-most coverboards to better align with the adjustmants made midship. Unfortunately, I ran out of the light colored planks for the aft, so some of those boards may have a little more variation and color then on the foredeck, but I guess that is the joy of working with natural products. If it bothers me enough in the future I can always sand down and stain the field boards.

I also started gluing down the coverboards, ran out of sandbags/concrete bags, so once the front end is dry I will adjust and glue down the aft.
IMG_7523.jpg

JimmY
Posts: 1234
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by JimmY »

I'm glad you figured it out.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

brockj
Posts: 74
Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj »

Glued down the decking and spent the last weekend plugging screw holes. Never took a picture of that, but did grab this one:
IMG_7533.jpg
Also glued on a wood rub rail. At some point I would like to do stainless, but the cost is so expensive and either way I would need a base to attach it. went with 3/4" and planed it a little thinner, but some of the wood was apparently brittle and basically blew up in the planner. Was going to only have one seam on each side, but needed to scab on a short piece to the end, then that same side when removing the pins to hold it in place cracked. Glued that up last night, guess we will see how it turns out.

As I am now preparring to sand the deck smooth (the long board sander is taking forever!), I am planning on the finishing stages. I have stain for the coverboards and king plank picked out, figured I would do that first. The question is should I:

Stain > Encaupsulate > Fill gaps (epoxy/microsphere mixture)

or

Stain > Fill gaps (epoxy/microsphere mixture) > Encapsulate

Any recommendations from those that have done this before?

brockj
Posts: 74
Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj »

After lots of sanding I was finally able to get the first couple coats of stain on my squirt. My goal from this winter was to launch in May, it will be close...
IMG_7572.jpg

Two8nine
Posts: 71
Joined: Tue Jul 11, 2017 8:21 am

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by Two8nine »

Looks great, I like watching the process on the deck. Thought of a name?

brockj
Posts: 74
Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by brockj »

Monday update:
Spent the weekend getting the first couple coats of encapsulation on the decking and startign filling the caulking! Encapsulation went pretty well, did a real thin first coat and a little thicker second coat (gave it overnight to dry). Then was ready to start filling in the caulk seams, wow what a messy job! I was using epoxy thickened with microballoons. I started with a peanut butter consistency and that was a nightmare to try and fill. I also realized I seemed to be going through a lot of material. I was using 4 pumps of epoxy (MAS) and about 7-8 heaping tablespoons of microballoons, the consistency seemed good, but at the rate I was going it was going to take in the neighborhood of 48-56 pumps of epoxy to fill. I decided to take some thin strips of marine ply to stretch my epoxy/microballoons, and glad I did, by the time I finished I used the entire quart of microballoons. Already ordered more as I still need to top off the seams. I did thin up my mixture to allow the epoxy to soak around the plywood filler, dropped it to about 4-5 tablespoons per 4 pumps, this was more of a marshmallow creme consistency. This worked really well with some large syringes I got for mixing my paint, and made the application a LOT less messy. Peeled off the tape after a couple hours, as that would have been a much bigger mess to clean up.

After encapsulation:
IMG_7578_1.jpg
After removing tape:
IMG_7579.jpg

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Minnesota Squirt Build

Post by Bill Edmundson »

When you're ready SS rub-rail this is the place to get it.

http://www.marineind.net/index.htm

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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