[SQUIRT] Which wood for the frame...

Outboard designs up to 14'

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MerlinElMago
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[SQUIRT] Which wood for the frame...

Post by MerlinElMago »

Hello friends,
I have another question regarding the woods to use on the frame of the Squirt. I do have the "Boatbuilding with Plywood" book and I have had a look on the table contained therein, about wood species, but neither I am able to source any of the species of that table nor am I able to find the woods I do have on hand in the book.

Question:
I can get Mulberry ( Morus spp. ) and Spele ( Entandrophragma cylindricum ) at my local lumberyard.
I personally prefer Sapele, because of the look, but the guy who's selling there told me that he had "not seen anybody use Sapele in boatbuilding" ...ever! (sic.)

Does anybody know a bit of those lumbers as to give me a recommendation regarding weight, strength and rot resistance?
Last edited by MerlinElMago on Wed Oct 07, 2020 2:21 am, edited 1 time in total.
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JimmY
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Re: [SQUIRT] Which wood for the frame...

Post by JimmY »

Hi Merlin,

The frames, battens, chines, sheers, and carlings are all Sapele on my Squirt. It is nice stuff to work with and looks good. Watch the grain, as it can be pretty wild in spots. This is ok for frames, but you want nice straight grain for the longitudinals (battens, chines, sheers). It is heavier than African Mahogany, and lighter than White Oak. Here in Michigan, it was cheaper than White Oak and about the same price as African Mahogany. Bottom line, if/when I build another boat I will probably use Sapele again.

From Wiki: Demand for sapele increased as a mahogany substitute in recent years due to genuine mahogany becoming a CITES Appendix II listed species.[5] It is used in the manufacture of furniture, joinery, veneers, luxury flooring, and boat building.

I highly recommend laminating the chines and sheers in 2 or more layers. It will make bending them into place much easier and less likely to crack them.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

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MerlinElMago
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Re: [SQUIRT] Which wood for the frame...

Post by MerlinElMago »

Perfect, that sounds good.
I highly recommend laminating the chines and sheers in 2 or more layers. It will make bending them into place much easier and less likely to crack them.
Ok. I will do that. Could you elaborate a little more on how exactly to do that? Do you mean laminating and glueing beforehand or glueing the strips together in place?
Last edited by MerlinElMago on Wed Oct 07, 2020 2:21 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Bill Edmundson
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Re: [SQUIRT] Which wood for the frame...

Post by Bill Edmundson »

Put one layer on at a time then glue in place. Lots of clamps.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
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MerlinElMago
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Re: [SQUIRT] Which wood for the frame...

Post by MerlinElMago »

I think I did not explain myself...

I meant if I should glue the strips together on the frame or not.


Oh, and by the way... I intend to respace the frames to obtain a 11' Squirt. Does that make it harder or easier to bend the wood?
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Roberta
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Re: [SQUIRT] Which wood for the frame...

Post by Roberta »

Glue and screwcthe first layer on. Then you can apply successive layers on using just glue and clamps. Stagger any joints if you needed to scarf. When laminating, grain pattern isn't an issue because variations cancel out like plywood.

Sapele is great. I used it for all the framing and longitudinals except the motor stringers on the Torpedo. Some grain can be narly.

Roberta
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

JimmY
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Re: [SQUIRT] Which wood for the frame...

Post by JimmY »

Like Roberta and Bill said, glue and screw one layer on and let it cure. Then glue the second layer on and use a lot of clamps. I found simple spring clamps at the local home depot for $1.00 each. Enough to space them out every 6" to 8". You don't want to squeeze out all of the epoxy, but you want to make sure there are no gaps either.
First layer glued and screwed in place
First layer glued and screwed in place
Second layer glued and clamped in place
Second layer glued and clamped in place
Stretching the frame to 11' will make bending the chines and sheers easier, but not much. The Squirt plans call for the sheers to be two layers, and the chines should be as well. The other option is to steam bend them.

Good luck and post photos of your progress, and don't be afraid to ask questions. We've all been there.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

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MerlinElMago
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Re: [SQUIRT] Which wood for the frame...

Post by MerlinElMago »

Thanks to all of your kind replies...
and don't be afraid to ask questions. We've all been there.
I see. This forum is very nice because all of you are very kind answering all kind of questions. For me sometimes it's difficult, because I'm not a native speaker, so I appreciate all you guys taking you time to answer.
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