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Re: Mist Miss - Desert Build

Posted: Wed Feb 05, 2020 8:12 pm
by Sarnian
Agree on the fuller bits. For lubrication I dipped the tip of the SB screws in epoxy.... Seemed to work for me. Just make sure you don't need to take em out. :shock:

Re: Mist Miss - Desert Build

Posted: Sat Feb 08, 2020 7:02 pm
by acflynn
Quick update after some work in the shop today. Frame 3 is completed on one side. I have to come up with a better strategy for aligning the 3/4" plywood floor gusset with the two (port/starboard) floor frames - they join together under/over the gusset on the centerline. I did it a bit blind, and I'll have to trim off the excess plywood overage, but it's on there centered and correct.

+1 for the toilet ring wax mentioned earlier. Good solution for $2.39. I let the clamps set up with the epoxy, and as the epoxy was starting to come up the pre-drilled holes, sank the SB screws with the wax. So both wax and (still liquid) epoxy. Hopefully that covers it.

Tom and Sarnian - thanks for the recommendation on the Fuller bits. I'll be looking into those a little down the line, as I won't have any mahogany-to-mahogany joints for a few weeks. I believe only the transom had that thus far on this design.

I'll flip Frame 3 tomorrow and put on the aft gussets, and maybe start assembling and sanding to fit the next frame.

I've been trying to put in a few hours each day, having done a step or two on 11 of the past 14 days. So far, so good!

Re: Mist Miss - Desert Build

Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2020 4:22 pm
by acflynn
Just checking in, since it's been over a week since my last update. Cruising along, really. Not much to report. Already have 32.75 hours in this month, which is a new high for me. Working on it a 1-2 hours each evening has led to steady (if unspectacular) progress and general upbeat feelings, as nothing is too overwhelming.

Still doing the frames. I have the transom and frames 1, 2, 3, 4 complete, and Frame 5 is getting side one epoxied later tonight. I basically have a 3 day process for each frame:
1. Sanding and fitment, securing to layout board, outline keel, chine, sheer and batten notches, pre-drill all areas, trim and finish front side gussets, and then quick epoxy, with weights on afterwards
2. Unsecure frame, flip, repeat pre-drilling and apply aft side gussets, epoxy and clamp down
3. Jigsaw and Oscillating saw work to cut out notches, use Famowood on any areas (screw holes from securing frame members, footer gusset screw heads)

Feeling pretty comfortable (knock on wood) with a repeatable process. Frame 6 and 7 should be the same, though Frame 7 (bow) has a different setup baseline.

I'm starting to consider my encapsulation epoxies. I believe I want to go with a non-amine blush product, so looking at System Three Silver Tip or possibly investigating the West System 207 special clear. For me time is more pressing, and I'm not sure I would want to deal with the (simple remedy for the) amine blush.

Hoping to complete frames, stem, and breasthook by early March.

Re: Mist Miss - Desert Build

Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2020 5:01 pm
by acflynn
Completed the frames!

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Frame 7 Completed!

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Frame 6 - since completed (needed batten, sheer, chine, keel notches when taken)

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A stack of 7 frames and a transom in my overhead storage rack, awaiting encapsulation and setup

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Some of my new clamp acquisitions

Now working on the stem and breasthook. The breasthook should be fairly straightforward, not that large.
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However I did have a few questions on the stem:

Any strategies for epoxying the two sheets of plywood together? This will be the most Poxy-Grip I've used in one session. I wasn't sure if there was a preferred approach in terms of starting points, clamping, etc.

Secondly - is it acceptable to have all of my screws go in from the same side (say the starboard side)? Or should I place them on both sides? I'm guessing the additional weight of the screw heads being on the port or starboard would be offset by a can of soda, so I don't think the boat will list in one direction, and it seems like it would be a hassle to flip to screw in on the backside during the epoxying proces. I don't really need to juggle that as well, do I?

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Whoops! It seems that mistakes just don't seem to be entirely avoidable. Planning to keep the impact of them to a minimum is the key. This is what's left of a 1" SB RS Nail too close to where the chine notch is. Fortunately, there's 11 more on that side of the gusset.

Re: Mist Miss - Desert Build

Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2020 7:25 pm
by denbrlr
Good job getting the frames done. They look good. As far as the stem and which side you screw from, you definitely don't need to worry about the weight of the screw heads. The Monaco plans call for ring shank nails for the stem and that is what I used but screws will work fine. I would put them in on the same side to simplify assembly and clamping. I pounded the nails in on mine and then clamped but remember, you don't want to over clamp and squeeze too much epoxy out. I would do something to help ensure the stem stays straight. Thicker plywood does a good job at staying straight but still something to watch. This is how I clamped mine. The table helped keep it straight. I used a three inch disposable putty knife to spread the epoxy. It really is fairly easy to spread on the stem pieces. Good luck.

