Transom Drill Blunder...

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Onplane
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Transom Drill Blunder...

Post by Onplane » Sun Dec 19, 2010 6:22 pm

Made another boo-boo on the Malahini...

I did not reinforce the transom until after the flip. And now I need to drill the bolt holes through the shoe brace through the back of the transom wall. Plans call for 2 - 1/4" bolts.

Unfortunately, even though I planned it out, I still managed to drill the incorrect angle through the shoe brace and now my bolt is through in such an angle that I'm not sure if I can get another bolt through at the correct angle without drilling into the one I drilled incorrectly. And I don't want to drill another one at the incorrect angle. Also, I'm not sure if the one that's in now is even doing the job it is supposed to do.

Take a look at the attached pics and let me know what to do... please!

The shoe brace is cut at the smaller vertical distance to allow for a short shaft motor if that's what I get later on, so the vertical distance is pretty small. In addition, the hole I drilled incorrectly was the top hole, not the bottom hole, so that's why I say, I'm not even sure I can drill another hole without drilling into the one that's going down at the wrong angle...
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transom drill.jpg
_4756.JPG
_4755.JPG

Trackhappy
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Re: Transom Drill Blunder...

Post by Trackhappy » Sun Dec 19, 2010 6:32 pm

Personally, I would just fill the holes with thickened epoxy and re-drill. You could make a new knee of course, but if it is glued in then it would be fun to get out.
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ttownshaw
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Re: Transom Drill Blunder...

Post by ttownshaw » Sun Dec 19, 2010 7:26 pm

Agreed! You could even use a dowel rod and epoxy to fill the hole. Pull it out and redrill...that's my first opinion. The second option is to just leave it as is. You could add a couple of epoxy fillets on the sides of the knee for extra reassurance.
Bill

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vupilot
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Re: Transom Drill Blunder...

Post by vupilot » Sun Dec 19, 2010 7:42 pm

I'd be inclined to leave it as is.

If you are worried about it is there any reason anyone can think of that he couldnt add a couple other similar braces on top of the battens on each side of this brace? Would that give a little peace of mind?

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Onplane
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Re: Transom Drill Blunder...

Post by Onplane » Mon Dec 20, 2010 5:49 am

So, I thought about this all night, and I'm thinking plugging the incorrect angle hole with epoxy and a dowel is probably the best option. After that I can go back in and drill the top hole from the inside of the boat going out, and then drill the bottom hole from the outside going in. The vertical distance between the incoming and outgoing holes is 2" and there's really only about 3 inces of flat vertical on the shortened shoe brace.

What threw me off to begin with was the angle of the top of the "boot" of the shoe (which establishes the angle of the motorwell). I got ready to drill and then set my drill up parallel to that surface, wheras, I should have been perpindicular to the transom surface. (Note: This is what happens when you are tired, don't really get enough time in large chunks to think things through, and it's like just above freezing in your garage...) :oops:

I would like to leave it as is, believe me, but I just don't think that the way it is now is really accomplishing the purpose of the shoe brace to begin with.

So now, I just need to figure the dowl thing out... I'm pretty sure Lowe's and Home Depot don't sell White Oak dowels... so it should be interesting to see how I plug the hole... I could do a square dowel, and fill in around the surplus of the hole with thickened epoxy, or I may have a plug cutter that is the right size, but that would only really get me maybe maximum of 1 inch long pieces, which I guess I could tap down the hole in segments until the full path is blocked... we'll see... Anyone else have any suggestions?

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Onplane
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Re: Transom Drill Blunder...

Post by Onplane » Mon Dec 20, 2010 5:49 am

Forgot to add pic.
Attachments
TRANS.jpg

wbbaer
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Re: Transom Drill Blunder...

Post by wbbaer » Mon Dec 20, 2010 7:38 am

Dayton, OH has a Woodcraft shop on Alex-Bell Rd. which might be expected to carry white oak dowels.
Bill

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billy c
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Re: Transom Drill Blunder...

Post by billy c » Mon Dec 20, 2010 7:49 am

if the dowel/epoxy filler is what you are leaning towards you could cut a square piece of stock to the diameter then knock the corners off with your plane you want some space for the epoxy to grab
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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Transom Drill Blunder...

Post by Bill Edmundson » Mon Dec 20, 2010 8:26 am

knock the corners off with your plane
Watch Your Fingers :!: :oops: :wink:

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vupilot
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Re: Transom Drill Blunder...

Post by vupilot » Mon Dec 20, 2010 9:48 am

Its being painted over at the boot stripe isnt it? Then why does it have to be a white oak dowel?

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billy c
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Re: Transom Drill Blunder...

Post by billy c » Mon Dec 20, 2010 10:28 am

Bill Edmundson wrote:
knock the corners off with your plane
Watch Your Fingers :!: :oops: :wink:

Bill
:shock: :shock: :shock: you can use a longer piece of stock so you can secure it while hand planing :)
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rbrandenstein
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Re: Transom Drill Blunder...

Post by rbrandenstein » Mon Dec 20, 2010 1:55 pm

I've got plans for a Malahini build, and it states to use 5/16" bolts for the transom/knee through-bolt.
I think you stated you used 1/4" bolts and I just wanted to make sure you double-checked that.

Bob
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Trackhappy
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Re: Transom Drill Blunder...

Post by Trackhappy » Mon Dec 20, 2010 4:15 pm

Cut a square piece longer than necessary, put it in the drill chuck and spin it while you hold sandpaper against it. :D

Oh, and if you can't fit it in the chuck, screw a wood screw in the end of it and cut the head off the screw then chuck that.
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Onplane
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Re: Transom Drill Blunder...

Post by Onplane » Tue Dec 21, 2010 6:31 am

Thanks for the tips guys, I managed to catch a little bit of a cold, so hopefully I can get at it in another few days, but for now, the couch is calling me!

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Re: Transom Drill Blunder...

Post by gdcarpenter » Tue Dec 21, 2010 8:59 pm

Hi there again, most 'big boxes' carry hardwood dowels. They are usually available in poplar and red oak most commonly, and may be in other wood varieties. They are usually where the 'select' pieces of hardwood are. Once it is doweled and epoxied you will be back to 'square one' and ready to go again. I'm starting to loose track of my own 'oopses' - part of that old learning curve..
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