Jim's Michigan Zip

Outboard designs up to 14'

Moderator: ttownshaw

Hercdrvr
Posts: 1525
Joined: Mon May 11, 2015 12:52 pm
Location: McKinney TX

Re: Jim's Michigan Zip

Post by Hercdrvr »

Once the light clicks on, fairing is fun and really not very hard.
Matt B

laubenthal
Posts: 49
Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2020 7:08 am
Location: Flint Michigan, USA

Re: Jim's Michigan Zip

Post by laubenthal »

Finished sanding and planing frame members to shape (minus transom) still have do cutouts for longitudinal pieces and gussets, here is frame 5-1/2 playing around ways to clamp them down. This seems to work.
Attachments
PXL_20210131_175804891.jpg
Jim

Steve B.
Posts: 113
Joined: Sun Aug 16, 2020 5:55 am
Location: Laconia, NH

Re: Jim's Michigan Zip

Post by Steve B. »

I used a sheet of poly under the frame and pneumatic nailed the frames to the plywood template below. Worked like a charm! Your build is looking good, Keep it up!
--Steve
Building a ZZZIP!

laubenthal
Posts: 49
Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2020 7:08 am
Location: Flint Michigan, USA

Re: Jim's Michigan Zip

Post by laubenthal »

Thanks Steve,
New blade in my cheap handsaw made quick work of the gussets.
Very little tare out of this meranti plywood compared to my jigsaw.
The plan now is to stack them and sand the stack of similar parts to match them, although they are not bad just from cutting.
Attachments
PXL_20210202_155710359.jpg
Jim

laubenthal
Posts: 49
Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2020 7:08 am
Location: Flint Michigan, USA

Re: Jim's Michigan Zip

Post by laubenthal »

I let out my first cuss words, started with an S
I am cutting notches for keel and battens, the boards are marked as per plans but the plans have the notches 1" deep. As far as I know they are supposed to be 1" nominal or 3/4" after milling. So I re-marked the notches and stated cutting.
I accidently cut too deep into the side of one notch by about 1/4"
The keel and battens are still at 4/4" rough. I have always planned on milling only enough to smooth out the surfaces so I will likely deepen the notches a bit anyway.
Attachments
PXL_20210202_173805607.jpg
Jim

neel thompson
Posts: 1551
Joined: Fri Oct 01, 2010 2:33 pm
Location: Collegeville, Pa

Re: Jim's Michigan Zip

Post by neel thompson »

Check your plans. I think at some point you may be cutting that part of the frame away to make limbers along each side of the keel. Not sure if your boat plans call for limbers but, if they do, that would make one or two less that you will have to make... If not, cut the area square and epoxy a piece of wood in there. Not a big deal either way.... Neel

JimmY
Posts: 1234
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Jim's Michigan Zip

Post by JimmY »

Easy enough fix, like Neel said.

I milled all of the keel and battens before cutting into the frames. That way you can ensure a perfect fit.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

laubenthal
Posts: 49
Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2020 7:08 am
Location: Flint Michigan, USA

Re: Jim's Michigan Zip

Post by laubenthal »

Thanks for your reply, the limbers are already cut, that is the curved area towards the bottom of the notch,
After I deepen the notch to fit the batten it will only be about a quarter inch left, and also considering the over cut is cross grain, it shouldn't be able to expand, I'll work some epoxy into the cut and call it good.
Jim

laubenthal
Posts: 49
Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2020 7:08 am
Location: Flint Michigan, USA

Re: Jim's Michigan Zip

Post by laubenthal »

JimmY wrote:
Wed Feb 03, 2021 7:01 am
Easy enough fix, like Neel said.

I milled all of the keel and battens before cutting into the frames. That way you can ensure a perfect fit.
That would have been a better way, cart before horse kind of thing. The notches are purposely under size, I still have to open them up to fit but not till they are on the building form.
That's the plan anyway.
Jim

laubenthal
Posts: 49
Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2020 7:08 am
Location: Flint Michigan, USA

Re: Jim's Michigan Zip

Post by laubenthal »

A little frustration is kicking in.
I am cutting out my stem and clearly it is notched for a full 1" thick keel, I bought 1" rough, it will not be 1" when milled.
I can cut the notch shallower or use 5/4 stock I have but would have to scarf joint them.
I just re-read the instructions and they clearly state all lumber marked 1" will be finished as thick as possible and will be about 3/4" when milled.
How thick where your keel and battens on your zip?
Jim

JimmY
Posts: 1234
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Jim's Michigan Zip

Post by JimmY »

Hi Jim,

I'm sorry you are getting frustrated. Everyone wants to jump in and start throwing frames together. But as you are learning, when woodworking it is difficult to mill wood to exact dimensions. Sometime you need to run a board through the planer one more time to get get of a low spot.

On the Glen-L plans, all of the stock dimensions are nominal and you should plan on a finished size (typically -1/4"). If you have a full 1" thick keel, it is fine but don't worry if yours's comes out closer to 3/4". Mill all of these pieces first, and then size all of the notches to fit what you end up with. If you are worried about the keel being too thin, mill one side and leave the bottom side rough. The bottom will be faired later and smoothed out then. Some of this will also depend on your choice of wood. White Oak is stronger than Mahogany, so there has to be some safety margin built into the framing wood dimensions. Ultimately you what enough wood to be able to fair the framing prior to sheeting. So mill the keel and battens and cut the notches to fit and allow for fairing.

Hopefully some Zip builders will chime in or their experience and keel dimensions.

Epoxy and small filler pieces are your friend. :D
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

laubenthal
Posts: 49
Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2020 7:08 am
Location: Flint Michigan, USA

Re: Jim's Michigan Zip

Post by laubenthal »

thanks Jim, I really need to mill these parts and go from there,
I was thinking the same thing, just mill one side, the other side will be faired anyway.
I just re-watched Josh's videos, his keel was 13/16 and that is close to what mine will be once one side is planed. For rough cut these boards are fairly smooth to begin with so not much to take off.
Jim

User avatar
Roberta
Posts: 7201
Joined: Tue Jul 31, 2007 5:23 pm
Location: East Troy, Wisconsin

Re: Jim's Michigan Zip

Post by Roberta »

Be especially mindful of the keel notches in the frames as the keel is beveled. Use a scrap of a cross sectional piece to draw the notches on the frames to prevent going too deep. Once notches are cut, a drum sander works nicely to shape limbers. Also sand out any cuts that may propagate cracks.

Roberta
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

laubenthal
Posts: 49
Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2020 7:08 am
Location: Flint Michigan, USA

Re: Jim's Michigan Zip

Post by laubenthal »

Thanks Roberta,
I bought a few tools when I decide to build a boat, one of them is an oscillating belt/spindle sander. What a useful tool that has turned into. I sanded all my frames and gussets with it and my limbers with the right size spindle turned out perfect.
So far I have only cut notches 3/4 deep, I want to make sure I have enough stock on the keel to fair off.
Jim

User avatar
Roberta
Posts: 7201
Joined: Tue Jul 31, 2007 5:23 pm
Location: East Troy, Wisconsin

Re: Jim's Michigan Zip

Post by Roberta »

If you happen to go too deep, shims will work.

Those sanders are great.

Happy building,

Roberta :D
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

Post Reply

Return to “Small outboards”