Lee

Re: Mist Miss - Desert Build

Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2020 3:32 pm
by Sarnian
Great job! I see a few cordless porter cable tools on your bench. I have really liked mine. So far they’ve been indestructible.

Re: Mist Miss - Desert Build

Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2020 6:34 pm
by Hercdrvr
Keep your fasteners away from the leading edge of the stem so you hit them during fairing.
PoxyGrip would be great for joining the stem halves. And as far as fastening, Screws, nails, or just epoxy only....that stem ain’t coming apart.
Matt B

Re: Mist Miss - Desert Build

Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2020 6:55 pm
by Bill Edmundson
If you can determine where the bow eye will be now, drill the hole while the front edge of the stem is still square.

Bill

Re: Mist Miss - Desert Build

Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2020 7:29 pm
by Sarnian
+1 on Bill’s suggestion

Re: Mist Miss - Desert Build

Posted: Wed Mar 11, 2020 5:41 am
by mrintense
Bill Edmundson wrote:
Tue Mar 10, 2020 6:55 pm
If you can determine where the bow eye will be now, drill the hole while the front edge of the stem is still square.

Bill

I agree with this as it is more difficult to do later. I would add however that be sure you have the one you want first. I bought one of those single threaded rod bow eyes initially and drill the stem for that. Later I had to go back (after the boat was skinned) and plug the hole and redrill for a two threaded rod bow eye after I realized the single thread wasn't going to be strong enough.

Re: Mist Miss - Desert Build

Posted: Wed Mar 11, 2020 6:28 am
by footer
Great suggestion Bill. Wish I had done that first.

Invest in some screw clamps (F-type) too. You’ll find times you’ll need the extra pressure they can produce.

Re: Mist Miss - Desert Build

Posted: Wed Mar 11, 2020 8:14 pm
by acflynn
Thanks, everyone!

Lee, I'll go ahead and do the one side, and keeping the stem straight is a good point as well. Looks like I'll need more wax paper.

Matt, great point on the fasteners - I think the above image of the nail is enough to remind me of that. Was planning on PoxyGrip + the screws recommended in the plan.

Sarnian, I've been a big fan of these Porter Cable 20v cordless tools. The first time I used the impact driver vs. the drill for screws changed my life! I think I've acquired most of the set over the past 3-4 years for birthdays and Father's Day. The orbital sander is new for this project, and works great (previously I only had a much smaller Black & Decker Mouse finish sander). Too bad they don't make a cordless power planer.

Bill / Sarnian / Carl / footer: Regarding the bow eye . . . do I need one?

I hadn't really planned on having a bow eye, and I've read the recent threads these past months about strengthening the original bow eye approach. I kind of thought a smooth clean cutwater would be nice. I was planning on having a bow lift ring at Frame 6, and also a stainless 12" (but bolted through the deck and strongback) bow handle as kind of a "hood ornament". Am I assuming wrong that I'll be able to use the bow lift ring for tying to the trailer?

- Andrew

Re: Mist Miss - Desert Build

Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2020 5:59 am
by TomB
Andrew,

You can use the lift eye for an anchor point...you might want to beef up the deck a bit.

I planned to use the lift eye but am second guessing the decision and I'm back on the fence. I'm concerned about the trailer, goal posts and location of the wench make the trailer longer. The strap with a hook, I don't want the hook bouncing on the deck. Safety cable? Aesthetics, use the lifting eye, practicality, use the a bow eye, I need to decide cause the mental tug-of-war is exhausting.

Tom

Re: Mist Miss - Desert Build

Posted: Fri Mar 13, 2020 6:11 am
by Sarnian
The thing I've grown to really like about the bow eye (a beefy one) is the ability to use that to secure the boat down to the trailer using a straight vertical run of chain and turnbuckle. This really allowed me to make sure the bow of the boat was not bouncing around at all while being trailered. There are quite a few discussions of this set up online - not sure if they are paranoia or not - but I bought into the extra safety of being able to do this. My intention is to trailer a few hundred miles every year - and I will also tie up to a mooring ball for a few days at a time, so a bow eye made sense for me I think.

Lifting eyes are cool...an I really like the "handle" on the bow. My worry (if I'm thinking about this right) is that straps run through the lifting eye, over the deck and down to the trailer would chafe the wood, even with pads under - but this might be an unfounded worry...I really don't know - I'm just kind of guessing. :D

Re: Mist Miss - Desert Build

Posted: Fri Mar 13, 2020 4:18 pm
by acflynn
It's a good point about trailering, as I won't have a home lake. I have no ideas yet on the trailer, and I had envisioned the winch being relatively high, and the line from there to the bow lifting eye to be about parallel. But it does make sense to have downward force on the bow. Here's the bow handle that I have.

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I'm envisioning it being integrated into the stainless molding on the sheer and the cutwater. Is it wrong that the first two pieces that I bought for my boat (this and the bow light) were six months before I even got the plans???