16' Ski Boat Restoration

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Milhouse » Sun Dec 15, 2019 5:37 pm

mrintense wrote:
Sun Dec 15, 2019 4:36 pm
How are you going to connect the two tanks to the engine. Will they be interconnected or simply each connected separately?
They will go to a 4 way valve (off, both, tank 1 , tank 2)

Groco Fv-450-x
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Bill Edmundson » Sun Dec 15, 2019 5:39 pm

The aluminum tanks need to be separated from the boat so air can dry the area. I have used nylon strapping. It doesn't hold water. Aluminum and stainless steel need to "breath" to be stable.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Milhouse » Thu Dec 26, 2019 2:38 pm

I ordered some Fiber Reinforced Plastic (FRP) sheets from McMaster

The plan is to glue (5200) some strips to the bottom of the tank to raise it off the deck 1/4" inch so it can dry out.

I will then cut a section of deck and foam where the end tabs are and glass in a 1/2" thick pad of FRP. I will tap some 1/4-20 holes and add a helicoil (I will experiment with this before I glue it in) to allow it to be removable.

For the side tabs at the step I will add another piece of FRP and epoxy it in. I will Tap some holes it it as well.

I was looking into using starboard (does not absorb water) but learned that nothing really sticks to it so not a great idea in this case.
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Milhouse » Thu Dec 26, 2019 2:51 pm

I installed the reworked rudder.
  • I fabricated the angle bracket and the epoxy encapsulated wooden angle spacer, they were bedded with 4200
  • I bought and installed a new bearing (Sealmaster SF-16 3C)
  • I had a 1/4" keyway machined in the rudder and tiller at a locla machine shop. It only had a setscrew before.
  • Cleaned the green patina off of the bronze tiller with lemon juice, baking soda and a brass brush
  • Installed new packing in the stuffing box

I used TEFPACK 1/4" Packing. I tried to get three layers in but I only had 2 threads to get it started and it stripped out. I was able to reowrk (dremel) the threads on the nut into reasonable shape again and was able to thread the nut onto the stuffing box with only two layers of packing.

To install the packing I wrapped the packing around the shaft and then cut it on an angle with a razor blade; it cut really nicely. That made one donut. I put that donut of packing into the nut and then repeated the process, this time with the cut spot 180degrees apart from the other one.
Attachments
Before
Before
After
After
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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mrintense
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by mrintense » Fri Dec 27, 2019 2:53 pm

Nice restoration on the rudder shaft assembly Jim. :D
Carl
a.k.a. Clipper

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Milhouse » Sat Dec 28, 2019 5:34 pm

I installed the steering cable today and it works. I have 2 turns of the wheel lock-to-lock (720 deg). The rope is pretty snug but not guitar string tight.

I see that some boats have springs for tension, from what I have read it is to allow outboards to tilt (they need a variable length rope vs motor tilt position). Since there is no need for a variable length rope in this case are the springs truly needed?

If something wacks the rudder I can see that the spring would take some load off of the pulleys so they don't get pulled out or broken. The spring would compensate for some rope stretch (I am using the plastic covered existing wire rope 3/16 dia including plastic as it looked in good condition).

This is the same setup that the original owner had; no springs in the original setup.

If the springs are really needed I could potentially add one on each of the cable runs on the sides (see pic #3).

Thoughts?
Attachments
20191228_161054.jpg
20191228_161334.jpg
spring.jpg
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

JimmY
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by JimmY » Mon Dec 30, 2019 7:01 am

Hi Jim,

The only reason I could see you needing a spring would be if the geometry of the system changed at different points while turning. This would cause the cable to tighten up or go slack as the steering wheel/rudder moved. From what I see, the control arm on the rudder with the round groove should have a constant radius over the full movement of the rudder. The only question is if the cable stacks on top of another layer as you turn the wheel which would cause a change in radius there? If not, then I think the original designers got it right.

I fly R/C airplanes, and sometimes use a pull-pull cable set up on the rudder on an airplane. If you don't have the same dimensions at the servo and the rudder, the cables can bind up or go slack. Even with careful measuring, I typically add a small spring to one side of the cable just to be safe since a stalled servo can draw a lot of current and drain your battery.

There is a lot of discussion about cables on boat rudders, and a broken cable will cause a loss of steering. I was riding on a friend's Ski Centurion back in the summer and he was showing me how maneuverable it was. When he turned the wheel hard, I was on the other side of the boat in the blink of an eye! :shock: I'm not sure what would happen if a cable broke, if the rudder would tend to self-center or not, but I would make sure your set up is solid and have a routine maintenance and inspection routine.

My $0.02
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

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mrintense
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by mrintense » Mon Dec 30, 2019 3:48 pm

With aircraft cable systems, there often are springs in the system. Additionally the use of turnbuckles makes it easier to adjust tension as the cables stretch over time.
Carl
a.k.a. Clipper

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise

Clipper's Vera Cruise Build

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Milhouse » Sat Jan 04, 2020 6:06 pm

Thanks for the tips Jim and Carl. For now I will forgoe the spring as it seems to be working well. Smooth operation and no binding with a snug rope.

Over the past few days I got the gas tanks ready to install.

On the bottom of the tanks I 5200ed some 1/4" FRP. I also 5200ed any gaps between the mounting tabs and the tank that were not fully welded to keep water out and hopefully prevent crevice corrosion.

I cut out a chunk of floor and epoxied and glassed in some FRP. I Epoxy primed and painted it and then tapped some 1/4 - 20 holes. I also 5200ed the wooden screw blocks in place.

I did a test fit with no sealant today and it is rock solid.
Attachments
Holes in the glass floor exposing the flotation foam
Holes in the glass floor exposing the flotation foam
1/2" FRP epoxied in and glassed
1/2" FRP epoxied in and glassed
Tanks test fit
Tanks test fit
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Milhouse » Sat Jan 04, 2020 6:22 pm

Thoughts on routing the tank outlet straight or at 90 degrees?

There will be less head for the pump to pump if i use the 90. Would not want anyone to step on it though. The hose would get routed along hte back.

I i use the straight then the house would get routed up under the covering boards.

The hoses are are just sitting on there for illustration purposes now. The tank, the 90 deg street elbow and the anti-siphon valve are all aluminum. 3/8" NPT.
Attachments
90Deg
90Deg
Straight
Straight
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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mrintense
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by mrintense » Sun Jan 05, 2020 4:21 pm

Having very little boating experience I cannot say which is better, however, from a purely structural point of view, I would think the 90 degree would hold up better.
Carl
a.k.a. Clipper

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise

Clipper's Vera Cruise Build

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