16' Ski Boat Restoration

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Milhouse »

Seems like there is some good info here
Looks like they recommend the corkscrew method and about 2 to 4 layers

Also here on Glen-L Forum
Bill Edmundson wrote:
Wed Nov 05, 2014 7:12 am
Jamestown & Discount Inboard Marine have Gore-Tex
Bill
Is this the Gore-Tex stuff you were talking about Bill?
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packing.jpg
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Bill Edmundson »

Jim

I believe that's it.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

riplash
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by riplash »

Jim,

I believe the rudder is supposed to be bent like that to allow you to remove the propshaft without having to pull the rudder.

Ryan.

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Bill Edmundson »

I just offset the rudder just enough to get the shaft by, no bending.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Milhouse »

riplash wrote:
Thu Nov 28, 2019 10:53 am
I believe the rudder is supposed to be bent like that to allow you to remove the propshaft without having to pull the rudder.
Ryan - I had not thought of that.

I took it down to a marine machine shop to straighten it out and also machine a keyway that should have been there for the tiller arm. If I don't get a hold of them before they bend it back I suppose I can always bend it again if needed. I imagine that if I need to replace the prop shaft because I hit something there may be damage to the rudder as well. I think I also need to lift the motor out of the way to get enough room to get a bearing puller in there to pull the coupler off the end of the propshaft.
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Milhouse »

I made a new bracket for the rudder today. Fun little project. I did most of it on the table saw. I used the tennoning jig to cut the shoulders. I then cleaned up the shoulders with a shoulder plane that I don't get to use much either.

The angle is 20 degrees to correct for the tilt of the transom.

The existing one was looking a bit rotten. The wood was not protected at all. I suspect crevice corrosion was the cause of the deterioration of the aluminum bracket because there was no bedding between the old block and bracket.
Attachments
20191130_152839.jpg
rudder block1.jpg
corrosion1.jpg
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Milhouse »

I made a new bracket out of steel ($2 at the scrap yard). I will wait to drill the holes for the bearing until I mock it up with the rudder.

I also found an exact replacement bearing (Sealmaster SF-16) on Ebay for $35, they really do have everything.
Attachments
bearing.jpg
angle.jpg
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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mrintense
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by mrintense »

Jim,

Do you think you'll have the boat ready for this coming spring/summer?
Carl

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise

Clipper Boating

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Milhouse »

Hi Carl, she is certainty coming along, I hope to take her out this summer.

Here is the list I published on Oct 14, 2018.
Items in green were completed by 5/11/19.
Items in blue were completed by 12/1/19.
Items in red were completed by 12/28/19.

Now I JUST need to:
1. Re-align the coupler to the shaft, oh Joy!
2. Wire it up properly and neatly
3. Fully Install the dash
4. Install the steering cable
5. Design and Fabricate Transmission Shifter linkage
6. Fabricate Throttle Linkage out of metal
7. Complete the mid-deck
8. Varnish the deck
9. Caulk the deck (I may epoxy it, I am still on the fence)
10. Paint the Hull
11. Install hatches
12. Research/Buy/Install some sort of non-skid removable flooring
13. Fabricate/install Battery Box
14. Build a Engine cover (research sound deadening materials)
15. Build/Install the Front Seat
16. Build/Install the Rear Seat
17. Install the Gas tanks
18. Mount the Fuel Pump
19. Plumb the fuel system
20. Rebuild Trailer
a. Sandblast
b. Replace rusty bits
c. Paint
d. Axles

e. Brakes
f. Wheels/tires
g. Tongue
/ Actuator
h. Bunks
i. Lights
j. Winch
21. Put the boat on the trailer
22. Install Accessories (Nav Lights, Horn, Anchor Light, Bilge Pump, Cleats, ski tow hooks, courtesy lights)
23. Buy / Install Rub Rail
24. Oil Change
25. Launch
26. Celebrate/Drink Beers
27. Design, fabricate/buy/Install Windshield
28. Make/install a new/beefier Alternator Mount
29. Research/buy/install Boat Cover

Additional Items added 12/1/19:
1. Upholster front seat
2. Upholster rear seat
3. Upholster engine cover seat
4. Install floor over bilge
5. Fabricate / install cockpit molding
6. Restore the Rudder:
a. Fabricate / install new rudder mount
b. Get a keyway machined in rudder shaft for tiller arm
c. Buy / Replace rudder stuffing box packing
d. Buy / Replace rudder bearing
e. Restore tiller arm (remove green oxidation from bronze)
7. Install Bilge Blower
8. Install USB Charger
9. Buy / Install Bilge Pump exhaust port fitting (I think I will install it STBD Aft so I can look back, while driving, and see if it is pumping).
10. Buy / Install Bilge Blower exhaust vent
11. Epoxy encapsulate the underside of the deck and covering boards
12. Mount depth sounder
13. Install and test Man Overboard Device
14. Buy / Install steering wheel
Last edited by Milhouse on Sat Dec 28, 2019 2:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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mrintense
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by mrintense »

Looks like one of my many punch lists!! :lol: :lol:

Problem with mine is that I keep adding things faster than I take them off.
Carl

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise

Clipper Boating

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Milhouse »

Any thoughts on how to mount the gas tanks? There is one tank on each side. This is where the original tanks were but they were integral, made of fiberglass, I cut them out in this post

The floor is flotation foam covered with fiberglass, the sides are just fiberglass. Can't screw into either. I don't really want to add a piece of wood to screw into because the space is a premium.

I was thinking of bedding the tabs in 4200 and then fiberglassing the tabs.

In the one little section at the top where the tab is too high I was going to add a little piece of wood to fill the gap.
Attachments
20191215_133230.jpg
20191215_133245.jpg
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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mrintense
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by mrintense »

Here's a good article

https://www.yachtsurvey.com/fueltank.htm

How are you going to connect the two tanks to the engine. Will they be interconnected or simply each connected separately?
Carl

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise

Clipper Boating

TomB
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by TomB »

Jim,

I would glass in wood blocking setting on the hull step at each end of the tank and then screw the tank tabs to them (probably need slots in the tabs for expansion). If the tank wants to move away from the hull at the bottom, give the bottom tabs some 4200 bedding.

Tom

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Milhouse »

Thanks Carl, I think I have read that before; it was good to read it over again and remind me about adding the plastic strips under the tank. I certainly want to prevent against crevice corrosion as I have seen its effects on the boat and the trailer so far. I am a little leary of only using 5200 to hold it down as the example assumed the tank is in some sort of cradle it says: "Don't worry that ballooning of the tank will break the seal. The weight of the fuel in the tank will pretty much hold the tank in place." However, my tanks are so skinny though there is most likely not much ballooning taking place.
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Milhouse »

TomB wrote:
Sun Dec 15, 2019 5:10 pm
Jim,

I would glass in wood blocking setting on the hull step at each end of the tank and then screw the tank tabs to them (probably need slots in the tabs for expansion). If the tank wants to move away from the hull at the bottom, give the bottom tabs some 4200 bedding.

Tom
Thanks Tom - The fasteners into some wood blocks at the step + the plastic standoffs that Carl's article mentioned will probably do the trick.
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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