Squirt in Greece

Outboard designs up to 14'

Moderator: ttownshaw

Post Reply
ggeorge
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon May 18, 2020 11:31 am

Squirt in Greece

Post by ggeorge »

Hallo :D
Congratulations for the forum. I am new to the forum since I just bought the plans of squirt !!!

It will be basically my first boat since i have just started making a stitch and glue simple boat to get familiar with epoxy resin.

I would like to present you the construction status and mostly detect possible mistakes i may be making.

1. First issue is the transom thickness selection. The guidelines say transom thickness 1/2",3/4" optional (1,27 mm or 1,9mm). Which shall i select? Does the engine size matter? I am thinking of using 25hp two stroke or slightly higher if possible, 30 or 35hp.

I leave in Greece and the plywood are of 15, 18 και 20 mm thickness. Which shall i use? 20mm?

I have the same issue with the plywood thickness selection also at the remaining parts. Where it says 1/4" (6.35mm) I plan to use 6mm.

2.
Ι am thinking of making all parts from plywood including the frames. Is there any issue?
I am thinking of this because i dont have tools for wood (Planer Thicknesser) . It is easier for me if i use plywood. 1,5 cm or 2cm is good?

3. One more question. I want to join two plywoods together, one on top of the other Shall i use epoxy by itself or with Silica so that it will be more thick?

Thank you for your responses. Sorry for the many quastions !! :roll:

JimmY
Posts: 1234
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Squirt in Greece

Post by JimmY »

Welcome George!

To answer your questions with my opinions...

1.) Careful with motor size, since today's motors are heavier than in the 1950's when the Squirt was designed. 20hp to 25hp should be good for 25mph to 30mph or more. I would recommend 3/4" (20mm) plywood in any case. The weight increase is minor and will be plenty sturdy for whatever you decide. In general the closest metric thickness plywood should be fine (6mm for 1/4") as long as it is marine grade plywood.
2.) The frames should be made from solid lumber (mahogany, white oak, etc...). You will be fastening into the ends of the frames in some locations and the plywood will not take screws and fasteners well. Also plywood does not fair well when you get to that stage. I would look for a lumber supplier that can mill the wood for you, or buy already milled wood.
3.) For any kind of bonding, use a thickened epoxy to make sure there are no gaps. If you are adding silica to epoxy to thicken it, apply un-thickened epoxy to both surfaces, add the thickener to the rest of the epoxy and apply the thickened epoxy. Then clamp the two pieces together, but not too tight (it can squeeze out all the epoxy and end up with a weak joint).

I hope this helps, and post photos and questions along the way.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

ggeorge
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon May 18, 2020 11:31 am

Re: Squirt in Greece

Post by ggeorge »

Thank you for your response. :D
You helped with all my questions. I hoped i could make the frames from plywood but i realised it is not correct and i will use the wood you suggested.

For the time being i am reading the glen books i bought and i plan to start construction after the summer at a very slow pace. I will upload photos during the progress since i rely on your assistance. Many thanks!!!

ggeorge
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon May 18, 2020 11:31 am

Re: Squirt in Greece

Post by ggeorge »

Hallo.

I plan to start the construction soon. Up to now I have only designed the frames and I am ready to cut them.

I would like firstly to ask regarding the strength of the boat. In my village where I plan to have the boat, there are not any low docks at the sea but they are rather high as you can see in the photo.

Image

Also there is frequently wave and I cannot keep the boat parallel to the dock. So the only way to board the boat will be to step on the front part since it will be secured vertical to the dock with rope in the front and anchor in the back.

Do you think that the front part will handle me stepping on it or should I reinforce it and how?

Thank you!!!
Last edited by ggeorge on Sat Sep 12, 2020 11:26 am, edited 1 time in total.

JimmY
Posts: 1234
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Squirt in Greece

Post by JimmY »

The front of.my Squirt is plenty strong and you can stand on it. I have 1/4" plywood and about 3/16" of mahogany. You can always add more stringers or use thicker plywood if you have any concerns.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

ggeorge
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon May 18, 2020 11:31 am

Re: Squirt in Greece

Post by ggeorge »

Hallo. Thank you for our response.

When you say stringers you mean additional frame or only longitudinals (reinforcement parallel to the boat)?

JimmY
Posts: 1234
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Squirt in Greece

Post by JimmY »

Adding more longitudinals will be the easiest. The one deck frame on the Squirt has a central support to the stem, and is plenty strong. You could make this piece a little thicker and taller if you are worried about it.

My deck is a little more than 3/8" thick (plywood and mahogany) with the stock stringers and framing, and I would not hesitate to stand on my deck if I had to.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

ggeorge
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon May 18, 2020 11:31 am

Re: Squirt in Greece

Post by ggeorge »

Hallo. I have delayed to start the construction because i didnt have space. Finally i found the space and i am ready to begin! 

I decided to increase the length to 11ft. I bought sapeli of 4m length. I hope it will be enough. Which is the largest wood length for an 11ft squirt? 

 

For the frames, the transom and the keel i made templates from plexiglass. I scaned the drawings, converted to Autocad and they were cut with the use of laser.Parts that could not be cut with laser due to size were cut at a friends' cnc.


I have some questions for which i would like your opinion.


1. I see that it is suggested from glen-I to use nails when joining frames & gussets.

I see however that many use screws instead. Both silicon bronze.The good thing with the screws is that you can screw without glue and complete the join after confirming that everything is correct. This is not the case if you use nails. On the other hand the screws' head may harm the the plywood. What do you suggest? nails or screws? I am thinking of using nails.


2.I have the same question for planking plywood and frames. Also there it is suggested to use nails which as i understand remain inside, whereas many use screws which are removed when the glueing is completed. What do you suggest? I am thinking of using screws so as to attach them correctly. 


Thank you in advance
Attachments
IMG_20210309_174947.jpg
IMG_20210312_160211.jpg
IMG_20210309_095901.jpg

brockj
Posts: 74
Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:24 am
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Re: Squirt in Greece

Post by brockj »

For fasteners I went with the kit from Glen L, but I will say that throughout my build I have used standard construction screws when dry fitting and adjusting, then when gluing pieces together switch back to silicon bronze nails and screws from the kit. For pieces of plywood that were bent around the framing I would use the standard construction screws with pieces of wood to prevent the head from going through the plywood and provide more even disbursement of the head. You can see what I mean in this picture: download/file.php?id=36378&mode=view

Sometimes I would even let the glue/epoxy set, remove the construction screw and replace with a silicon bronze. I struggled quite a bit with the silicon bronze screws because the Frearson head would strip due to soft nature of the metal.

ggeorge
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon May 18, 2020 11:31 am

Re: Squirt in Greece

Post by ggeorge »

Thank you for your interest. :D

I will study what you send.
I will propably follow your advise. I have bought already the sqrews and nails that glen-l suggests
Thank you again.
Today i started with the router
Attachments
IMG_20210323_102553.jpg
IMG_20210323_100642.jpg

Post Reply

Return to “Small outboards”