Lee's Monaco utility build

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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denbrlr
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by denbrlr »

Thank you for the replies.

Ken, Yes, I know drilling this hole scares a lot of people but I am trying not to let it scare me too much :shock: :) I am trying to decide if I want to drill it a little bigger so I have a little more margin. I am not quite ready to drill yet but that time is approaching :)

Roberta, I have looked over your posts about this recently. It is good to remember that the actual length of the hole is not too long. That will give more fudge factor space. I will have to deal with routing a recessed area for the strut. That will be yet another challenge along the journey. And yes, I do keep telling myself that it is wood and can be repaired but thank you for the reminder :)

Lee
YouTube channel: Boat Builder Lee
Monaco build YouTube playlist: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCP4Edb ... /playlists

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kens
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by kens »

Routing a recess for the strut is in no way a requirement. That is how Roberta did it, but not required
If this is your first build, then don't complicate it
Oak..........the juice ain't worth the squeeze :D :shock: :o :)

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Roberta
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by Roberta »

I didn't router the recesses. They were built in. Look closely at my build thread. Lee will have to fashion the lands in the hull for the strut and rudder port the traditional way . Please don't make false assumptions about my work, Ken.

Roberta
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

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Rich Coey
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by Rich Coey »

Routing a recess for the strut is not required but is helpful if you need to make adjustments to the angle.
Roberta set up a pad for the strut and drilled the shaft hole before planking the hull. A good approach if you know that early exactly where your engine will sit. Makes it easy to see the exact position of the shaft.

Rich

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Rich Coey
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by Rich Coey »

In my opinion what is not required is lining the shaft hole with a fiberglass tube. I have had and have seen more than one boat with motor stringers wrapped in fiberglass where water has gotten in and traps the water in and rots the wood. If you are careful about sealing the hole prior to installing the tube you are good. If you just goop up the hole with epoxy and put the tube in you may be in for trouble later. Just seal the hole with CPES then a couple coats of epoxy then paint when you do the bottom. It will be sealed as good as the bottom and you are good. Sometimes a tube is used instead of a shaft log and that is different.

Rich

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Roberta
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by Roberta »

Rich raises an important point regarding properly sealing the prop shaft hole. Don't assume just coating the tube and sticking it in will suffice. Seal the exposed wood first.

I actually didn't know the exact location or height of the motor in the Torpedo until it was bolted down. I used scale drawings from engine suppliers to use in scale drawings of the boat. What I did know was where the designer, Glen, wanted specific parts placed regarding the prop strut and rudder port. Using this and other information I extrapolated dictated where I located them. Aluminum angle motor mounts were clamped in place at estimated locations and free to be adjusted as I positioned the motor to align it to the prop shaft hub. Then the holes for the angle mounts were drilled into the stringers. I positioned the adjustable engine mounts in the center to allow for any tweaking.

Roberta
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

denbrlr
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by denbrlr »

Thank you all for the discussion. I do like the idea of recessing the strut at least some into the hull. The base is pretty thick so it seems like a good thing to do.

In regard to sealing the prop hole, I definitely will seal up the wood real good before installing the fiberglass tube. I also need to make sure to seal the edge of the tube with the fiberglass on the bottom. I do like the idea of a fiberglass tube but now you all got me wondering if I even need one :? :)

Roberta, I have been planning on a similar approach to installing the engine.

Lee
YouTube channel: Boat Builder Lee
Monaco build YouTube playlist: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCP4Edb ... /playlists

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Roberta
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by Roberta »

The tube is a choice thing. I think it just makes a neater hole.

You will need to provide a flat land for the rudder port and strut. You may be able to improvise a fixture for a router or file to get it properly oriented.

Roberta
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

denbrlr
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by denbrlr »

Roberta,

In addition to a cleaner hole, I also think a tube will better protect the hole long term if you get it sealed properly. I do plan make some sort of jig for my router to make those flat spots. I haven't used my router that much so I will go slow with that part so I don't make gouges for me to fix :)

Lee
YouTube channel: Boat Builder Lee
Monaco build YouTube playlist: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCP4Edb ... /playlists

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Roberta
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by Roberta »

Slow and steady wins the race. Making thin slices is always better with a router. That way if a mistake is made, you still have material left for course corrections.

Roberta
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

denbrlr
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by denbrlr »

I am getting closer to completing the final (i.e. fourth) planking layer on the bottom. The final pieces of pretty wood at the front were tricky. I know others have done this part in various ways but this is the approach I took.

Also, I am starting to collect some of the hardware :)

Lee
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YouTube channel: Boat Builder Lee
Monaco build YouTube playlist: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCP4Edb ... /playlists

denbrlr
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by denbrlr »

I am wondering what size of water pickup I should use. I plan to use a 5.3L or 5.7L V8 engine. Glen-L sells four different water pickups (see the picture). I assume I would need either the 1.5 inch or 1.25 inch. Also, what other places sell these? Please let me know. Thank you.

Lee
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YouTube channel: Boat Builder Lee
Monaco build YouTube playlist: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCP4Edb ... /playlists

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Roberta
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by Roberta »

I use 1-1/2" intake.

Roberta :D
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

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kens
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by kens »

this one has the full line of Buck Algonquin hardware:
https://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/intake-strainers

Whats the advantage(s) of going so large?
I tried that and found the install to be cumbersome and expensive, only to reduce down again for the water pump
if you scroll down to page 35, this one says 1 1/4.
https://www.crusaderengines.com/wp-cont ... 510023.pdf

whats the gain in going big?
Oak..........the juice ain't worth the squeeze :D :shock: :o :)

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Roberta
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by Roberta »

You probably should read that more closely, Ken. It says pick up should be rated for a minimum of 30 gpm. Hose to motor should be 1-1/4" . No where does it state the intake or seacock should be 1-1/4". The seacock should be 1-1/4" at a minimum.

The advantage of going bigger ensures adequate volume at lower speeds and provides additional area should weeds or debris inhibit input. It is always good practice to upsize upstream .

Roberta
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

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