Stiletto from MD

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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Ga-Steve
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Re: Stiletto from MD

Post by Ga-Steve »

The laminated chines should have gone pretty good. Looks like things are moving along. I see the transom is installed as well as the stem bolted down. Steve

keenancr1
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Re: Stiletto from MD

Post by keenancr1 »

Wasnt sure what fuller tappered drill bits were, googled it and it came up with countersink drill bits? Anyway picked some up and it worked perfectly, thank you for the suggestion.

The transom install was a whole ordeal in itself. In hindsight, Went a bit overboard in the transom thickness modification, or wasnt supposed to add motorboard yet. Anyway, it plus transom knee was too thick for the bolts to go all the way through. Ended up about 80% through, so i filled the holes with thickened epoxy to hold the bolts in place, added another brace to connect transom knee to transom and it worked.

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Stiletto from MD

Post by Bill Edmundson »

Go to the box store and buy a wax toilet ring. Stick your screws in that to lubricate them. You still need to predrill the holes, particularly in white oak.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

keenancr1
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Re: Stiletto from MD

Post by keenancr1 »

Ill give that a try, thanks

Ga-Steve
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Re: Stiletto from MD

Post by Ga-Steve »

I even have to pre-drill when driving the bronze nails. Goes through the plywood fine until it hits the oak. Steve

denbrlr
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Re: Stiletto from MD

Post by denbrlr »

Here is what I use to pre-drill most of the screw holes for the smaller sized screws. The bit is not tapered. It also drills the countersink. When attaching two pieces, I first use this countersink bit through the stationary piece and the piece being attached. Then I use a larger drill bit for the piece being attached so the screw threads don't engage with the outer piece when driving the screw.

Lee
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keenancr1
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Re: Stiletto from MD

Post by keenancr1 »

Looks like the between the transom and frame 5 the battens and keel dip down about 1/4 inch.

Half way from frame 5 to 4 and all of 4 to 3 are level.

I am thinking about doing a few strips of about 2 feet of 1/4 plywood on each batten and keel and tapering them down after frame 5. Put a sample piece on and it leveled out.

Second guessing it since it seems like too easy of a fix. Any other ideas or should i just go with the plywood fix?
20200801_213442.jpg

hoodman
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Re: Stiletto from MD

Post by hoodman »

I'm not exactly sure what you're saying but it sounds like you have a dip somewhere in the aft 1/3 of the boat. That area should be as flat possible (relatively speaking) fore and aft. I think we're on the same page there. So yes, glueing in strips of plywood or solid wood and re-fairing is the best course of action at this point.
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
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keenancr1
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Re: Stiletto from MD

Post by keenancr1 »

Thank you, yes that is what the problem is. Ok i will go with the plywood strips to flatten the aft 1/3 of the boat

keenancr1
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Re: Stiletto from MD

Post by keenancr1 »

Im ready to start fairing, and about 60% sure i understand what the goal is and what I need to do.

Tools i have - shinto rasp saw, power planer, small hand planer, belt sander.

Please correct me if im wrong - the goal here is to get the chines and sheer at the same angle as the plywood that will be pressed against it. Looking at the picture below, the chines angle needs to lowered to match the plywood that meets it, and the sheer is only currently connecting at corner and would need to be faired down to more of a triangle shape to match the plywoods slope.
20200803_101051.jpg

JimmY
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Re: Stiletto from MD

Post by JimmY »

You got it. The sheer will be close to, if not, a triangle near the bow on most Glen L boats.

I used a power planer as well, and rigged up a long guide bar that would span from the chine to the sheer. When fairing the sheer, the guide rested on the chine and vice versa. This way the angle was always close when fairing. I would also suggest that you fair small spots (maybe at each frame) to use as guides to gauge how close you are getting with the rest of the fairing.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

keenancr1
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Re: Stiletto from MD

Post by keenancr1 »

Ok, need some more input on fairing at the bow please.

My sides are good, got them paneled everythin matched up perfectly
20200815_011506.jpg
Im working on the fairing for the bow and its not quite lining up right.
20200815_141648.jpg
My understanding, i need to get the bottom half of the chine at more of an angle to match the sheer angle which looks right, and the top half of the chine should angle towards the stem? Is that correct?

Ga-Steve
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Re: Stiletto from MD

Post by Ga-Steve »

From the pic, the sheer looks like you need to fair more. Use a piece of 1/4” ply and lay across the chine and sheer and look for gaps. I had to laminate another piece on my sheer between the forward frames( the planes called for it) because you fair so much, it gets really thin. Like Jimmy said, it will look like a triangle up front. Steve

Ga-Steve
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Re: Stiletto from MD

Post by Ga-Steve »

A good link here
https://youtu.be/k-n5Tqkio90

In this pic, you can see additional meat laminated between frames 4 & 5. You fair so much, you start getting into the bronze screws.
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keenancr1
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Re: Stiletto from MD

Post by keenancr1 »

I see, thanks that does clarify it. I need to angle the sheers more. It looks like the top half of your chines are angled towards the stem as it gets closer to the breasthook, is that correct?

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