uh-oh, transom bevel

Outboard designs up to 14'

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Jim Anderson
Posts: 32
Joined: Mon Dec 07, 2020 5:07 pm
Location: American Samoa

uh-oh, transom bevel

Post by Jim Anderson »

I cut out a transom on 3/4 marine ply and didn't like one cut, so I used the other side to cut out a nice transom that matched the full scale drawing. Now I see the transom bevel required me to cut the bottom length longer to account for the bevel. Any way to fix that? Add a strip to the top? Don't worry about it? Buy another sheet of 3/4 ply? Rats, that stuff is $100 a sheet down here.

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DrBryanJ
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Joined: Fri Jul 22, 2011 6:05 am
Location: Pompton Plains, NJ

Re: uh-oh, transom bevel

Post by DrBryanJ »

Jim, I believe you could epoxy on a strip. Perhaps other with more experience than me will chime in.
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."
We're still happily married, but now she just wants "the dam boat out of the garage."

Forge
Posts: 98
Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2019 11:15 am

Re: uh-oh, transom bevel

Post by Forge »

Hi Jim, I wouldn't worry about it for now. Add the bevel to the bottom so the important stuff still lines up correctly. And then later once you trial fit your motor, add some material to the top.
I cut my transom correctly but still found the top to be 1/4" too short when I hung the motor and the clamping width was also too wide. So I added a 1/4" strip on top, and a large panel on the back. I also added a 3/4" piece in the front to take the abuse from the motor clamps.
I also wanted to add a layer of wood to protect the transom from denting cracking etc when taking the motor off and on every season.
Added 1/4" ply to protect the transom, and 3/4 in front
Added 1/4" ply to protect the transom, and 3/4 in front
This way, if the epoxy paint cracks and moisture gets into the wood. Only the extra strip is susceptible to rot since the transom is protected under another bonded layer of epoxy. My boat will be stored outdoors for long winters wo I am being extra cautious on rot etc...

But you definitely shouldn't have any issues simply adding material later.
No harm no foul!
Aerospace Engineer, Pilot, Sailor, Tinkerer and Surf Bum

Jim Anderson
Posts: 32
Joined: Mon Dec 07, 2020 5:07 pm
Location: American Samoa

Re: uh-oh, transom bevel

Post by Jim Anderson »

Thanks for the responses DrBryan and Forge. I didn't have any trouble adding a strip to the bottom with the 14 degree bevel. I figure since there will be 2 pieces to the bottom frame the strip won't be hanging there alone.

I hear you Forge about the motor clamping top measurement and backing. Right now the height of the transom is 19 1/2" just short of 20" motor shaft. I think I'll try to cut the top frame with a 1/2" high, 3/4" wide corner (like an 'L') and the 2" width against the inside to clamp over the top of the transom. I have some 2" mahogany to do that. I'll also add the 3/4" ply motor clamp backing inside. I'll probably use an aluminum plate for the motor clamps.

I don't see how the design calls for a 3" motor cross brace the entire width of the transom with the plywood backing unless it butts to the planking. I'll look at that.

Thanks guys.

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